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5/30/2009 9:44:40 AM EDT
I am having problems with getting my RLL to run properly in my host gun, it seems to be having light primer strikes.
It will shoot the first round, chamber the second and then have a light strike on that second round.
I am using a .050 thickness paddle, and I have tried a .045 thick paddle that won't work either.

The host gun specs:
11.5" Model 1 Chrome lined barrel
Canadian C7 upper
Spikes lower w/ M60joe select fire FCG
LMT "H" buffer

Any help would be appreciated!
5/30/2009 10:21:31 AM EDT
[#1]
Sounds like bolt bounce - do you have a H2 or 9mm buffer to try?
5/30/2009 10:44:21 AM EDT
[#2]
Quoted:
Sounds like bolt bounce - do you have a H2 or 9mm buffer to try?


+1

Or, install a standard A2 stock with standard buffer-tube and standard buffer and test that set-up.

Then go to CAR stock/buffer-tube with H2/9MM buffer.

Just mentioning this if you don't have another CAR H2/9MM buffer available, but do have a standard A2 set-up so as to keep going until you get the CAR buffer.



5/30/2009 12:26:18 PM EDT
[#3]
Contact M60Joe...he is the God of RLL's and RDIAS's...

Seriously, the dude can make any one of them 'sing'.

FIND HIM!
5/30/2009 1:14:47 PM EDT
[#4]
I have a 9mm buffer I can try, and what is the weights for they different buffers, such as a H2
5/30/2009 5:00:10 PM EDT
[#5]
Congrats on the new RLL. If it passes the timing check it's probably bolt bounce. I had the same symptons when I got mine.  Guys here said it was bolt bounce. It had a H buffer so I tried a H2 and it ran like a champ.  Tried a 9mm buffer for grins but got bolt bounce again. 9mm buffer is heavier than a H2 buffer but for some reason the H2 works better as far as controlling bolt bounce.
5/30/2009 5:35:33 PM EDT
[#6]
.050 sounds a bit thick to me.  I think the thickest paddle that I have is .032 or somewhere around that.  Yours is almost twice as thick.  Have you tried the timing test with the link installed?  This is my first guess.

If you're scratching your head on how to time your rifle...  Here you go.


From www.quarterbore.com
Registered Lightning Link Timing made easy

Provided by Dano523 of AR15.com


With the link in the rifle, hold the trigger back and cock the action, then slowly ride the cocking handle all the way forward/closed. The hammer should not release. Then while still holding the trigger back, pull the cocking handle back 1/2", then release and let the carrier slam forward. The hammer should be released.

The link cams the disconnector free from the hammer, but due to the slight slop in the design, the carrier must slightly free run for the link to work correctly. If you are able to get the link to release while slowly riding the cocking handle down, then the release timing will be too advanced, and the rifle cycle rate will tend to be a bit too fast.

In regards to adjusting timing, you can always just change the paddle/thickness, but to fine tune, removing a bit of metal from the carrier ledge or disconnector contact point is a simpler way, especially if you are installing a modified burst FCG, and want the link to work with it.

The quick way to time for the modified burst kit is to use a thicker paddle and enlarge the notch in the disconnector (right side burst disconnector) to re-time the link to the FCG kit. The center disconnector should never contact the link; it is controlled/camed out of play when the selector is set to auto, and keeps the hammer retained when the selector is set to semi.

Note: Never file the link; it's the high priced item. Always adjust the parts that can be replaced at will from the box of spare parts.


If your rifle passes the timing test, I'd go with everyone else and say it's bolt bounce.  I prefer the Endine Hydraulic buffers but I really don't have any experience with any of the others buffers mentioned.

ETA:  If your rifle is out of time.  Measure the gap between the carrier and the rear lug using a feeler guage.  Then add ".002 to the gap measurement and get M60Joe to make a couple of new paddles for you.
5/31/2009 8:00:53 AM EDT
[#7]
Light hits may be indicative of an overly-thick paddle.

050 is not unheard of - I run that in my 223, but it depends on how the carrier is cut.
6/1/2009 10:15:02 AM EDT
[#8]
From what I understand, original factory paddles came in two thicknesses - ~.030 and ~.050.  I used to use the factory .050 in my Oly 9mm upper.  The .030 variants are more common, and in my experience have been more widely used and useful.
6/6/2009 8:23:41 AM EDT
[#9]
Thanks for the suggestions, I ended up switching uppers to a M4 upper, and went to a thinner paddle, and stuck with the H buffer, and now it runs flawlessly!
6/6/2009 9:50:52 AM EDT
[#10]
My only current LL setup is a 10.5 Bushmaster HBAR on a DPMS lower with a stock DPMS semi carrier and a select fire kit made from a takeoff M16A2 fcg.  With or without a suppressor, it runs flawlessly on any ammo with a .032 paddle.

ETA standard carbine buffer
6/13/2009 8:50:14 AM EDT
[#11]
Personally, I would start by checking the timing.  As "Magoo6541" posted above which is at Quarter Bore's site http://www.quarterbore.com/nfa/lightninglink.html for the procedure.  I would think that with the thick paddle, the hammer is releasing too soon.  It would seem to me that an "H" buffer would be heavy enough to handle bolt bounce.  When I got my 9mm upper after I bought a Colt RR, I had to switch buffers when I switched calibers.  My 5.56X45 uppers would short stroke with a 9mm buffer in my carbine stock.  I found that the MGI RR buffer would work with all the calibers that I had.  Good luck with the problem.

Scott
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