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Posted: 8/14/2008 7:17:27 PM EDT
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OK, I have decided to try my hand at re-loading, I have bought nothing yet. I have been reading a lot. Eventually I will want to re-load the following: .30 luger .38 special/.357 magnum .44 magnum .40 S&W .45 auto .30 carbine .223/5.56 It appears straight cases need less work than necked cases, so I would guess they are easier to load. My question is: Would one cartridge be better to start/learn with than another? If so, which one? |
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.223 Rem, .45 ACP, or .38 Special would be good places to start. There's plenty of load data and they all have very good selections of components available. If I were to teach a class, I believe I would use these three cartridges for examples. .223 Rem is a bottle neck case that can be used as is or dressed up with all the accuracy treatments. You'll get experience lubing the case, sizing, setting minimum headspace, trimming, and so on. .45 ACP is a rimless case that headspaces on the case mouth, and has some tricks up its sleeve with respect to bullet seating depth when using lead semi wadcutters. It's also a reasonably mild shooting cartridge and not intimidating. .38 Special is a rimmed case that will teach fundamentals without added complications as pointed out below. I like this option for the very first cartridge, too. |
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38/357s probably the easier to start with probably due to the sheer number of possible bullet/primer/powder combinations. Since revolvers dont have to cycle, eject cases like a semiautomatic pistol does, you can make mild target loads to flame throwing monster loads. It's hard to get feed problems with a revolver reload. 38spcl brass is cheap, probably the second most common brass out there next to 9mm. You wont have to deal with case trimming, lubing and delubing the cases like you do for rifle, almost never with crimped primer pockets. Thing to watch out for is double charging pistol cases, something you cant do with .223 cause there just isn't the room in the case to hold a double charge. And watch out for squibs and use a firm crimp so the bullet doesnt pop out under recoil |
| I'd find a powder that will mostly fill the case and do what you want it to do. I have used Bullseye for .45 ACP forever. A 4.8 grain charge sits in the bottom of the case. You can easily get a double charge in a .45, which would demolish your gun and maybe you too. So I'm switching to Accuate Arms #5 which is bulkier. I'm a careful reloader, never had any problems, but in the back of my mind I've always been worried about a double charge. |
| +1 on the 38spl. as the first cartridge. Just get a loading block, and check all powder charges under good light, by looking down the cases, before you seat any bullets. That way you will verify that there is the correct amount of powder in each case. A double, or even a slightly over charge will be obvious as will an undercharge or no charge. Do not skip this step, since the case will hold a lot more smokeless powder than is safe. |
I shoot a lot of different sizes. I probably shoot .223 & 9mm the most, because that is what I have the most stockpiled. (Bought cheap) However, if I can reload .30 carbine or .44mag which are expensive (to me) to replace, I would probably start shooting them a lot more. My question was originally to find out from people who re-load if one cartridge is easier to learn on than another. Just in my reading, it seems straight walled cases have fewer steps (aka easier), but since I have never done this, perhaps this is incorrect thinking and it does not matter which cartridge I start with. (but I am leaning towards the .38/.357) Eventually I plan to reload all calibers I shoot. ETA: To be honest, it was actually the price/availabilty of .30 Carbine which got me thinking about re-loading to begin with. Locally, .30 carbine SP are like $39.00/50. |
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