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Posted: 2/21/2012 7:08:42 AM EDT
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Has any one done this or is it even possible to convert a standard lower to a para on??
Just curious Thanks |
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It has been done, but if you have to ask, you won't be able to do it. Quite a bit of machining to do, and unique parts required.
You're better off to buy a stripped or assembled lower with the folding stock already attached. Don't forget, you also need a Para bolt carrier, top cover, and springs. |
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I'm interested as well. I bought the DSA Para kit, and while nice, it doesn't have the markings like my Austrian lower which I crave. So my question is a little more technical. When comparing the 2, the only outside difference I see is the tang on the bottom. -Is the lower tang the only mod? If not what else needs to be done? |
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Quoted: I'm interested as well. I bought the DSA Para kit, and while nice, it doesn't have the markings like my Austrian lower which I crave. So my question is a little more technical. When comparing the 2, the only outside difference I see is the tang on the bottom. -Is the lower tang the only mod? If not what else needs to be done? There was a write up somewhere on FALFiles about it, and I thought you only had to remove the lower tang and two rivets that related to the lower tang. Obviously remove the stock spring tube. |
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ACE sells a converson block that allows a wide range of folding stocks. One is very similar to the standard FAL para folder.
A para lower doesn't have the stock tang and the is an additional cut on the recoil plate to allow clearence for a small tab on the back of the para topcover. Not necessary if you are using an aftermarket topcover loke the DSA scopemount. Go to the FALfiles and do a search for lower para cut. (it might be here also). Not to be confused with the upper para cut. Good luck. |
| You don't have to remove the rivets on a standard lower to make it work. I simply cut off the tang on the lower flush with the back and dremeled out material needed until the anti-rotational tab on the para stock fit flush with lower. Then I took a cutoff wheel and marked my lines for the para cut on the recoil plate and hogged it out with a rotary stone. Took no more than 20 minutes. |
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Quoted:
You don't have to remove the rivets on a standard lower to make it work. I simply cut off the tang on the lower flush with the back and dremeled out material needed until the anti-rotational tab on the para stock fit flush with lower. Then I took a cutoff wheel and marked my lines for the para cut on the recoil plate and hogged it out with a rotary stone. Took no more than 20 minutes. Is there any way you could get pics of this?? Thanks |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
You don't have to remove the rivets on a standard lower to make it work. I simply cut off the tang on the lower flush with the back and dremeled out material needed until the anti-rotational tab on the para stock fit flush with lower. Then I took a cutoff wheel and marked my lines for the para cut on the recoil plate and hogged it out with a rotary stone. Took no more than 20 minutes. Is there any way you could get pics of this?? Thanks I'll try and take some when I get off from work. |
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Quoted: You don't have to remove the rivets on a standard lower to make it work. I simply cut off the tang on the lower flush with the back and dremeled out material needed until the anti-rotational tab on the para stock fit flush with lower. Then I took a cutoff wheel and marked my lines for the para cut on the recoil plate and hogged it out with a rotary stone. Took no more than 20 minutes. thi was going to be my plan of attack to be honest. |
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Quoted: It is a good plan. Quoted: You don't have to remove the rivets on a standard lower to make it work. I simply cut off the tang on the lower flush with the back and dremeled out material needed until the anti-rotational tab on the para stock fit flush with lower. Then I took a cutoff wheel and marked my lines for the para cut on the recoil plate and hogged it out with a rotary stone. Took no more than 20 minutes. thi was going to be my plan of attack to be honest. |
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