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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Powder Coated 300 BlackOut (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 5/22/2016 2:22:58 AM EDT
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I finally took the plunge. I casted these up awhile ago, but just finally got around to coating them.
I chose the power coat method. I have this small tumbler I don't use anymore, so it got repurposed. 
Getting them little buggers to stand up on the tray can be a challenge. 
Into the toaster for 20 minutes at 400*. 
Nice and shiny. 
Hammer test. 
Gas checking. 
Sizing to .309". I need to slug my barrel, but I think this will work for the first batch. Maybe I need a .310",but we'll see. 
Ready to load. 
I know that Harbor Frieght red is the only coating they make that works, So I tried some Sherwin Williams Mirror Black on a few, I think it will work. I got several other colors, that I may try, Thinking I might go Wiederlader, and drill up a board with some foil, and shoot them with My gun. 
All in all, I think it went really well for My first foray into it. Dave |
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This powder coating thing is a whole new addiction. and I blame dryflash for pushing me over the edge lol.
Looking real good Dave. I've been using Harbor Freight red and also some custom colors from Prismatic Powders down in Oregon. You guys are tempting me to try a 300BLK mold and powder coated gas checked bullets. |
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http://www.midwayusa.com/product/464750/lee-6-cavity-bullet-mold-c312-155-2r-762x39mm-312-diameter-155-grain-2-ogive-radius-gas-check This mold is what I use for 300 blk, sized .310 and 7.62x39 sized .312. I believe what Dave's using also.  I use 2400 in 7.62x39 and am working on a 2400 load in 300 blk. No data for this load so I'm working up slowly, so far load shoots ok but doesn't function. I don't remember who first brought powder coating to this forum, but it's easy, cheap, and a great technique if your tired of the lube mess and leading. |
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For 300 subs, there is no reason for gas check if u PC. Supers may not even need. I would check accuracy between gas check vs no gas check bullet if your mold is designed for gas check.
I ran 45-70 bullets w and w/out gas check using pistol powder velocities and saw no difference in accuracy so I am leaving it off. For anyone looking to get a new mold for 300BO subs.. I would buy PB mold. |
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Looks very nice.
More power to you plucking guys, you have the patience of a Saint. I run large cook off batches of at least 1K. I myself can not get into plucking bullets out with tweezers one by one and placing them on a pan. The eventual Domino effect will destroy me along with little to no patience. I shake and bake then dump on hardware cloth, one coat comes out great and I can get 180-200 pistol bullets in one bake. If you want to try different colors, I recommend Smoke4320 over at castboolits. It will cost you about three times the cost of the HF powder coat paint @ $17.50/lb, but you can get 4 colors in 1/4 lbs bags. I'm still on my 1/4lb color after 3k coatings. Since using Smoke4320's powder, the HF powder seems like rock salt. The difference is night and day. Some of Smoke4320's colors mixed with HF red, all once ASBB dry tumbled and dumped on hardware cloth. 
Some pistol bullets after bake cooling. 
.300AAC for a friend I baked. 
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Looks very nice. That first pic reminds me of an Easter basket. Cool colors. 
I coat like you do, but just pick them out with a little powder on the fingers of a glove, and just toss them on parchment paper. I was having too many stickers/wire marks with the hardware cloth. |
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Yeah, those are the same mold as Dryflash.
When I get to pistol, I'll probably use the screen method. As far as sizing diameter, I got a pound of known, guaranteed pure lead from the owner of the LGS. I'm going to cast something to slug my barrels with, but the only thing I can think of is a 9MM mould. Anyone got a better idea? I hope .309" isn't too small, if it doesn't work, ohh well, I'll just melt them down and start over.
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Dryflash, how are You sizing to .310", I looked, and it doesn't seem that Lee makes a .310" sizing kit.
Are you using something else? Also, I need to get a 6 cavity 9MM mould, thinking about one with a RN vs TC. RN mould TC mould I'll be shooting through a Sig P226, and a S&W model 59, any reason one would better then the other? I know they both like the Blue Bullets RN with no problems. |
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As far as sizing diameter, I got a pound of known, guaranteed pure lead from the owner of the LGS. I'm going to cast something to slug my barrels with, but the only thing I can think of is a 9MM mould. Anyone got a better idea? There is a method you can look for on cast boolits, they fill a sized case with lead, let harden, then place your soft lead projectile and filled case into the chamber. Using a tight fitting rod, you ram the soft lead projectile into the filled case to get a good view of your chamber and throat/rifiling size. |
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Dryflash, how are You sizing to .310", I looked, and it doesn't seem that Lee makes a .310" sizing kit. These work well, and you are not limited to the Lee sizes (But Lee can be special ordered, or a tighter model opened up at home) NOE |
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Quoted: Dryflash, how are You sizing to .310", I looked, and it doesn't seem that Lee makes a .310" sizing kit. Are you using something else? Also, I need to get a 6 cavity 9MM mould, thinking about one with a RN vs TC. RN mould TC mould I'll be shooting through a Sig P226, and a S&W model 59, any reason one would better then the other? I know they both like the Blue Bullets RN with no problems. None of my Lee sizers sized bullets as marked. They were all .001 to .002 smaller than marked. I suggest you measure your sized bullets and see what they really measure. No problem. 30 caliber, get a 4 inch piece of 1/4 dowel. Cut the end in the middle (hacksaw fine tooth (32) blade) about 3/4 inch. Wind a 3/4 wide strip of 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper on dowel using the slot to keep sandpaper from slipping. Chuck in drill. If you wound it the wrong direction, you will know. Wind in direction of drill rotation. Insert in die and run it for about 30 seconds or so. Size a reject bullet with the die and measure bullet diameter. Keep going until you get the diameter you want. Measure often, you can't put metal back. That's how you get a .310 sizing die. Sorta like turning down a sizing ball to get better neck tension only in reverse. eta, I have the 120 gr TC, it casts pretty bullets. Yesterday and today I loaded my first PC loads with them. I used 1.10 for my OAL and sized these bullets .356. |
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There is a method you can look for on cast boolits, they fill a sized case with lead, let harden, then place your soft lead projectile and filled case into the chamber. Using a tight fitting rod, you ram the soft lead projectile into the filled case to get a good view of your chamber and throat/rifiling size. Quoted:
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As far as sizing diameter, I got a pound of known, guaranteed pure lead from the owner of the LGS. I'm going to cast something to slug my barrels with, but the only thing I can think of is a 9MM mould. Anyone got a better idea? There is a method you can look for on cast boolits, they fill a sized case with lead, let harden, then place your soft lead projectile and filled case into the chamber. Using a tight fitting rod, you ram the soft lead projectile into the filled case to get a good view of your chamber and throat/rifiling size. I'll have to look that up, Thank You. Dryflash, I have the .311 and .309 sizers, I ran a few through the .311, and they did come out .311, on My .309, I'm getting .3085-.309. I'll have to slug the barrel and see where its at. |
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Typically any bullets I pc/load in rifle calibers I don't use a gas check on any load that under 25,000psi/1800fps.
When I do use a gas check on pc'd bullets I use a drop of super glue inside the gas check before I put it on. Slugging your bbl will only tell you so much. A chronograph will tell you more about your bbl/load combo than slugging the bbl will. Take the same load and load 10 rounds of .309 bullets and then .311 bullets. If there's no difference in velocity then both bullet diameters are sealing the bbl in that loads pressure range. If the .311 bullets have a higher velocity then you'll know to size them to .311 For some reason the pc'd bullets have been more forgiving for me in 2 different 308's 1 bbl is a 1 in 10, the other is a 1 in 11. With both bbl's I had to size traditional cast/lubed bullets to .311 to get any performance/accuracy out of them. When I pc'd the same cast bullets I found that a .309 bullet worked fine. A classic example, don't know what it is with the 311291 bullet design. Never could push them real hard or accuracy would fall off. 10-shot group from a 308 @ 50yds using traditional cast/lubed bullets sized to .311 and using a gas check. 
Same load/bullet/rifle/etc. This time the bullet was pc'd, no gas check and sized to .309. No loss in accuracy and a 60+fps gain in velocity. 
Why all the fuss over .309 vs .311??? Because when I load a .309 bullet I can use a standard reloading expander ball (.306) in the 30cal dies that I use for the jacketed .308 bullets. When I load .311 bullets I used a expander ball (.310) that is designed for a british 303. The .310 expander ball tended to produce allot more accurate loads than the smaller traditional .306 expander. Pc'd bullets make excellent plinking ammo, one of my favorite bullets that allot of people over look anymore. They were designed for the 30 carbine and are very accurate with most powders/loads in the 1600fps/1700fps range. Typical 10-shot 50yds accuracy from this pc'd bullet with no gas check and sized to .309 
Enjoy your pc'd bullets, they bring allot to the table. |
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http://www.midwayusa.com/product/464750/lee-6-cavity-bullet-mold-c312-155-2r-762x39mm-312-diameter-155-grain-2-ogive-radius-gas-check This mold is what I use for 300 blk, sized .310 and 7.62x39 sized .312. I believe what Dave's using also. <a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/user/dryflash3/media/Powder%20Coat/P1010907_zpsmrn6lrem.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/Powder%20Coat/P1010907_zpsmrn6lrem.jpg</a> I swear this forum is going to be the death of me. My wife's gonna kill me when she finds out I want to start casting. 
Dryflash3, is that your 200grn subsonic bullet? If so, can you tell me what mold that is? I think I'm going to get into this. 9mm, 45acp, 300 Blackout, and maybe for a .32-40 I haven't shot yet. I registered over at the cast boolits site yesterday and have begun reading and researching. I hope to secure my molds and pouring tools before things get nutty this fall. I don't know that I will be casting any time soon, but I will be learning and gathering materials. Thanks guys, for pushing me over the edge!
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Quoted: I swear this forum is going to be the death of me. My wife's gonna kill me when she finds out I want to start casting. Dryflash3, is that your 200grn subsonic bullet? If so, can you tell me what mold that is? I think I'm going to get into this. 9mm, 45acp, 300 Blackout, and maybe for a .32-40 I haven't shot yet. I registered over at the cast boolits site yesterday and have begun reading and researching. I hope to secure my molds and pouring tools before things get nutty this fall. I don't know that I will be casting any time soon, but I will be learning and gathering materials. Thanks guys, for pushing me over the edge! Quoted: Quoted: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/464750/lee-6-cavity-bullet-mold-c312-155-2r-762x39mm-312-diameter-155-grain-2-ogive-radius-gas-check This mold is what I use for 300 blk, sized .310 and 7.62x39 sized .312. I believe what Dave's using also. <a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/user/dryflash3/media/Powder%20Coat/P1010907_zpsmrn6lrem.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/Powder%20Coat/P1010907_zpsmrn6lrem.jpg</a> I swear this forum is going to be the death of me. My wife's gonna kill me when she finds out I want to start casting. Dryflash3, is that your 200grn subsonic bullet? If so, can you tell me what mold that is? I think I'm going to get into this. 9mm, 45acp, 300 Blackout, and maybe for a .32-40 I haven't shot yet. I registered over at the cast boolits site yesterday and have begun reading and researching. I hope to secure my molds and pouring tools before things get nutty this fall. I don't know that I will be casting any time soon, but I will be learning and gathering materials. Thanks guys, for pushing me over the edge! Lee 200 gr RN. |
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So, here is My question, beings a beginner to the cast boollit thing, I need to ask about sizing.
The mould I'm using is a .312 diameter mould. This Let's assume My barrel, is actually .308" in diameter, is it ok to stuff a .311" cast, sized bullet into it? From what You are saying 3211, I should just size some at .309", and .311" with the same load, and see which bullet has more velocity, i.e., which bullet seals the barrel better? As far as to gas check or not, for now I am just going to gas check My rifle bullets. Once I get alittle more skilled at it, I may go unchecked, but for now I just think it's one less thing to worry about. |
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So, here is My question, beings a beginner to the cast boollit thing, I need to ask about sizing. The mould I'm using is a .312 diameter mould. This . Depending on your alloy, you might not throw 312 from that mold. What velocity are you aiming for? This will determine your alloy selection. But you are correct, sizing is more important than alloy type. If mild loads are the goal, are you sure on the checks? PC is cheaper, and the checks won't come off in a suppressor. |
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Looks very nice. More power to you plucking guys, you have the patience of a Saint. I run large cook off batches of at least 1K. I myself can not get into plucking bullets out with tweezers one by one and placing them on a pan. The eventual Domino effect will destroy me along with little to no patience. I shake and bake then dump on hardware cloth, one coat comes out great and I can get 180-200 pistol bullets in one bake. If you want to try different colors, I recommend Smoke4320 over at castboolits. It will cost you about three times the cost of the HF powder coat paint @ $17.50/lb, but you can get 4 colors in 1/4 lbs bags. I'm still on my 1/4lb color after 3k coatings. Since using Smoke4320's powder, the HF powder seems like rock salt. The difference is night and day. Some of Smoke4320's colors mixed with HF red, all once ASBB dry tumbled and dumped on hardware cloth. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1wjfJVLJB08/VgMMFrIeWWI/AAAAAAAAEZ0/-DXNDuEL5nU1abtP2XrsEAhEtMsh5S9OQCHM/s1280/upload_-1 Some pistol bullets after bake cooling. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--zHd1u3Dk8g/VfX0984hFAI/AAAAAAAAEY0/SR3Pfelfq4IC0ojgSihc2jD6yKMFYOTsACHM/s1280/upload_-1 .300AAC for a friend I baked. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ze6BUHpA4VU/ViFog8TkYiI/AAAAAAAAHwk/vatS9EnbfIUB1CjgFqe787c1KvaCREZRQCHM/s1280/20151016_171318.jpg This is more speaking my language... I wouldn't have nearly the time needed to handle each bullet individually. |
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The boollits I cast up, after powder coating, went through the .309" fairly easy, .311" took a little more resistance.
The batch of lead I mixed up came out pretty hard. I don't plan on pushing them too hard at first, 300 BO plinkers, get it going, l plan moving to .223 PC Gaschecked, 100yard accuracy. To Me, this is just something fun to do to get set for when I get back to it. |
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So, here is My question, beings a beginner to the cast boollit thing, I need to ask about sizing. The mould I'm using is a .312 diameter mould. This Let's assume My barrel, is actually .308" in diameter, is it ok to stuff a .311" cast, sized bullet into it? From what You are saying 3211, I should just size some at .309", and .311" with the same load, and see which bullet has more velocity, i.e., which bullet seals the barrel better? Absolutely!!! A lot of different things go into cast bullets and how they function. Expansion, elasticity of the alloy and bullet skidding are a couple of things that can and will affect your cast/pc'd bullet. As far as to gas check or not, for now I am just going to gas check My rifle bullets. Once I get alittle more skilled at it, I may go unchecked, but for now I just think it's one less thing to worry about. |
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So, I thought I'd throw this out there.
I just opened up my Lyman 50th to the 300 BO section for the first time, very nice info. I'm really liking the Lyman 50th, one thing I notice is that the barrel length used in a lot of the tests are more realistic to what people are shooting. I was looking for my 150gr cast PC'ed bullets, and found that there is a load listed for H335 for a 160gr bullet. My cast, PC'ed, gas checked bullets are weighing in around 157-158gr. Which could be pretty cool if it works, I got a good supply of H335 and WC844, plus a cast bullet and Wolf primers, could be a very economical load. |
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So, I thought I'd throw this out there. I just opened up my Lyman 50th to the 300 BO section for the first time, very nice info. I'm really liking the Lyman 50th, one thing I notice is that the barrel length used in a lot of the tests are more realistic to what people are shooting. I was looking for my 150gr cast PC'ed bullets, and found that there is a load listed for H335 for a 160gr bullet. My cast, PC'ed, gas checked bullets are weighing in around 157-158gr. Which could be pretty cool if it works, I got a good supply of H335 and WC844, plus a cast bullet and Wolf primers, could be a very economical load. You are planning to shoot that load out of a bolt action right? If not it won't cycle an AR. |
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According to Lyman, it was tested in an Olympic Arms with an AR Stoner 16" barrel.
IDK, worth a try, I got Lil Gun and W296 as well. I was surprised to see H335 listed. 15.5gr is listed as Min and 20.0gr is listed as max. Worth a few bullets and powder to try it. |
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Unless it was causing some kind of fit issue in your chamber, why would you be worried about .001" of cast bullet diameter.
I shoot .311" (well like dryflash3 posted my Lee .311" push through die is a little less than .311) but anyway I shoot .311" cast bullets from all of my .308s including my 7.5x54 MAS which is a little smaller than. 308" and they work great. Just look at the trends on the cast bullet forums. Many are now using .358" in 9mms regardless of bore size. Cast bullets are very user friendly when on the large side. Being too small with cast is where you'll get the most problems. Motor |
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Powder coating used to be a PITA with powder waste/clumping/ it all over the place trying to tumble coat the bullets in a tumble, until I came across this (pre-heat method).
Hence the bullets pre-heated at 140* for about 4 mins, has the powder coating bonding/sticking to bullet enough that once you just rack and shake the bullets before placing in the oven, all the excess power coating shakes off to leave a smooth pre bake coat that will not fall off if you move the bullets, and the exesss powder ready to re-use on the next batch. Plus, with sizing the bullets after powder coating, you don't need to stand them all on their tails while baking. Hence the flat part of the bullet where it sitting on the rack and you might have a line, those slight lines get ironed out via the sizer instead. And the spatula slap method to remove them from the rack after baking, works like a charm as well. 
As for large batches (1plus), works great is you have a few wire screens baskets, and way quicker that way. You just leave the oven at 140, and work through your bullets to get then pre-heat coated and in the baskets, and them once you have the all baskets with coated bullets ready to bake, then move into the batch baking as your working through the screens. |
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I wasn't so much worried about as I just didn't know. This is really My first foray into shooting my own cast boolits.
Just making sure before I go. Easier to ask then to screw up and have bad things happen. 
So, while I'm at it, what would happen if you stuffed a .311" FMJ into a .308" bore? Like I think AK's are a .311 vs a standard .308 Winchester? |
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I wasn't so much worried about as I just didn't know. This is really My first foray into shooting my own cast boolits. Just making sure before I go. Easier to ask then to screw up and have bad things happen.
So, while I'm at it, what would happen if you stuffed a .311" FMJ into a .308" bore? Like I think AK's are a .311 vs a standard .308 Winchester? Probably a little flatter primer than usual. The army did all sorts of crazy experiments in the WW II era like shooting 8mm Mouser in 30-06. I read that they even shot 8mms from a 7mm. In all of testing they didn't have a single major kaboom. Some stuck bolts and maybe a barrel bulge is all. Remember the Finns made a 7.62x53R. These rifles have .308" groove diameter. Even so you never see any WARNINGS against shooting Russian 54R ammo from them. Yes you will see stuff like "be careful because pressure can be a little higher" but no firm do not use it. My M39s are .3105 to .3115 and I shoot .312" jacketed bullets from them. .3105" is the norm for the M39 yet Hornady used one to develop their data for .312" bullets. That should tell you something. Motor |
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Yeah, those are the same mold as Dryflash. When I get to pistol, I'll probably use the screen method. As far as sizing diameter, I got a pound of known, guaranteed pure lead from the owner of the LGS. I'm going to cast something to slug my barrels with, but the only thing I can think of is a 9MM mould. Anyone got a better idea? I hope .309" isn't too small, if it doesn't work, ohh well, I'll just melt them down and start over. I've used Water Gremlin bullet-shaped sinkers to slug .30 caliber-ish barrels. I can't remember which size I used though... It worked very well. |
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So, I am just getting around to loading these up.
I'm using the Lee 312-155-2R, PC'ed with gas check, for this load I just sized it in the .311" push through sizer, averaging just a little under that. Looking for a load, Lyman 50th, Hornady 9th and Lyman cast lead book have nothing for the powders I have on hand. Looking to use Lil' Gun, or W-296. Memory serves Me right, I think more towards the Lil Gun load for the over 150gr weights. I found THIS thread over at Cast Boolits. From all of my reading it seems like a lot of people are around 15.0 to 16.0gr of Lil Gun, and about the same from W-296. LC brass, #41 primer, loaded to mag length, start at 13.5gr and work up to15.0 to 15.5gr of Lil Gun seem like a safe starting point? Thanks. Dave |
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Quoted: So, I am just getting around to loading these up. I'm using the Lee 312-155-2R, PC'ed with gas check, for this load I just sized it in the .311" push through sizer, averaging just a little under that. Looking for a load, Lyman 50th, Hornady 9th and Lyman cast lead book have nothing for the powders I have on hand. Looking to use Lil' Gun, or W-296. Memory serves Me right, I think more towards the Lil Gun load for the over 150gr weights. I found THIS thread over at Cast Boolits. From all of my reading it seems like a lot of people are around 15.0 to 16.0gr of Lil Gun, and about the same from W-296. LC brass, #41 primer, loaded to mag length, start at 13.5gr and work up to15.0 to 15.5gr of Lil Gun seem like a safe starting point? Thanks. Dave Don't load to mag length. Use the .250 ogive rule for bullets 180 gr and lighter. |
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Probably a little flatter primer than usual. The army did all sorts of crazy experiments in the WW II era like shooting 8mm Mouser in 30-06. I read that they even shot 8mms from a 7mm. In all of testing they didn't have a single major kaboom. Some stuck bolts and maybe a barrel bulge is all. Remember the Finns made a 7.62x53R. These rifles have .308" groove diameter. Even so you never see any WARNINGS against shooting Russian 54R ammo from them. Yes you will see stuff like "be careful because pressure can be a little higher" but no firm do not use it. My M39s are .3105 to .3115 and I shoot .312" jacketed bullets from them. .3105" is the norm for the M39 yet Hornady used one to develop their data for .312" bullets. That should tell you something. Motor Quoted:
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I wasn't so much worried about as I just didn't know. This is really My first foray into shooting my own cast boolits. Just making sure before I go. Easier to ask then to screw up and have bad things happen.
So, while I'm at it, what would happen if you stuffed a .311" FMJ into a .308" bore? Like I think AK's are a .311 vs a standard .308 Winchester? Probably a little flatter primer than usual. The army did all sorts of crazy experiments in the WW II era like shooting 8mm Mouser in 30-06. I read that they even shot 8mms from a 7mm. In all of testing they didn't have a single major kaboom. Some stuck bolts and maybe a barrel bulge is all. Remember the Finns made a 7.62x53R. These rifles have .308" groove diameter. Even so you never see any WARNINGS against shooting Russian 54R ammo from them. Yes you will see stuff like "be careful because pressure can be a little higher" but no firm do not use it. My M39s are .3105 to .3115 and I shoot .312" jacketed bullets from them. .3105" is the norm for the M39 yet Hornady used one to develop their data for .312" bullets. That should tell you something. Motor Motor is 100% right on this about WW2 testing. More recently, Arfcomer "Old Painless" / (Box-O-Truth) re-confirmed the tests from WW2 - a slightly larger bullet has negligible effect on peak chamber pressure. I believe P. O. Ackley also conducted expiraments with oversized rifle bullets and did not encounter significant pressure increases. If we are discussing approximately .311 size bullets in a 308 bore, remember that at one time, both Ruger's "Mini 30" and Colts 7.62x39mm Sporter rifle both used barrels with a .308 bore, but a long gradual throat in order to accommodate any sort of ammo the shooter might select. There were never pressure issues associated with these barrels AFAIK. |
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I've used Water Gremlin bullet-shaped sinkers to slug .30 caliber-ish barrels. I can't remember which size I used though... It worked very well. It's the 1/8 size Water Gremlin slip sinkers. 
They're apparently plain lead, and the hollow base makes it fairly easy to drive these down a barrel. |
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Looks very nice. More power to you plucking guys, you have the patience of a Saint. I run large cook off batches of at least 1K. I myself can not get into plucking bullets out with tweezers one by one and placing them on a pan. The eventual Domino effect will destroy me along with little to no patience. I shake and bake then dump on hardware cloth, one coat comes out great and I can get 180-200 pistol bullets in one bake. If you want to try different colors, I recommend Smoke4320 over at castboolits. It will cost you about three times the cost of the HF powder coat paint @ $17.50/lb, but you can get 4 colors in 1/4 lbs bags. I'm still on my 1/4lb color after 3k coatings. Since using Smoke4320's powder, the HF powder seems like rock salt. The difference is night and day. Some of Smoke4320's colors mixed with HF red, all once ASBB dry tumbled and dumped on hardware cloth. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1wjfJVLJB08/VgMMFrIeWWI/AAAAAAAAEZ0/-DXNDuEL5nU1abtP2XrsEAhEtMsh5S9OQCHM/s1280/upload_-1 Some pistol bullets after bake cooling. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--zHd1u3Dk8g/VfX0984hFAI/AAAAAAAAEY0/SR3Pfelfq4IC0ojgSihc2jD6yKMFYOTsACHM/s1280/upload_-1 .300AAC for a friend I baked. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ze6BUHpA4VU/ViFog8TkYiI/AAAAAAAAHwk/vatS9EnbfIUB1CjgFqe787c1KvaCREZRQCHM/s1280/20151016_171318.jpg You have a PM, sir..... |
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Don't load to mag length. Use the .250 ogive rule for bullets 180 gr and lighter. So I got a few bullets marked and cases expanded, seated one to the rib and one to the crimp groove. 
The one seated to the crimp groove is on the bottom, the one seated to the rib is on top. They seem awfully short seated to the rib, measure 2.016" seated to the crimp groove, it feeds just fine. 
I'd think being able to use the CG would be nice, kinda figure that might be why LEE put it there? What to do? |
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A tad shorter, as in "to the crimp groove" in your picture, should be fine. You're trying to get the magazine rib to direct the bullet toward the feed ramps, so a little short should work.
No experience with these specific bullets, but I did get 110 grain FMJ RN .30 Carbine bullets to feed reliably using this seating depth technique. I don't have the numbers handy, but these bullets were seated to a really short COAL, and they worked fine. |
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I got the W296 ladder done and seated, I need to FCD them and then try to Flare some more cases for the Lil' Gun load. But ran out of steam, maybe after dinner.
But I did load up 5 of the 2.016' OAL, and they fed and ejected fine. I was going to cast up a few more and PC them black for the Lil' Gun load, then I thought not to, as it could be a variable. So I decided to stick with the red for now. |
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That seems like quite a difference, 0.055". I just went down and measured a couple random pieces of brass, and got 1.359-60".
I'm hoping to run up to the range and shoot this test, then stop back in town for an apt tomorrow. I think I'll do that before loading up the Lil' Gun test. Now that I look at my pics up above, I might have them switched around. The one seated to the crimp groove is on top, rib length is below. |
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Quoted:
A tad shorter, as in "to the crimp groove" in your picture, should be fine. You're trying to get the magazine rib to direct the bullet toward the feed ramps, so a little short should work. No experience with these specific bullets, but I did get 110 grain FMJ RN .30 Carbine bullets to feed reliably using this seating depth technique. I don't have the numbers handy, but these bullets were seated to a really short COAL, and they worked fine. I looked it up: my .30 Carbine bullets were seated for a COAL of 1.93", and as I said, they worked fine. Don't get hung up on the actual length of the round, but pay attention to how the magazine ribs will guide the round into the chamber. |
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Dave. What is your gas check question? I use the Lee 160gr 2R TL in a few different calibers and powder coated with HF red.
I shoot it without gas check for velocities below 1500 fps. It shoots just fine for me with or without the gas check. I'm getting ready to use these in 300 BO as well and intended to try them without the gas check. My Hornady copper checks fit good. I don't have any hesitation seating them below the case neck. I think it's rather silly to suggest that they could be stripped off of the bullet when it enters the neck. The neck has to expand from the pressure and does so the instant the pressure rises plus wouldn't the pressure also be pushing against the bottom of the bullet/gas check? Motor |
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Well, I got to the range alright.
I got there, set up, shot a few leftovers from some S&B, Z-max, and some of my 150gr Lil' Gun. Then I went to shoot the ladder. I had one bullet that got a little shaved when I didn't have it straight when I seated it. from the first charge weight 13.0gr. So, I figured what the hell, I'll just load it single in the mag and pop it off. I didn't expect that charge weight to cycle. But it fed just fine, and it did cycle and locked the bolt back.  From what all I've read, I really didn't think it would, had a pretty good pop to it as well.
I decided to put the Magnetospeed on and chrono the test as well, I went to convert the Magnetospeed from clamp-on to Picatinny rail, which I have to use for the BO rifle, I stripped the bolt on the clamp. It's a little tiny .050 allen head and My hands ain't all that great, I didn't have the key in there well enough or whatever. Dicked around with that till I got too frustrated, and packed it in. I stopped at the hardware store and got some more bolts, Phillips head. I will have to drill the head off and remove it tomorrow. 
I just felt like I should wait and get chrono info as well as accuracy, kind of a waste to not get both at the same time. It was fairly accurate, bottom right target. 
Try to fix up the Magnetospeed in the morning and go back up there tomorrow. 
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Quoted:
Dave. What is your gas check question? I use the Lee 160gr 2R TL in a few different calibers and powder coated with HF red. I shoot it without gas check for velocities below 1500 fps. It shoots just fine for me with or without the gas check. I'm getting ready to use these in 300 BO as well and intended to try them without the gas check. My Hornady copper checks fit good. I don't have any hesitation seating them below the case neck. I think it's rather silly to suggest that they could be stripped off of the bullet when it enters the neck. The neck has to expand from the pressure and does so the instant the pressure rises plus wouldn't the pressure also be pushing against the bottom of the bullet/gas check? Motor I don't really have a gas check question, I just decided to use them first time out. Once I get this load to work, I'll try removing them if it works below 1500 FPS. |
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