Armory Sponsor
Posted: 1/18/2011 4:04:14 AM EDT
|
What should be done to help the paint take and cure beforehand?
Thanks! |
|
Degrease
Pre-warm paint can and object to be painted, such as warming in the sun on a hot day. Don't overheat the paint can - it will blow up. 
Try to paint on a warm, dry day with no wind - low humidity is a plus After paint dries, cure by heating object to within 50 degrees of the max. heat rating for the paint, being sure not to overheat polymer parts or parts containing springs. Keep it hot for an hour. |
| check their website...they have some painting tips on there. mostly just degreasing is all you need to do. depends on the material being painted. |
| Degreasing per directions. I didn't do it on mine, and the paint has already worn off significantly faster there. I'm quite happy with the result, since that's what I wanted to see happen, but if you want to keep the paint on there, degrease it, then do lots and lots of thin coats. |
|
I usually boil the parts if small enough. If not I spray with brake cleaner (wipe down with acetone for plastics) and heat with a blowdryer or heat gun.
After I hang in the walk in shower with a space heater for a few hours. The oven puts off fumes according to the wife. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
| All above ideas are good ideas. Will work too. Just add scuffing up the part you are about to paint. An automotive scuff pad is the best choice. You can go to most autoparts stores and go to the autobody section. Get a red or grey scotch-brite pad. Red would be the best. Rub it on the part till dull, clean with alcohol and paint. You can even you an adhesive promoter as well. And depending on what you are painting, you can use a flat clear coat to aid in keeping the paint from coming off easily, mainly it would protect it from cleaning solvents. At least it would help, protect it. |
|
Quoted:
I just use non-chlorinated brake cleaner after a scotch bright green pad followed with a hot hot water rinse (to aid in drying). after the brake cleaner, and from then on, the parts get touched with nitrile gloves, tongs or hangers to keep them clean and oil free. spray several light coats vs on or two heavy coats and start with your lightest color and move to your darkest color, or you will tint the lighter colors with the darker paint. I would recommend practicing on a toy gun first to figure out masking, distance, how you hold the can, stenciling, and make sure your idea actually looks good or how you thought it would, before you get to the real deal and have a major awe crap moment with your $1500 rifle. http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a13/schitzangiggles/0326000848a.jpg http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a13/schitzangiggles/DSC01120.jpg http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a13/schitzangiggles/DSC01122.jpg http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a13/schitzangiggles/DSC01121.jpg ETA: I was going to show the pics from 50ft away, but all you see is grass, no gun, it blends that good. Me likey 
|
| Krylon camo paint doesnt need curing it dries in 15 minutes and is make for camo applications on plastic,metal and wood.What I have found though is krylon camo black when baked on 200 degrees for 45 minutes get like the look and feel of anodizing and it becomes more abrasion resistant after baking. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
I just use non-chlorinated brake cleaner after a scotch bright green pad followed with a hot hot water rinse (to aid in drying). after the brake cleaner, and from then on, the parts get touched with nitrile gloves, tongs or hangers to keep them clean and oil free. spray several light coats vs on or two heavy coats and start with your lightest color and move to your darkest color, or you will tint the lighter colors with the darker paint. I would recommend practicing on a toy gun first to figure out masking, distance, how you hold the can, stenciling, and make sure your idea actually looks good or how you thought it would, before you get to the real deal and have a major awe crap moment with your $1500 rifle. http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a13/schitzangiggles/0326000848a.jpg http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a13/schitzangiggles/DSC01120.jpg http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a13/schitzangiggles/DSC01122.jpg http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a13/schitzangiggles/DSC01121.jpg ETA: I was going to show the pics from 50ft away, but all you see is grass, no gun, it blends that good. Me likey Thanks 
|
I just use non-chlorinated brake cleaner after a scotch bright green pad followed with a hot hot water rinse (to aid in drying). after the brake cleaner, and from then on, the parts get touched with nitrile gloves, tongs or hangers to keep them clean and oil free. spray several light coats vs on or two heavy coats and start with your lightest color and move to your darkest color, or you will tint the lighter colors with the darker paint. I would recommend practicing on a toy gun first to figure out masking, distance, how you hold the can, stenciling, and make sure your idea actually looks good or how you thought it would, before you get to the real deal and have a major awe crap moment with your $1500 rifle.
ETA: I was going to show the pics from 50ft away, but all you see is grass, no gun, it blends that good. |
|
My approach is mildly different. I spray everything down with Formula 409, scrub with clean rags, and then spray it down again, and scrub with the Scotch scrubbing pad. Then I flush everything real good with real hot water. (Dries quicker that way). Allow to dry thoroughly.
Then comes Krylon time. (or Hunter's Spec, its a dollar a can cheaper at one store in my area). After the artistic part is all done, I try to let the parts dry in a nice warm area. Laying in the Summer Sun in Kentucky usually does that quite well. After a couple of days of that, I put it in the trunk. It gets pretty warm inside a car in the middle of a parking lot. Very warm indeed! I find it to be an effective, if weather dependent approach. Formula 409 is both cheaper and less toxic than many of the degreasers recommended by people. If it hurts any plastics, I haven't found any yet. Oh! it doesn't contribute to global warming near as much as brake cleaner or acetone or lacquer thinner. Of course, I can't say the same about the carbonated beverages consumed as a coolant during the process. |
|
Quoted:
My approach is mildly different. I spray everything down with Formula 409, scrub with clean rags, and then spray it down again, and scrub with the Scotch scrubbing pad. Then I flush everything real good with real hot water. (Dries quicker that way). Allow to dry thoroughly. Then comes Krylon time. (or Hunter's Spec, its a dollar a can cheaper at one store in my area). After the artistic part is all done, I try to let the parts dry in a nice warm area. Laying in the Summer Sun in Kentucky usually does that quite well. After a couple of days of that, I put it in the trunk. It gets pretty warm inside a car in the middle of a parking lot. Very warm indeed! I find it to be an effective, if weather dependent approach. Formula 409 is both cheaper and less toxic than many of the degreasers recommended by people. If it hurts any plastics, I haven't found any yet. Oh! it doesn't contribute to global warming near as much as brake cleaner or acetone or lacquer thinner. Of course, I can't say the same about the carbonated beverages consumed as a coolant during the process. LOL WTF?! What about the fired boolets? Those are nice sticks! I also have to give a big thimbs up to the Aervoe rattle can. I have found it to be far superior to Krylon. Heck the jeep my Middy is resting on is rattle canned in Flat Sand. I used OD, Dark Forrest and Flat Sand for my colors. |
Armory Sponsor
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.