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8/3/2012 1:24:18 PM EDT
What have you guys found to work to correct this?

I'm running a 1050 automated and in the past, I've been able to mostly avoid this issue by doing two things:

1.  Put a vacuum line on the primer drop hole.
2. Silicone spraying the shit out of my decapping pin.

But, this is still not 100% effective.  And it really needs to be. If a primer makes it over to station two, it can potentially damage the shell plate.  And that's an $80 part.    Yeah, I broke my shellplate yesterday.

And yes, I'm using a torque limiter to mitigate damage to the press... just not as effectively as I'd like to.  I've got the limiter set above the threshold of damage to the shellplate (apparently) to overcome flex elsewhere in the system without slipping.   But that's a separate issue.

What I'd really like to do is figure out some way of positively knocking the primers off the end of the decapping pin.  I've tried putting a little plastic insert into the primer drop hole so that the primer kind of tips off of the end of the pin.  That kind of worked, but it didn't last very long.

Someone else suggested a sort of tapping force on top of the decapping die.  I don't really know if that would be effective tho, as alot of the force would be absorbed by the die body and the press head.

I've seen a special decapper made by dillon that is spring-loaded so that when the pin encounters the primer it compresses but when the primer clears the pocket, the spring releases and flings the primer off the end of the pin.  This seems like the perfect solution.... but they don't make it for rifle cartridges!  

And I don't think it would be possible to, either.   The floating portion with the spring in it appears to be too big to fit in anything by pistol cases.  And I think if you located that part high enough to stay above the case mouth on a .223, you'd have a high chance of misalignment between the pin and the case.  I dunno, maybe it could be made to work.  I'm not a machinist tho, so I'd have to get it made by a guy in town...

Right now, I'm using a LEE universal decapper, because of it's slip collet design.  It's saved me from breaking a pin on a berdan primed case probably 8 or 10 times.  But, if it's a choice between breaking pins and breaking shellplates, I know which one I'd rather do...

Any thoughts?


eta: Oh, guess I'd better define primer drawback.

That's when a spent primer grabs onto the end of the decapping pin and rides it partially back into the primer pocket.
8/3/2012 1:56:47 PM EDT
[#1]
Quoted:
What have you guys found to work to correct this?

I'm running a 1050 automated and in the past, I've been able to mostly avoid this issue by doing two things:

1.  Put a vacuum line on the primer drop hole.
2. Silicone spraying the shit out of my decapping pin.

But, this is still not 100% effective.  And it really needs to be. If a primer makes it over to station two, it can potentially damage the shell plate.  And that's an $80 part.    Yeah, I broke my shellplate yesterday.

And yes, I'm using a torque limiter to mitigate damage to the press... just not as effectively as I'd like to.  I've got the limiter set above the threshold of damage to the shellplate (apparently) to overcome flex elsewhere in the system without slipping.   But that's a separate issue.

What I'd really like to do is figure out some way of positively knocking the primers off the end of the decapping pin.  I've tried putting a little plastic insert into the primer drop hole so that the primer kind of tips off of the end of the pin.  That kind of worked, but it didn't last very long.

Someone else suggested a sort of tapping force on top of the decapping die.  I don't really know if that would be effective tho, as alot of the force would be absorbed by the die body and the press head.

I've seen a special decapper made by dillon that is spring-loaded so that when the pin encounters the primer it compresses but when the primer clears the pocket, the spring releases and flings the primer off the end of the pin.  This seems like the perfect solution.... but they don't make it for rifle cartridges!  

And I don't think it would be possible to, either.   The floating portion with the spring in it appears to be too big to fit in anything by pistol cases.  And I think if you located that part high enough to stay above the case mouth on a .223, you'd have a high chance of misalignment between the pin and the case.  I dunno, maybe it could be made to work.  I'm not a machinist tho, so I'd have to get it made by a guy in town...

Right now, I'm using a LEE universal decapper, because of it's slip collet design.  It's saved me from breaking a pin on a berdan primed case probably 8 or 10 times.  But, if it's a choice between breaking pins and breaking shellplates, I know which one I'd rather do...

Any thoughts?


eta: Oh, guess I'd better define primer drawback.

That's when a spent primer grabs onto the end of the decapping pin and rides it partially back into the primer pocket.


i have this issue mostly with 9mm, and sometimes with .223

both of these die sets were used when i got them. i slapped some rcbs case lube on the pins, which seemed to solve the issue. i believe the real problem is the end of the pins are just slightly mushroomed. if they begin to grab the primers again, they are going to see either the bench grinder or some coarse sand paper. or a polishing job with some flitz.

good luck
8/3/2012 1:58:05 PM EDT
[#2]
What does the end of your decapping pin look like?



Sharp? Flat?
8/3/2012 2:12:35 PM EDT
[#3]
Doesn't one company make a spring-loaded depriming pin, to make sure that the primer pops off?
8/3/2012 2:17:18 PM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:
Doesn't one company make a spring-loaded depriming pin, to make sure that the primer pops off?


Dillon.  But that's for pistols only.

The mechanism looks like it's basically two stems connected by a spring loaded coupler.  The coupler is too big of a diameter to fit inside a .223.


I've tried polishing the end of my pin.  Doesn't seem to make a difference.  Had it happen on new pins, too.

Silicone spraying the tip of the decapping pin seems to help, tho.  Just not enough for my purposes.
8/6/2012 7:52:51 PM EDT
[#5]
If you have an air compressor, maybe mod the die so you can feed air to it.  A little solenoid valve could be rigged to give a blast just as the case starts to lower.  Adjust pressure with a regulator until you have enough to blow the spent primer clear.  A 1/'4" pipe tap is cheap.  It all depends on how much clearance you have around the die.
8/6/2012 7:56:08 PM EDT
[#6]
BTDT with the 1050, did the rounded edges on pin didn't cure it

Here's how I sloved that with my Dillon dies and Blazer brass, remove decap pin and cut off the stem from the base, get a pack of Lyman pins put the cut off base and the
Lyman pin back in die, worked 100% with the Dillon and Blazer brass. Lyman pins are a smaller dia.

Cure was found by one of the guys over on BE's forum
8/6/2012 11:07:37 PM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
BTDT with the 1050, did the rounded edges on pin didn't cure it

Here's how I sloved that with my Dillon dies and Blazer brass, remove decap pin and cut off the stem from the base, get a pack of Lyman pins put the cut off base and the
Lyman pin back in die, worked 100% with the Dillon and Blazer brass. Lyman pins are a smaller dia.

Cure was found by one of the guys over on BE's forum


I'll try that if my air mod doesn't work.  Thanks for the tip.

I'm going to try feeding air through the slits on the Lee collet, first.  Minimal modding required.  Trying to stick with the lee dies for decapping because the friction collet is great for the occaisional berdan primed case.
8/7/2012 1:55:02 AM EDT
[#8]
I occansionally have had this issue, but since I am running the press by hand, it hasn't been a big problem.
What is the diameter on the lyman pins?  Couldn't you just throw your dillon/lee pins in a drill and use some sandpaper to turn them down?  I have heard that solution being put out there as a fix to the smaller primer pockets from Guat IMG brass.
8/7/2012 10:05:44 AM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
I occansionally have had this issue, but since I am running the press by hand, it hasn't been a big problem.
What is the diameter on the lyman pins?  Couldn't you just throw your dillon/lee pins in a drill and use some sandpaper to turn them down?  I have heard that solution being put out there as a fix to the smaller primer pockets from Guat IMG brass.


Good point.  Might do that anyways.  I have noticed on some FC brass that the pin has basically no clearance in the flash hole and in others it's got some slop.  With a Lee pin.
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