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8/8/2012 5:15:49 PM EDT
I just recently picked up an RCBS reloading kit that came with a ram-prime.  There are also two seating “plungers” – on flat and one concave (for domed primers).

I checked my CCI #35 primers and they have a domed top, but it’s clearly visible that the anvil is recessed into the primer cup – which clearly shows that the primer needs to be seated firmly enough to bring the anvil into contact with the shell’s bottom of the primer hole.

So the question is: Do I need to use the flat plunger or the concave plunger in order to properly seat the CCI primers?

Thanks!
8/8/2012 5:33:49 PM EDT
[#1]
Use the flat to seat and set the anvil, just don't crush them.
8/8/2012 7:05:59 PM EDT
[#2]
Some guys install with the con-caved cup, then "arm" the primers with the flat cup.

I have a lee press, it has a flat cup and seats the primers fine.
8/9/2012 8:43:06 AM EDT
[#3]
A call to CCI about which primer punch to use and the tech told me to use the flat punch and slightly flatten the dome. I highly recommend a primer pocket uniformer to uniform the depths of the primer pocket. I much prefer the old style "blue box" CCI 50 primers with a flat primer rather than a domed one. Just don't use too much pressure trying to get them to seat flush or below and crush them.
8/9/2012 4:45:28 PM EDT
[#4]
Thanks again for the info, guys.  Even though I have the ram-prime that came with my RCBS kit, I’m looking at just buying the Lee ram-prime.  That way I won’t have to fiddle with using the 1 ½ to 7/8ths bushing and move everything around – so I was hoping that the flat plunger was good-to-go.

Also, I purchased a primer pocket uniformer as well as a flash hole uniformer from K&M.  I really like their design as both tools have a stem that fits my micro cordless lithium ion drills that I normally use for case trimming.  The instructions say that the pocket uniformer is also intended for use as a primer pocket cleaner as well.



At $37 it’s less expensive and also easier to use than the CH4D unit I had been looking at.

Anyways, I reload for several other calibers - so I understand what is meant by using "feel" to properly ram-prime to arm the anvil.
8/9/2012 6:36:09 PM EDT
[#5]
You can turn the Lee priming set up into a very repeatable unit with the addition of shaft collars to act as a positive depth stop.  I covered this in another post a while back.
8/9/2012 8:01:00 PM EDT
[#6]
Quoted:
You can turn the Lee priming set up into a very repeatable unit with the addition of shaft collars to act as a positive depth stop.  I covered this in another post a while back.


I'd neglected to mention that I'd caught that and thought it was a great idea.  Harbor Freight sells "drill stops" that would probably work well for that.  At the moment, I'm trying to figure out various methods to adapt the RCBS ram-prime for use on Lee's open-front press.  The lower portion of the RCBS ram-prime plunger is fully adjustable for length and has a built-in lock ring.  Plus - I already have it - even though the Lee unit is not terribly expensive.

The challenge is adapting the lower priming plunger from the RCBS primer to fit on the Lee open-front press.  I think I could just take one of the shell-holder that I don't use and drill and tap it for the RCBS plunger to thread into..

Since I'll be using the K&M primer pocket uniformer, I should be able to exploit the RCBS's adjustable length priming plunger (much like you've done) to set the length for a consistent seating depth.  Looking at my RCBS primers - they have the anvil clearly recessed into the cup, so I know that there is going to be a certain amount of "crush" to get them seated perfectly for positive ignition.

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I must say that even though I've been reloading since 1981, the .50 BMG is an animal all of its own... It's just like being a beginner all over again.  

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