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Posted: 12/30/2008 1:11:12 PM EDT
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I'm getting a used ar upper and lower and want them both to match.
When you paint the upper should it be totally stripped parts wise or should I do it with the ejection port cover and foward assist left on it. also should I mount the barrel before or after? I'm thinking of using Brownell Alumahyde II Flat Black, any good? |
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If painting a solid color it usually doesn't matter if all the parts are separate and sprayed that way. The finish will normally match unless something goes wrong.
Now if you're going to camo the rifle, then I normally paint the base color on everything separately, and then just loosely assemble the rifle for the rest of the pattern. |
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Quoted: Did you paint the CAA stock as well? If so, how does the "paint" stick to the plastic/polymer? Does it chip easily? I have a CAA stock in black and I want it to be Flat Dark Earth to match my MAGPUL grip and mags!I've left the barrel on, but take the port cover and spring off, ask me how I know... I'd also paint the lower at the same time, less all parts. Then and only then do you get a perfect match!ETA I taped around the forward assist and had ZERO problems. http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm155/uniqe1_photo/IMG_0047.jpg http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm155/uniqe1_photo/IMG_0043.jpg http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm155/uniqe1_photo/IMG_0034.jpg Do you see the port cover in the bottom picture? It's stuck halfway open. Spring broke right after that also. take it off... ETA (again) mask off the inside of the upper, or paint it VERY lightly, otherwise the BCG won't operate as smoothly as it should. FTF issues til you remove the excess paint. ![]() |
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I took almost everything apart and painted it, including the CAA stock.
It can chip and peel, yes. BUT (huge but!) if you aluminum oxide blast everything, especially the plastic stuff, it will stick FAR better. Then I degrease several times, and then I paint. It sticks just fine, just be sure and blast it first, then degrease, THEN paint. |
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