Armory Sponsor
Posted: 8/27/2009 9:12:10 PM EDT
|
This question is inspired by another thread, but I didn''t want to hijack it.
Those of you who reload steel cases, how do you do it, what do you differently, and how do you stop rust? I want to be able to recycle these cases, even if I don't do it as a matter of course. The reasons for doing so are fairly well known. However, unlike brass, there are rarely any good range pickups at my club. Everything is usually pretty far gone by the time I see it. Even my own cases start to get freckles after a few days in the spent "brass" container (I do keep them seperate). What do you do to your reloads to stop the steel from corroding? Is there a difference when reloading the gray "polymer" coated steel and the older "lacquered" cases? Lubing, sticking, extra force, etc? Are die setting significantly different? Does case tumbling remove rust? Remove protective layers? |
|
I've done a few, and as NVGdude said, really no different than brass. I do prefer the grey polymer cases as they seem to be a little less sticky in the press. I use RCBS case lube and pad.
When sorting the cases, I toss any that have started to corrode. Seems to start just inside the necks first. If it has a couple of small spots on the outside and the inside looks clean, I toss them into the vib tumbler for an hour or so. If they don't get clean, they get tossed. DO NOT run them through your dies with any corrosion on them. |
| I load steel 223 over and over again. As for rust, I use Hornady One-Shot for lube and leave it on. This forms a barrier and prevents further rust formation. Minor surface rust is ok and doesn't do any harm. Tumbling will only increase the erosion of poly/laquer finish. Secondly, steel cases don't grow like brass. They generally stay at the length of 1.755". Steel cases will eventually crack at the neck area. before loading carefully examine each case, then load as usual. No other special precaution required. Also, champer the inside necks of all your cases before loading. If you don't the steel will tear and cut away at your bullets. |
|
Quoted:
This question is inspired by another thread, but I didn''t want to hijack it. Those of you who reload steel cases, how do you do it, what do you differently, and how do you stop rust? I want to be able to recycle these cases, even if I don't do it as a matter of course. The reasons for doing so are fairly well known. However, unlike brass, there are rarely any good range pickups at my club. Everything is usually pretty far gone by the time I see it. Even my own cases start to get freckles after a few days in the spent "brass" container (I do keep them seperate). What do you do to your reloads to stop the steel from corroding? Is there a difference when reloading the gray "polymer" coated steel and the older "lacquered" cases? Lubing, sticking, extra force, etc? Are die setting significantly different? Does case tumbling remove rust? Remove protective layers? Topic for loading WOLF cases is tacked in the top of the loading forum, you have to scroll through each to find it, but it is "HERE" |
|
Quoted:
I load steel 223 over and over again. As for rust, I use Hornady One-Shot for lube and leave it on. This forms a barrier and prevents further rust formation. Minor surface rust is ok and doesn't do any harm. Tumbling will only increase the erosion of poly/laquer finish. Secondly, steel cases don't grow like brass. They generally stay at the length of 1.755". Steel cases will eventually crack at the neck area. before loading carefully examine each case, then load as usual. No other special precaution required. Also, champer the inside necks of all your cases before loading. If you don't the steel will tear and cut away at your bullets. With the exception of the one-shot comment, I heartily second this guys post, as I have had the same experiences. |
Armory Sponsor