Armory Sponsor
Posted: 6/4/2013 11:21:39 AM EDT
|
OK, I know this topic has been pretty well beat to death, but bare with me...
I've been reloading for many years and have a Dillon 550B. I am looking for advice on a new press that will be used for .223 only! I want to leave it completely set up for .223 and still be able to load all my other stuff. I'm happy with Dillon, but thought there might be something out there I'm missing. I hope to eventually have a case feeder and bullet feeder. So that's it. What is the VERY BEST set up for .223? Bruce KB1IIX |
|
I'll be the voice in the wilderness.
I use my 650 for all pistol rounds except .357 Sig. .357 Sig and rifle rounds I load on my LnL AP with case feeder. If I could only have one, I would stay with the Dillon, but the LnL has some advantages with rifle rounds. I find the LnL easier to use for sizing brass in two steps and for load development when you are using the AP like a single stage. The Hornady Quick Change Dies are slightly more convenient that swapping tool heads on the Dillon particularly if you only need one as in sizing brass. Primers only feed when you need them unlike the Dillon. It's easier to pull off a primed case to add individually weighed powder charges particularly if you have other dies on your Dillon tool head. No searching for lost buttons with the LnL. The sleeve on the Hornady die helps guide the rifle bullet into the seating die. Both are great machines. If you already have your 550 set up for pistol, take a look at the Hornady LnL AP for rifle. Moving to cover now before the blue cool aid crowd arrives. Good luck. |
|
Dillon 650/ Casefeeder
Separate Toolhead for Dillon Trimmer/decapper-resizing die. Runs the fired brass thru the processing tool head, swap the toolhead and run them for full reloading. No need for a sizing/decapping die in position one of the reloading tool head since your brass has been resized and trimmed on the other toolhead. Cranking out spent brass thru the casefeeder to resize/decap/trim is a snap. Just another option. |
| I still use my Rock Crusjer for Rifle sizing and loading an my Dillons fpor all else. The other night I thought about getting a second single stage press to do more rifle calibers and be able to switch back and forth. But that is a pian itself. Then I ordered a Dillon BL550 which is a Dillon 550 without the auto primer and auto powder systems. It only cost $259 and can still do much more faster than any single stage press. If I want to I could still add either of the systems I want at any time. I used to do 357 Sig on my RC but now I can do first size in station 1, and prime, then do the second size with my 357 Sig die at station 2 all in one stroke. The BL550 allows me to do 308 by SIze and prime in station 1, the drop powder in station 2, the seat the bullet at station 3. Much faster than doing all cases one operation at a time. |
|
Quoted:
OK, I know this topic has been pretty well beat to death, but bare with me... I've been reloading for many years and have a Dillon 550B. I am looking for advice on a new press that will be used for .223 only! I want to leave it completely set up for .223 and still be able to load all my other stuff. I'm happy with Dillon, but thought there might be something out there I'm missing. I hope to eventually have a case feeder and bullet feeder. So that's it. What is the VERY BEST set up for .223? Bruce KB1IIX then the answer is a 1050 leave it set up swages every round that is the very best |
|
I still think I have the best formula for 5.56
Buy 3x-5x as much brass as you shoot in a year, all once fired same headstamp. $50-$60K. Don't mix in crap you find at the range. Simply set it aside and sell it as mixed. Send all the brass to a processor to swage/clean/resize $35/K Load on a 650/casefeed until you run out of fresh brass At that point clean, resize and trim with a Possum hollow or similar cost effective tool This investment, in many ways, is better than dumping alot of money in equipment. You have good enough tools that you are not wasting time, and you can batch it out every couple of years. Many guys spend a fortune on equipment to use it very sporadically. I'd rather have more of a brass supply(that's consistent) and not have the capital tied up in equipment. Paying someone the first go around to remove the crimp makes sense from a labor standpoint to me. I know I could do it with a super swage, reamer, etc but that nitty gritty is what I hat the most so sub it out to someone with a 1050. |
|
Quoted:
I still think I have the best formula for 5.56 Buy 3x-5x as much brass as you shoot in a year, all once fired same headstamp. $50-$60K. Don't mix in crap you find at the range. Simply set it aside and sell it as mixed. Send all the brass to a processor to swage/clean/resize $35/K Load on a 650/casefeed until you run out of fresh brass At that point clean, resize and trim with a Possum hollow or similar cost effective tool This investment, in many ways, is better than dumping alot of money in equipment. You have good enough tools that you are not wasting time, and you can batch it out every couple of years. Many guys spend a fortune on equipment to use it very sporadically. I'd rather have more of a brass supply(that's consistent) and not have the capital tied up in equipment. Paying someone the first go around to remove the crimp makes sense from a labor standpoint to me. I know I could do it with a super swage, reamer, etc but that nitty gritty is what I hat the most so sub it out to someone with a 1050. That's a pretty good idea! Especially for somebody starting out that doesn't have all the stuff and just wants to load, not clean-resize- etc.. |
|
Quoted:
I still think I have the best formula for 5.56 Buy 3x-5x as much brass as you shoot in a year, all once fired same headstamp. $50-$60K. Don't mix in crap you find at the range. Simply set it aside and sell it as mixed. Send all the brass to a processor to swage/clean/resize $35/K Load on a 650/casefeed until you run out of fresh brass At that point clean, resize and trim with a Possum hollow or similar cost effective tool This investment, in many ways, is better than dumping alot of money in equipment. You have good enough tools that you are not wasting time, and you can batch it out every couple of years. Many guys spend a fortune on equipment to use it very sporadically. I'd rather have more of a brass supply(that's consistent) and not have the capital tied up in equipment. Paying someone the first go around to remove the crimp makes sense from a labor standpoint to me. I know I could do it with a super swage, reamer, etc but that nitty gritty is what I hat the most so sub it out to someone with a 1050. I paid for two S1050s with some help from guys that think like you do. |
| 550B can be used for .223. Go to Brian Enos site for case feed bracket modification instructions (or buy new bracket from dillon is $25.00 and modify yourself - feed slope has to be dropped from 45 degrees to 35 degrees - IIRC, in order for case to clear deprimeing pin), IIRC it uses 32 H&R drop tube, uses standard 650 small rifle plate in 550B bullet feeder. |
|
Quoted:
I've looked and looked on Enos's website for info regarding modifying a 550B casefeeder to feed .223. Can't find anything. Where is it?? cap Go to http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=157578 Lots of stuff there. I used .32 H&R drop tube and feed ramp, 650 small rifle plate, and cut my bracket angle to 35 degrees and have .25" clearance under the decapping pin. RobRob? cut his at 23 degrees but that makes it harder to move the case feed shuttle. If you cut to 35 degrees, and it isn't enough - you can always remove more metal. Dillon will sell the bracket - I brought one for $25? |
|
Quoted: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=157578 link made hot.Quoted: I've looked and looked on Enos's website for info regarding modifying a 550B casefeeder to feed .223. Can't find anything. Where is it?? cap Go to http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=157578 Lots of stuff there. I used .32 H&R drop tube and feed ramp, 650 small rifle plate, and cut my bracket angle to 35 degrees and have .25" clearance under the decapping pin. RobRob? cut his at 23 degrees but that makes it harder to move the case feed shuttle. If you cut to 35 degrees, and it isn't enough - you can always remove more metal. Dillon will sell the bracket - I brought one for $25? Anyone want to learn how to hot link or post a pic, instructions are up in FAQ's. |
|
+1 for 650/Casefeeder/Multiple Tool Heads
Brass Processing: Toolhead with sizing/decapping die, Dillon Power Trimmer Retumble to get off remaining processing lube. Re-Loading: Backed off sizing/decapping die to clear out primer pocket from any remaining cleaning media, Prime, Powder, Seat, possible crimp in final position. |
Armory Sponsor