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12/1/2008 12:46:50 PM EDT
I'm new to this forum and new to rifle reloading...   I want to reload .233 for target shooting.  I have all the equipment and about 2000 once fired cases.  I have been told that mil brass is much harder to reload becasue of the crimped primer.  Can anyone share a photo of what I should look for to ID mil brass?

Thanks!!!
12/1/2008 11:57:09 AM EDT
[#1]
You will get a lot more response in the reloading forum..... I dont have a picture but a crimped primer is very obvious when compared to a one that is not. Most .MIL brass has only numbers and letters  LC 84  or RORG 82 or something similar not a full name like Winchester or Federal and the caliber may or may not be marked.

Linky to some .MIL examples

ETA: The crimped primer is a one time headache and easy to deal with the proper tools
12/1/2008 2:14:03 PM EDT
[#2]
Don't be afraid of mil brass, it's some good stuff.  The crimp is no big deal, as already has been said.  There is a pic in the tacked thread at the top.  

I have a Dillon Super Swager, and love it.
12/1/2008 3:14:51 PM EDT
[#3]
Just deal with the crimp on a one time basis. Then sort by headstamp year. Get as large a lot of one year and use that for precision loads. The lessor #'s can be used to use for fouling shots, or for plinking ammo. If you really are bored you can sort the brass by wt and cull out the low and high for foulers etc.

12/1/2008 5:50:12 PM EDT
[#4]


After decapping the cases look like this.

Case on the left, crimp is removed. Look at the slight bevel near the primer pocket.

Case on right is decapped only, crimp is remaining. Still a lip on the edge of the primer pocket.

Removing crimp can be done 3 ways,

Hand tool, cheapest (less than $10) but slowest. Ok to start, but not good for volume (any more than 20) I recommend the Hornaday tool with handle.

RCBS crimp swaging die. About $40. Faster than a hand tool, easy to bend rod.

Cases must be sorted by headstamp, each brand needs a different adjustment.

Die mounts in a single stage reloading press.

Dillon super swage, about $100 and worth it.

Cases must still be sorted by headstamp, but with practice you get a feel for the crimp swaging and don't have to sort cases.

If you do large batches (1,000 rounds at a time) it's the only way to go.
12/2/2008 10:35:24 AM EDT
[#5]
All,
Thanks for the great info!  Doesn't sound like a big deal if I buy the dillon tool.

About how many loads can you get from a case?

Thanks!!!
12/2/2008 10:39:23 AM EDT
[#6]
Quoted:
All,
Thanks for the great info!  Doesn't sound like a big deal if I buy the dillon tool.

About how many loads can you get from a case?

Thanks!!!


Load them till they split.  Seriously, you can realistically expect to get 5 or more loadings.  Really depends on how hot you load them.  I have some brass on 7 firings, your results may very.

12/3/2008 5:44:34 AM EDT
[#7]
Cool... So 1000 once fired I should get at least 4000 shots out of them!

Thanks for all the great info!
12/3/2008 6:53:21 AM EDT
[#8]




trash that nasty weak webbed FC brass


 
12/3/2008 7:16:57 AM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
Cool... So 1000 once fired I should get at least 4000 shots out of them!

Thanks for all the great info!



If you don't hot rod the cases.  If you use granny loads they might last forever.  Or maybe my mom's loads, both of my Grandma's could be fiery.

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