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Posted: 5/1/2013 7:32:50 PM EDT
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Before you jump my ass, I did go through the Tacked Threads above:
I am new to reloading, and I hate asking noob questions, but I also hate waisting money. 1.Does it matter which reloading manual I buy? I already read through "ABC's of Reloading" and I am about to get my "factory" underway. 2. I plan on purchasing a RCBS Rock Chucker, do I have to buy the RCBS reloading book? 3. If I buy Hornady bullets, do I have to have a Hornady book? Same with Sierra bullets and book? The reason I ask, I dont want to buy a $100 Hornady book, if the same info is in a RCBS or another ect... 4. And I'm piecing my own kit together, seems like the best way to go in my route. I plan on buying the press, a tumbler (and media) and dies (full length for 223 in an AR15, right?). I figure that should keep me busy enough, until I read through the reloading books and figure out a load I want to try. Also, I know that isnt all I need, I know I need a case trimmer, caliper, ect.... before I start to load. |
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Quoted: Before you jump my ass, I did go through the Tacked Threads above: I am new to reloading, and I hate asking noob questions, but I also hate waisting money. 1.Does it matter which reloading manual I buy? I already read through "ABC's of Reloading" and I am about to get my "factory" underway. 2. I plan on purchasing a RCBS Rock Chucker, do I have to buy the RCBS reloading book? 3. If I buy Hornady bullets, do I have to have a Hornady book? Same with Sierra bullets and book? The reason I ask, I dont want to buy a $100 Hornady book, if the same info is in a RCBS or another ect... 4. And I'm piecing my own kit together, seems like the best way to go in my route. I plan on buying the press, a tumbler (and media) and dies (full length for 223 in an AR15, right?). I figure that should keep me busy enough, until I read through the reloading books and figure out a load I want to try. Also, I know that isnt all I need, I know I need a case trimmer, caliper, ect.... before I start to load. What is this $100 book you speak of?? Yes, full length 223 will get the job done. Get the book for the bullets your going to shoot the most. Hornady 9 is good. Keep in mind, different manufactures make the shape and tips differently. That means not all 55gr SPBT's are going to use the same COAL. By the way, Hornady #9 is only $29, link below. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/575530/hornady-handbook-of-cartridge-reloading-9th-edition-reloading-manual |
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Before you jump my ass, I did go through the Tacked Threads above: I am new to reloading, and I hate asking noob questions, but I also hate waisting money. 1.Does it matter which reloading manual I buy? Being a new reloader, I really liked the Lyman 49th. It has a lot of valuable info in it for the new reloader, and also a lot of load data. I already read through "ABC's of Reloading" and I am about to get my "factory" underway. 2. I plan on purchasing a RCBS Rock Chucker, do I have to buy the RCBS reloading book? RCBS does not make a reloading book that I know of. The dies will come with instructions on how to set them up. 3. If I buy Hornady bullets, do I have to have a Hornady book? Same with Sierra bullets and book? The reason I ask, I dont want to buy a $100 Hornady book, if the same info is in a RCBS or another ect... It depends. If you buy & shoot a lot of Hornady (or Sierra)bullets, a Hornady (Sierra) book is a great resource, because it will have data for the exact bullet you are using. The Hornady 9th (most current) is only $30. The Lyman 49th has bullets from various manufactures, there is no guarantee it will have your exact bullet. 4. And I'm piecing my own kit together, seems like the best way to go in my route. I plan on buying the press, a tumbler (and media) and dies (full length for 223 in an AR15, right?). I figure that should keep me busy enough, until I read through the reloading books and figure out a load I want to try. Full length is what you want for AR. Otherwise you may run into feeding issues with your AR. Also, I know that isnt all I need, I know I need a case trimmer, caliper, ect.... before I start to load. |
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I know I saw a $100 Hornady book on Amazon.
Checked again, its the 8th edition, thanks for the heads up. So the hornady book will tell me about different primers and powders, correct, Im not just limited to a certain primer, with a certain powder, right? are all small rigle primers the same? ect.... sorry for the noob questions, just making sure i dont need some kind of CCI book or something. I am buying the Hornady book right now, and will look for a sierra book, unless the hornady book will have sierra info in there as well ETA - just bought the book from the supplied link, thanks |
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Quoted: So the hornady book will tell me about different primers and powders, correct, Im not just limited to a certain primer, with a certain powder, right? I am buying the Hornady book right now, and will look for a sierra book, unless the hornady book will have sierra info in there as well Hornady book will have only Hornady bullets, but lots of different powders. Sierra book will have Sierra bullets and lots of different powders. |
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Yes have more than one manual on hand. You will come across loads that will be found in several books. E.x: last weekend I loaded 9mm Hornady XTP 115gr and only had HS-6. XTP's are not in my RCBS however I found them in the Hornady 9th with HS-6 at 5.4 lowest.  Ok good, I didn't want to have to buy every book out there. I can handle buying a couple, but not 10 So what books are y'all finding the most helpful, or widest variety of loads, or widest variety of components (manufacturers of bullets, primers, and powders)??? |
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Yes have more than one manual on hand. You will come across loads that will be found in several books. E.x: last weekend I loaded 9mm Hornady XTP 115gr and only had HS-6. XTP's are not in my RCBS however I found them in the Hornady 9th with HS-6 at 5.4 lowest. Ok good, I didn't want to have to buy every book out there. I can handle buying a couple, but not 10 So what books are y'all finding the most helpful, or widest variety of loads, or widest variety of components (manufacturers of bullets, primers, and powders)??? It is a good idea to have more than one as mentioned. I have the Hornady #9, Speer 14, and older Nosler, older Barnes, and an older Lyman. You will notice that across the books for the same caliber/bullet/powder combination that they all start at different loads. This can be frustrating, but best bet is to start with the lowest published load first. |
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Buy as many as you can afford. You can never have too many.
For starters, I would recommend Lyman 49th. It has a lot of data, and it gives a great deal of information for the new reloader. Another good option (if you can find it) is Hodgdon's 2013 Annual Manual (it is simply a magazine - not much info on how to load, but it's cheap & has quite a bit of load data) |
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here's my advice from a 20 year plus reloader;
get just about any recent manual preferably one that matches the brand bullets you want to start out with. BUT you can use any brand manual and use the comparable data from another brand's manual and data as long as you do what you're supposed to, start low and work up, watching for pressure signs. I would say as a basic manual to go with the Hornady, the Sierra, or the Lyman. If you're going to load the hornady 68 BTHP match and have the sierra manual, you would use the data for the sierra 69 BTHP and obviously don't start with the top loads, start low. for manuals I buy a new manual every 3-4 years, and get a different brand to broaden my data library. In order I got the Speer manual (which by the way is the RCBS manual and it came in my RCBS kit), picked up the Nosler number 3, the Lyman 47, then the Sierra, then the Hornady a few years ago, then another Nosler as it was greatly expanded from the one I have and I use a lot of Nosler bullets. My most recent was a Lyman for Cast bullets only. This manual acquisition may seem like ridiculous overkill but the old data in my Speer from the mid 80's date is now out of date and max loads have been lowered since then with changes in powder formulas, improvements in ballistic lab data measuring, and of course lawyers influence. I keep the old manuals around anyhow because they have a lot of cartridges that have been dropped from the new manuals. When i start out on a new project I will crack open 3 or more manuals and look at a lot of data and compare them book to book. Very often you will see one max is much lower than another brand manual's max. This could be due to a lot of things, lawyers, date of manual, different firearms or universal recievers used from book to book. Nothing will ever match up perfectly to what you have at home, your rifle is not a universal receiver, you may have a different primer, etc. The manuals are guides to get started and keep you on track. You can get overpressure signs before (or even well before) the manual max charge so you are your own safetly officer and quality control guy. heck if you look at enough books you will find one books start charge is beyond another's max charge, especially when comparing old books to new books. It happens. |
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an addendum; nothing wrong with buying just one full size basic manual for now and using the free powder supplier data manuals and online data to suppliment.
you can get at the gunshop or from a reloading supply house the small booklets from Winchester, Hodgdon, IMR, Alliant and Accurate Arms for free. They have the data on the web as well. I suppose now the Winchester/IMR/and Hodgdon are now compiled together as they've merged. I have noticed the powder maker's data often tends to run hotter than the bullet maker's data. Also the Sierra and Hornady book manuals are pretty conservative and lean toward lower maximums to keep you safer. |
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I know I saw a $100 Hornady book on Amazon. Checked again, its the 8th edition, thanks for the heads up. So the hornady book will tell me about different primers and powders, correct, Im not just limited to a certain primer, with a certain powder, right? normally they'll use just one primer and about 10-12 different powders. You're not limited to certain primers but there's a catch, some primers are not suitable for certain loads so it may be safer to use their recommended primer. When in doubt ask here for a substitute. Some primers folks buy and have problems is the Rem 6 1/2 which is a small rifle but meant only for the smallest cartridges like .22 hornet, a hot loaded .223 Rem load will blow the rem 6 1/2. Also some ball powders work better with magnum primers in cold weather. (this is where experience kicks in, so ask around) are all small rigle primers the same? ect....(no see above) sorry for the noob questions, just making sure i dont need some kind of CCI book or something. I am buying the Hornady book right now, and will look for a sierra book, unless the hornady book will have sierra info in there as well (that's fine and is a good book, you can subsitute one brand to the next as long as you start low and work up and be prepared to stop at pressure signs) ETA - just bought the book from the supplied link, thanks |
| If you have a BassPro in your AO you might pay them a visit and see if they have the Hornady #8 Reloading Manual. I bought one at my local BP for $14.97. I just looked online and it is out of stock so you will have to source it locally. I wish I would have bought 3 or 4 at that price (to share with others). |
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Primer wise, I stick with CCI benchrest or Rem 7 1/2 primers for all loads except big magnum rounds, in which case I use a magnum primer... but then I always use federal match mag primers. They have tough cups and rarely blow out, plus are very consistent.
Powders, look for stuff that will cross over from one caliber to another. Those are generally good all purpose powders. Varget comes to mind as a very good example. It loads a TON of standard and non-standard rounds, has a consistent burn rate, and extremely accurate in most everything. The same can be said for IMR 4064 / 4895, among others. Brass wise, I can't stress this enough, buying new brass is the best way to make sure you get consistent loads. Used stuff is ok if you know what to look for, but it's hit or miss. For a new loader, I would recommend getting new stuff just to take this variable out of the equation. Stay away from VLD bullets (like the berger vld's) until you get really really good at loading standard bullets. They can be tricky and very frustrating to even experienced guys. For semi-autos like the AR, I like small base dies. They always chamber and I never have issues. RCBS makes an AR series die that is pretty sweet. I have it in 3 calibers. http://data.hodgdon.com/ - that will be your new friend. |
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1.) Yes, it does matter which manual you buy. For the most part manuals are proprietary, meaning brand x data is specific to brand x bullet. If loading Sierra bullets I load from Sierra data, same with Hornady, Nosler, Speer and so on. Barnes bullets absolutely must be loaded from Barnes data. All copper projectiles are longer and use deeper seating depth.
Lee represents cross sections of many oem manufacturers and Lyman is specific to a brand or two, Lyman value is lead bullet data. The most valued two manuals in my library are Lee and Lyman. With the Lee manual you're left to figure oal on your own but it ain't rocket science. Proprietary data, Hornady and Sierra are two popular brands of bullets. A basic set of books would include Lyman # 49, Lee 2nd edition, Hornady and Sierra manuals. 2.) Front sections of manuals usually include proprietary technical information about equipment. If the bulk of my equipment was to be RCBS, then yes RCBS manual could come in handy. I reference Lee and Hornady manuals every once in a while for information forgotten, like how many turns off the shell plate should a die be set. Dillon dies for example don't adjust same as my Lee or Hornady dies. 3.) Answered above. 4.) Equipment needs are outlined in load manuals, front sections will have chapter(s) devoted to equipment use and needs. It's a mistake to short change your operation's library. Half of the questions in this forum are pretty basic stuff that's covered in manuals. I realize technical forums double for socializing. So, redundanct questions about basic stuff is just part of it, problem is soliciting advice from cross sections of experience. Join dates don't reflect experience/inexperience or myth from fact. Most all of my questions are answered within my library of manuals, technical manuals and ballistic books written by industry experts. |
| I have 7+ manuals, speer, sierra, hornady, nosler, and a few others, most of them recent. And I prefer the sierra book over the others and I use it the most, but I still do like having the others. Granted I use mostly sierra bullets so that has an influence in my book preference, but I also prefer the sierra book because of how the book is constructed and formatted. It is suited to leaving open on a benchtop hands off due to its binder style construction. And I can arrange it the way I want it, or insert my own pages easily. It also happened to cover all the powders/bullet combinations I use while none of the other books did excluding the caliber specific books. |
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Don't overlook Richard Lee's excellent book/ loading manual entitled Modern Reloading. I have the Second Edition, and it is a great read. Tons of info not found anywhere else.
Mr. Lee is obviously very opinionated and can certainly talk the talk, ( especially about Lee products vs his competition), but I believe he can also walk the walk, and he can back up most of his assertions quite well. I'm also a big fan of the Hornady, Speer, Hodgdon, Nosler and Barnes manuals. All are excellent in their own rights. |
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If you want to see what the powder manufacturers recommend for their products, go with their manuals. You can either download the information from their website, or fill out a request form and they will email you the latest version. As stated above, having multiple manuals is not a bad thing. The powder manufacturer books will generally have a variety of bullet manufacturers listed. If the loads for your specific weight/type are not from the same maker, do not go above the listed minimum load for your first batch. Work it up from there.
What I do when looking to load for a new caliber is compare the listed loads between several of the manuals to make sure everything is jiving. The maximum recommended load may vary a bit, but the lower end should be pretty similar. Start on the low side, and work up loads from their. Highest velocity does not mean the best particular load for your gun. Edit: Spelling is fundamental, along with reading. Time to get back to fundamentals for me. |
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I suggest Lyman 49, and the manual from the bullet maker of your choice. If you buy the Rockchucker kit, it comes with a Speer manual. RCBS doesn't have a manual out at present. Manuals run from $20 to $30. That $100 price was a panic/are you dumb enough to buy at $100 price. Get 223 FL dies for loading for an AR chambered in 5.56. Read the FAQ's (top of the page) for more on the difference between 223/5.56. Tutorials also has good info for a beginner. Good luck
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Hornady's web site has a very good section about internal and external ballistics. Read the internal ballistics section to start.
All of the gunpowder resellers and some of the bullet manufacturers have load data on their web sites, but it's not as extensive as the printed info. There are zillions of Speer manuals for sale at used book stores, cheap. If you can buy one manual, get the 8th or 9th edition Hornady manual. Then add the Lyman manual. After that the choice is more difficult, but the Sierra manual is a good choice. I like the front end of Richard Lee's book but not the load data section. Don't overlook old manuals when one shows up, especially if it's cheap. I bought a small pile of reloading stuff from a member a few weeks back that contains a Lyman 34 which I already own, plus an old Sierra manual (their first) and a number 9 Speer manual, which aren't duplicated. I have easy access to the free literature from all the bullet and gunpowder companies, so I add new copies most years. The basic principal when the exact data is not available, and it will almost never be, is to use the data for similar components along with a reduced charge weight to start. If we don't do that, then we're not going to load. The most vexing problem you'll likely encounter is loading for the Garand or M1A without data specifically aimed at those guns, and that gives the last two Hornady manuals the edge as they have explicit service rifle data. |
| I started with Lyman 45th in 1981. Now, the Lee 2nd and Lyman 49th are my mainstays. I have some Midway load books for specific calibers, but they are limited. I also have the little freebies from Alliant, Hogdon, (got some from Powder Valley) the online Vihta Vuori free PDF manual and the Hogdon 2013 Annual which is like 8 bucks. I look at the internet for additional recipes to be reasonably sure the loads I use are safe. There are so many combinations of the various components, even with all available manuals you don't have it all covered. And with limited selections of the components now available, you sometimes have to guess where to start. |
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I suggest Lyman 49, and the manual from the bullet maker of your choice. If you buy the Rockchucker kit, it comes with a Speer manual. RCBS doesn't have a manual out at present. Manuals run from $20 to $30. That $100 price was a panic/are you dumb enough to buy at $100 price. Get 223 FL dies for loading for an AR chambered in 5.56. Read the FAQ's (top of the page) for more on the difference between 223/5.56. Tutorials also has good info for a beginner. Good luck First I would like to say thank you to everyone who has PM'd me and helped with answering my questions, I love the community on this site. would the RCBS AR dies be a good set to start with? i have been trying to read as much as possible without asking too many questions, and I know these questions get asked all the time but these dies have a taper crimp, i will not be trying to shoot matches and extreme subMOA, but from what i have read, crimping can hurt accuracy, but if i could get a MOA AR15 i would be happy. i just like buying once, and these dies seem like what i am looking for |
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First I would like to say thank you to everyone who has PM'd me and helped with answering my questions, I love the community on this site. would the RCBS AR dies be a good set to start with? i have been trying to read as much as possible without asking too many questions, and I know these questions get asked all the time but these dies have a taper crimp, i will not be trying to shoot matches and extreme sub MOA, but from what i have read, crimping can hurt accuracy, but if i could get a MOA AR15 i would be happy. i just like buying once, and these dies seem like what i am looking for All conventional seater dies include a crimp ring. As already commented, adding the crimp is an optional step. If a crimp is desired, I recommend seating and then crimping in two separate steps, that will make life much simpler. When simultaneous seating and cimping is used, the bullet is pushed into the neck part way, then the crimp starts to close which interferes with seating. It's possible, but not worth the hassle. I do not crimp .223 Rem ammunition. Bullet crimp is no substitute for poor neck tension, so if bullets are loose in the neck, the basic sizing has to be fixed. |
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Quoted: Quoted: I suggest Lyman 49, and the manual from the bullet maker of your choice. If you buy the Rockchucker kit, it comes with a Speer manual. RCBS doesn't have a manual out at present. Manuals run from $20 to $30. That $100 price was a panic/are you dumb enough to buy at $100 price. Get 223 FL dies for loading for an AR chambered in 5.56. Read the FAQ's (top of the page) for more on the difference between 223/5.56. Tutorials also has good info for a beginner. Good luck First I would like to say thank you to everyone who has PM'd me and helped with answering my questions, I love the community on this site. would the RCBS AR dies be a good set to start with? i have been trying to read as much as possible without asking too many questions, and I know these questions get asked all the time Get FL (full length) reloading dies. Not small base like the RCBS you are thinking about. You will need a case gauge or headspace gauge to set up your size die correctly. Look up in Tutorials, the 4 part "loading 223" tutorial. I suggest Hornady FL 223 dies. Much better features than the RCBS dies. but these dies have a taper crimp, i will not be trying to shoot matches and extreme subMOA, but from what i have read, crimping can hurt accuracy, but if i could get a MOA AR15 i would be happy. In 223, crimping is opitional. Most new reloaders over crimp and cause themselfs lots of problems. i just like buying once, and these dies seem like what i am looking for |
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I suggest Lyman 49, and the manual from the bullet maker of your choice. If you buy the Rockchucker kit, it comes with a Speer manual. RCBS doesn't have a manual out at present. Manuals run from $20 to $30. That $100 price was a panic/are you dumb enough to buy at $100 price. Get 223 FL dies for loading for an AR chambered in 5.56. Read the FAQ's (top of the page) for more on the difference between 223/5.56. Tutorials also has good info for a beginner. Good luck First I would like to say thank you to everyone who has PM'd me and helped with answering my questions, I love the community on this site. would the RCBS AR dies be a good set to start with? i have been trying to read as much as possible without asking too many questions, and I know these questions get asked all the time Get FL (full length) reloading dies. Not small base like the RCBS you are thinking about. You will need a case gauge or headspace gauge to set up your size die correctly. Look up in Tutorials, the 4 part "loading 223" tutorial. I suggest Hornady FL 223 dies. Much better features than the RCBS dies. but these dies have a taper crimp, i will not be trying to shoot matches and extreme subMOA, but from what i have read, crimping can hurt accuracy, but if i could get a MOA AR15 i would be happy. In 223, crimping is opitional. Most new reloaders over crimp and cause themselfs lots of problems. i just like buying once, and these dies seem like what i am looking for Im pretty sure the AR series dies by RCBS is full length sizing dies and yeah, had a bad crimping issue with my first set of loads, such a pain in the ass but i am also a proud owner of a new bullet puller 
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I read Lyman, hornady, and nossler. Each didn't take long as the first few chapters are about reloading, the rest is loading data. I tried to purchase powders that gave the best performance for the caliber of bullet I wanted to shoot. In 223, I picked 55 gr FMJ and 70 gr Barnes sst for practice and hog hunting. Got my hands on IMR 3031. For my 308, IMR 4895, For 270, IMR 4831. Basically what was on the chart that corresponded for my use and most importantly......what I could get my hands on. I put in orders for powders that are popular like h335. Figured I'd try what I could get at first and order the popular ones when I can get them... But I'm not waiting till those are available. For me, I don't plan on making shots over 200 yards. My lease where I hunt is simply not that large, so I'm concentrating on shots that are basically 100 yards or less. I don't think the powder variations will matter as long as they are on the chart.....at least for the range I'm using.
I also look at this as trial and error. I've got many years to discover the best loads. That's what makes it challenging and fun. Oh, BTW, Barnes emailed me all the data for my particular purchase. The 223. As far as dies. I can't get my hands on a 308 full size x-die. So I purchased the small base. Purchased the AR taper die and purchased a Forster micro seating die. Same with the 223. I did get the FL x die for the 270 and no taper die, since its bolt action. Point is, try different dies. I also purchased the Lee FCD and plan on comparing them to the AR RCBS crimping dies. I'll probably sell what I don't use and shouldn't have a problem doing that. |
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Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: I suggest Lyman 49, and the manual from the bullet maker of your choice. If you buy the Rockchucker kit, it comes with a Speer manual. RCBS doesn't have a manual out at present. Manuals run from $20 to $30. That $100 price was a panic/are you dumb enough to buy at $100 price. Get 223 FL dies for loading for an AR chambered in 5.56. Read the FAQ's (top of the page) for more on the difference between 223/5.56. Tutorials also has good info for a beginner. Good luck First I would like to say thank you to everyone who has PM'd me and helped with answering my questions, I love the community on this site. would the RCBS AR dies be a good set to start with? i have been trying to read as much as possible without asking too many questions, and I know these questions get asked all the time Get FL (full length) reloading dies. Not small base like the RCBS you are thinking about. You will need a case gauge or headspace gauge to set up your size die correctly. Look up in Tutorials, the 4 part "loading 223" tutorial. I suggest Hornady FL 223 dies. Much better features than the RCBS dies. but these dies have a taper crimp, i will not be trying to shoot matches and extreme subMOA, but from what i have read, crimping can hurt accuracy, but if i could get a MOA AR15 i would be happy. In 223, crimping is opitional. Most new reloaders over crimp and cause themselfs lots of problems. i just like buying once, and these dies seem like what i am looking for Im pretty sure the AR series dies by RCBS is full length sizing dies Many reports state that they are small base. and yeah, had a bad crimping issue with my first set of loads, such a pain in the ass but i am also a proud owner of a new bullet puller |
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I suggest Lyman 49, and the manual from the bullet maker of your choice. If you buy the Rockchucker kit, it comes with a Speer manual. RCBS doesn't have a manual out at present. Manuals run from $20 to $30. That $100 price was a panic/are you dumb enough to buy at $100 price. Get 223 FL dies for loading for an AR chambered in 5.56. Read the FAQ's (top of the page) for more on the difference between 223/5.56. Tutorials also has good info for a beginner. Good luck First I would like to say thank you to everyone who has PM'd me and helped with answering my questions, I love the community on this site. would the RCBS AR dies be a good set to start with? i have been trying to read as much as possible without asking too many questions, and I know these questions get asked all the time Get FL (full length) reloading dies. Not small base like the RCBS you are thinking about. You will need a case gauge or headspace gauge to set up your size die correctly. Look up in Tutorials, the 4 part "loading 223" tutorial. I suggest Hornady FL 223 dies. Much better features than the RCBS dies. but these dies have a taper crimp, i will not be trying to shoot matches and extreme subMOA, but from what i have read, crimping can hurt accuracy, but if i could get a MOA AR15 i would be happy. In 223, crimping is opitional. Most new reloaders over crimp and cause themselfs lots of problems. i just like buying once, and these dies seem like what i am looking for Im pretty sure the AR series dies by RCBS is full length sizing dies Many reports state that they are small base. and yeah, had a bad crimping issue with my first set of loads, such a pain in the ass but i am also a proud owner of a new bullet puller
Shit! Well I have a headspace gauge on its way |
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Ok, I know we are getting off subject, but i figured i would reply to this instead of IM you, in case some people are following this, but I thought i wanted small base dies for reloading for semi autos or lever action?
I am not sure the difference between full length and small base dies. I tried to search online, but i didnt want to take someone's word from a different forum, if you can tell me the difference i would appreciate it |
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For loading 223 for an AR, all you need is correctly adjusted FL dies. I use FL dies for my Model 94. Small base dies are recommended by the maker because they want to sell them to the new reloaders. If you find your case live is short, your dies are not adjusted correctly, or get some FL dies. Good luck.
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