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12/28/2007 8:58:55 AM EDT
Have some gun parts that were supposedly placed in a molly coating tank and then after being soaked in the tank were baked in an oven and the coating looks alot like a parkerized gray, but have already tried to have them sand blasted which basically had no effect and tried to simply stain them by soaking in a bluing tank which had no effect???
Anyway to remove this stuff without ruining the metal?
Thanks.
12/28/2007 9:06:09 AM EDT
[#1]
Sandblasting is basically the most reliable way. I don't really understand why is didn't work for you, but it would lead me to think they weren't blasted for very long or something was amiss.
12/28/2007 9:08:20 AM EDT
[#2]
They were actually sand blasted twice...
12/28/2007 9:32:43 AM EDT
[#3]

Quoted:
They were actually sand blasted twice...


I don't know what to tell ya. That's sum damn good finish.

Maybe you outta just spray over it with another coat or other finish and move on.
12/28/2007 9:42:59 AM EDT
[#4]
Any suggestions; as I have similar parts that were not coated yet and I want them to match and I am unable to find this type of molly coating as most do not use it, expense and disposal I guess.
Supposedly there is a bluing called #88 or something that should gun blue anything including hillary I would imagine, but without trying it I am not sure.
Yeah, this molly coat is unbelievable, the military should probably use it.
12/28/2007 9:59:47 AM EDT
[#5]

Quoted:
Any suggestions; as I have similar parts that were not coated yet and I want them to match and I am unable to find this type of molly coating as most do not use it, expense and disposal I guess.
Supposedly there is a bluing called #88 or something that should gun blue anything including hillary I would imagine, but without trying it I am not sure.
Yeah, this molly coat is unbelievable, the military should probably use it.


What parts are they?

I like GunKote alot, but don't like using it for very fine movement parts needs like some trigger componets, but it will wear away from movement areas and is a very good self applied finish in general with molybdenum disulfide for lubricating properties.

For stocks and handguards though that you just want a tough finish on as they don't rust and really don't need the benefits of teflon as much I use Alumahyde II for having tryed lots of different finishes as it's a very strong finish and not as expensive as GunKote or Teflon-Moly, plus is aircure and not thermo set. For metal parts though I stick to Gunkote.

With all these finishes though one of the most important things to remember and do is proper prep work. One being complete degreasing and keeping them degreased. Which means wearing fresh, clean rubber gloves to keep your hand oils from contaminating the surface until there completely finished.

I also suspend the parts during spraying and curing to keep from other surface contact that can leave imprints or interfere with the finish till it's completely cured.
It's not hard to do and both are excellent self applied finishes. There are professional services though if you'd prefer that.

GunKote at Brownell's

Alumahyde II


KGcoatings
12/28/2007 1:31:19 PM EDT
[#6]
Bolt and bolt carrier.
Thanks.
12/28/2007 1:41:30 PM EDT
[#7]
I want to know exactly what finish stands up to sand blasting.  All of the moly coating I've seen is the spray on and bake kind, and media blasting removes that.

I'm no help for your problem.  Please share any info about the finish you have.

Thanks,
Karl
12/28/2007 2:02:27 PM EDT
[#8]

Quoted:
Bolt and bolt carrier.
Thanks.


A bolt and bolt carrier huh?

For one I definitely wouldn't coat them in either the Gunkote or the Alumahyde II, and two I doubt that's just a plain old moly coating.

There are bolts and bolt carriers today that are coated in nickel/teflon, silicon/nickel, titanium nitride, and hard chrome. If that coating isn't coming off through samd blasting, it's not likely to in any easy way and I'd just leave it alone unless it is starting to flake or chip and you want to redo it.

Even than I don't know what would take any of those coatings off completely to let you have it redone. Maybe heavy sanding or grinding?
If you could get it off completely you definitely don't want to spray it down with a common finish that will wear away fast and flake off in the action under the stress a bolt carrier and bolt go through. There not meant for that.

I recommend just leaving it, and buying another bolt carrier and bolt if it bothers that much.

It would be interesting to see a photo of the finish if you could.  
12/28/2007 2:21:06 PM EDT
[#9]
I wish I could remeber what it was called, I emailed the guy that knows, but he is difficult to contact sometimes. As for pics, I have dialup and do not have camera, sorry.
I can tell you that it is a dark gray molly coat and looks parkerized, If I find out what it is I will post it, I guess it seeps into the metal or something as it sure doesnt come off.
Problem is, I would switch out the bolt and carrier, but they are numbered to the gun unfortunately. Can I hand sand it with something or would that not work or wreck the metal?
12/28/2007 2:27:01 PM EDT
[#10]

Quoted:
I wish I could remeber what it was called, I emailed the guy that knows, but he is difficult to contact sometimes. As for pics, I have dialup and do not have camera, sorry.
I can tell you that it is a dark gray molly coat and looks parkerized, If I find out what it is I will post it, I guess it seeps into the metal or something as it sure doesnt come off.
Problem is, I would switch out the bolt and carrier, but they are numbered to the gun unfortunately. Can I hand sand it with something or would that not work or wreck the metal?


You can't really, it was my obviously bad attempt at making a joke.
I still say if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
12/28/2007 2:35:29 PM EDT
[#11]
I USE A MOLY PRODUCT CALLED MS MOLY. ONLY THING THAT WILL TAKE IT OFF IS ACETONE, YEA YOUR OLD LADYS FINGERNAIL POLISH REMOVER.TRY IT LMK IF IT WORKS FOR YA. BUSHWKER
12/28/2007 2:50:35 PM EDT
[#12]
Yes, I will definitely look into that and let you know, it would be great if it worked.
Thanks everyone.
1/3/2008 6:12:39 AM EDT
[#13]
Found out that the molly coat is called Sandstrum 9-A, was told that the acetone will have no effect and that aluminum oxide sand blasting is necessary to remove it, but since that can be harsh, a special mixture with aluminum oxide might be in order instead. I have not had the chance to try the acetone yet, although I will asap.
1/3/2008 9:31:01 AM EDT
[#14]
I can only get it off with Aluminum oxide, use a lower pressure to not take off too much metal
1/4/2008 11:55:41 AM EDT
[#15]
Finally, its off after the 2nd round of sand blasting, and looks perfect too, so I am not going to mess with it anymore, applied gun oil to it and it came out looking factory new.
Thanks, for the help.
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