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10/21/2013 4:55:17 AM EDT
I removed a scope base from a rifle that has been on the rifle for about 10 years. There was so Loctite left on the receiver that I can't get off. I scrubbed with gunscrubber and a nylon brush but it didn't come off. Any ideas? I am mounting a new base and want the top of the receiver to be as smooth as possible. While I'm at it any ideas on how to smooth up the metal around the screw holes also? I don't want to damage the gun finish.  I've been reading about "bedding" the base but honestly after years of shooting scoped guns I've never heard anyone locally talk about bedding a scope base. They just slap it on and lock it down. Any help would be very welcomed!
10/21/2013 5:38:57 AM EDT
[#1]
If it's on metal you can use acetone.

Or you can take your chances with really hot water if it's not on metal, or metal coated with rubber/plastic.

ETA

From looking at it again, I'd probably try to lightly scrub it off using a pipecleaner dipped in acetone.
10/21/2013 5:49:42 AM EDT
[#2]
A bit of acetone will clean up the old LocTite.
Is bedding a base necessary? Depends on the base/reciever fit. A good rule of thumb-snug down the base using only the front screws. Check the rear of the mount to see what kind of contact you have with the receiver. If you can slide a piece of paper or a .002 feeler gauge between the two bedding the base is not a bad idea.
Bedding a base is simple, rough up the bottom of the base for a good mechanical bond and take your Devcon and bed it. Don't forget release compound on the receiver, screws and screw holes or its gonna be an ugly day.
Snug down the front screws and just barely snug the rear-you are trying to achieve a stress free base so let the Devcon fill the inconsistencies.
10/21/2013 8:13:44 PM EDT
[#3]
Ragged screw hole edges can be cleaned up by spinning a drill in the hole.  

Use a sharp drill that is larger than the drilled hole, say 1/4 inch or 5/16th's inch, and simply spin it in the hole with your fingers to break the edge.

Don't bear down.  Lots of force will result in an obvious ovalized edge break, wider on the ends that at the centerline of the action.


11/6/2013 5:12:58 AM EDT
[#4]
I have had good luck using a plastic scraper to catch the edge and then pick it out with a needle. for inside screw holes just find a tap with the proper thread. if you miss one little spot its no big deal, but if you have some threads loaded up just below the surface its going to be a pain to thread new screws in.
11/6/2013 5:15:16 AM EDT
[#5]
Those are 6-48 threads, btw.
11/6/2013 3:02:40 PM EDT
[#6]
I think Loctite says you're supposed to use methylene chloride.

HighSpeedSteel
11/6/2013 5:34:59 PM EDT
[#7]
I've always just been able to chip it off
11/7/2013 9:48:12 AM EDT
[#8]
Butane Micro Torch to heat up just the old loctite and metal it's bonded to does the trick every time.

The loctite breaks down at 550* and will flick off once heated to this low heart, and a little lube after you have leached out the old oils on the metal from the heat will have you back right as rain.
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