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Posted: 2/22/2015 5:51:26 PM EDT
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Well folks, it's looking good. I have the module chosos sold me along with a psu from an atn mk7900 that was not lighting up properly. Paired to he l3 module it seems to do pretty good. I have the assembly soldered and inserted into a boot. I couldn't help myself so I istalled the half finish tube into a pvs14 housing and fired it up, images below in a dark bathroom, only light was the ipad so it was actually fairly bright but gives a good image in very dark conditions as well. Not as good as an omni vii but darn good just the same. Please excuse the dirt and crap all over the output screen.
Last step will be the elastomer. Im fairly confident that if the tube functions without any elastomer it should function with the elastomer. But hey, I'm not working in a certified clean room with "proper equipment" so who knows lol. 
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Well, I had a great plan that didn't come together. I had difficulty filling the tube with elastomer and keeping it from leaking out the fill hole. I used a fat anvis sleeve but the stuff leaked out between the sleeve and tube. Had to top off a couple of times after noticing the elastomer had receded below the lip of the boot. Vacuumed it a couple of times/topped off. It's sitting in a c clamp now to dry, fingers crossed. I'm confident there are air bubbles. I learned a lot at least on this first try, so at least there's that.
If it's a fail the destructive analysis should be interesting. |
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Quoted:
Well, I had a great plan that didn't come together. I had difficulty filling the tube with elastomer and keeping it from leaking out the fill hole. I used a fat anvis sleeve but the stuff leaked out between the sleeve and tube. Had to top off a couple of times after noticing the elastomer had receded below the lip of the boot. Vacuumed it a couple of times/topped off. It's sitting in a c clamp now to dry, fingers crossed. I'm confident there are air bubbles. I learned a lot at least on this first try, so at least there's that. If it's a fail the destructive analysis should be interesting. Let me preface this by saying, I have no clue what I am talking about BUT.... Why not just put the elastometer onto the module/PSU bundle and then jus t slide it into the boot? rathar than filling the boot then pressing the module/psu down? G. |
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Let me preface this by saying, I have no clue what I am talking about BUT.... Why not just put the elastometer onto the module/PSU bundle and then jus t slide it into the boot? rathar than filling the boot then pressing the module/psu down? G. Quoted:
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Well, I had a great plan that didn't come together. I had difficulty filling the tube with elastomer and keeping it from leaking out the fill hole. I used a fat anvis sleeve but the stuff leaked out between the sleeve and tube. Had to top off a couple of times after noticing the elastomer had receded below the lip of the boot. Vacuumed it a couple of times/topped off. It's sitting in a c clamp now to dry, fingers crossed. I'm confident there are air bubbles. I learned a lot at least on this first try, so at least there's that. If it's a fail the destructive analysis should be interesting. Let me preface this by saying, I have no clue what I am talking about BUT.... Why not just put the elastometer onto the module/PSU bundle and then jus t slide it into the boot? rathar than filling the boot then pressing the module/psu down? G. The elastomer is the consistency of heavy whipping cream. It has to be applied once everything is together, at least that's my understanding. |
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The elastomer is the consistency of heavy whipping cream. It has to be applied once everything is together, at least that's my understanding. Quoted:
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Well, I had a great plan that didn't come together. I had difficulty filling the tube with elastomer and keeping it from leaking out the fill hole. I used a fat anvis sleeve but the stuff leaked out between the sleeve and tube. Had to top off a couple of times after noticing the elastomer had receded below the lip of the boot. Vacuumed it a couple of times/topped off. It's sitting in a c clamp now to dry, fingers crossed. I'm confident there are air bubbles. I learned a lot at least on this first try, so at least there's that. If it's a fail the destructive analysis should be interesting. Let me preface this by saying, I have no clue what I am talking about BUT.... Why not just put the elastometer onto the module/PSU bundle and then jus t slide it into the boot? rathar than filling the boot then pressing the module/psu down? G. The elastomer is the consistency of heavy whipping cream. It has to be applied once everything is together, at least that's my understanding. So its a liquid? G. |
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So its a liquid? G. Quoted:
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Well, I had a great plan that didn't come together. I had difficulty filling the tube with elastomer and keeping it from leaking out the fill hole. I used a fat anvis sleeve but the stuff leaked out between the sleeve and tube. Had to top off a couple of times after noticing the elastomer had receded below the lip of the boot. Vacuumed it a couple of times/topped off. It's sitting in a c clamp now to dry, fingers crossed. I'm confident there are air bubbles. I learned a lot at least on this first try, so at least there's that. If it's a fail the destructive analysis should be interesting. Let me preface this by saying, I have no clue what I am talking about BUT.... Why not just put the elastometer onto the module/PSU bundle and then jus t slide it into the boot? rathar than filling the boot then pressing the module/psu down? G. The elastomer is the consistency of heavy whipping cream. It has to be applied once everything is together, at least that's my understanding. So its a liquid? G. Correct. |
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So... do you feel that if you were starting the project again today that you have learned enough to get it right? I'll know more tomorrow when I try to fire it up, but yes there are at least three changes I would make to the way I filled the tube. The other difficult thing to accept is there is no way to really know for sure if I got it right without tearing it all apart and checking for bubbles. I think it would be more right the next time. |
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Quoted: I'll know more tomorrow when I try to fire it up, but yes there are at least three changes I would make to the way I filled the tube. The other difficult thing to accept is there is no way to really know for sure if I got it right without tearing it all apart and checking for bubbles. I think it would be more right the next time. Quoted: Quoted: So... do you feel that if you were starting the project again today that you have learned enough to get it right? I'll know more tomorrow when I try to fire it up, but yes there are at least three changes I would make to the way I filled the tube. The other difficult thing to accept is there is no way to really know for sure if I got it right without tearing it all apart and checking for bubbles. I think it would be more right the next time. Meh, from your description I am going to say it will work - Elastomer is a bitch the first time :) It's easier once you know what you're doing. BTW, it should be about the consistency of milk, not cream - If it's thicker than milk then it's too thick. But it will still probably work. It's easy enough to get of the screen - It may not be pretty by my money is on function ! Regards David |
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Thanks for the encouragement David. When I set my mind to doing something I like to have as many variables worked out before hand as possible. That elastomer is filled with variables!
I'm not sure what I could have done to make it too thick. 50/50 exactly, 8 ml each. The elastomer looks to have set, so I will assemble and test. |
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Success!
I think I have the pots adjusted well for this module. Seems to be as bright as my known good tube with about the same quantity of scintillation in really dark conditions. The only odd thing, and I noticed this during testing, is that this tube takes 1-2 seconds to fire up, unlike my other tubes that seem to go in less than a second. This is only after it has sat for a while. Once it's turn on and off, it will fire up instantly the next time. 
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Quoted:
Success! I think I have the pots adjusted well for this module. Seems to be as bright as my known good tube with about the same quantity of scintillation in really dark conditions. The only odd thing, and I noticed this during testing, is that this tube takes 1-2 seconds to fire up, unlike my other tubes that seem to go in less than a second. This is only after it has sat for a while. Once it's turn on and off, it will fire up instantly the next time. http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/633/mz3HVC.jpg My L3 autogated MX10160 is the same; it takes 1 second to power up, and it whines for that second while its powering up, then it goes silent and remains bright. G. |
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My L3 autogated MX10160 is the same; it takes 1 second to power up, and it whines for that second while its powering up, then it goes silent and remains bright. G. Quoted:
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Success! I think I have the pots adjusted well for this module. Seems to be as bright as my known good tube with about the same quantity of scintillation in really dark conditions. The only odd thing, and I noticed this during testing, is that this tube takes 1-2 seconds to fire up, unlike my other tubes that seem to go in less than a second. This is only after it has sat for a while. Once it's turn on and off, it will fire up instantly the next time. http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/633/mz3HVC.jpg My L3 autogated MX10160 is the same; it takes 1 second to power up, and it whines for that second while its powering up, then it goes silent and remains bright. G. Interesting. I suppose it just takes a little while for it to build up voltage? |
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I've had L3 tubes that take a couple of seconds to both power-on AND power-off. I had one tube that I could still see through, albeit dimly, for a good 10 seconds after turning it off. Thank you for chiming in on that. This tube also takes a few sec to dim out. I only noticed because I turned it off while looking at the red led on our television. I could see it through the tube for a good 4-5 sec after powering down. The module is l3 for sure, the psu is autogated and made by ITT I think. |
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I had an opportunity last year to buy a small box of about 200 dead tubes pulled from PVS-14's by a .MIL service depot where all they did was replace the tubes.
They wanted $1,000 for the box, but at the time I thought that was ridiculous. I mean, really, what could someone do with 200 dead Omni V-VII Gen 3 tubes? 
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I had an opportunity last year to buy a small box of about 200 dead tubes pulled from PVS-14's by a .MIL service depot where all they did was replace the tubes. They wanted $1,000 for the box, but at the time I thought that was ridiculous. I mean, really, what could someone do with 200 dead Omni V-VII Gen 3 tubes? I would have offered $500 on the box, because I can always use another box.  
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Quoted: I would have offered $500 on the box, because I can always use another box. Quoted: Quoted: I had an opportunity last year to buy a small box of about 200 dead tubes pulled from PVS-14's by a .MIL service depot where all they did was replace the tubes. They wanted $1,000 for the box, but at the time I thought that was ridiculous. I mean, really, what could someone do with 200 dead Omni V-VII Gen 3 tubes? I would have offered $500 on the box, because I can always use another box. LoL ! A box of faulty tubes would yield many functional tubes if repaired. Congratulations on the first successful repot - Now you've done it, I think you would have ideas on how to deal with the issues - It's not until you have the stuff leaking everywhere that you finally appreciate how difficult it is - but it's also quick to learn from. Having coated all the parts well in the process, it's probably quite well insulated - Regards David |
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I've had L3 tubes that take a couple of seconds to both power-on AND power-off. I had one tube that I could still see through, albeit dimly, for a good 10 seconds after turning it off. My L3 tube is like that; I can see bright spots for a good 15 seconds after its powered off. G. |
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