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Posted: 1/10/2012 6:55:52 PM EDT
Found this while searching, thought you might find it entertaining .
From TM 31-210 Improvised Munitions Handbook: http://www.libertyreferences.com/reusable-primer.shtml |
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Recently there was a thread somewhere on primer problems. The primerd were not lighting off AA1680. The problem was traced to undepowered berdan primers.
If factory primers might lack to poop to light off smokeless powder, then I would have little if any faith in match heads. |
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Quoted:
Recently there was a thread somewhere on primer problems. The primerd were not lighting off AA1680. The problem was traced to undepowered berdan primers. If factory primers might lack to poop to light off smokeless powder, then I would have little if any faith in match heads. IIRC problem was seating depth. OP hasn't updated with latest results yet. |
I had one failure to completely ignite AA 2200 Data powder with ULY steel case was it due to a pierced primer? don't know. Tula 24KVN, temp was 20 deg, Yugo 59/66 with Rem 125 gr SP. That is when I found the aggravation of trying to disassemble a Yugo bolt to remove the damaged firing pin. The firing pin had come back against the stop cross pin hard enough to burr it and jam it in the channel. Removing the cross pin took a 3 lb sledge and a vice, 1 broken pin punch , one bent nailset and a lot of whacks to remove it  I guess they don't want soldiers to take a firing pin out, only armorers
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Quoted:
I had one failure to completely ignite AA 2200 Data powder with ULY steel case was it due to a pierced primer? don't know. Tula 24KVN, temp was 20 deg, Yugo 59/66 with Rem 125 gr SP. That is when I found the aggravation of trying to disassemble a Yugo bolt to remove the damaged firing pin. The firing pin had come back against the stop cross pin hard enough to burr it and jam it in the channel. Removing the cross pin took a 3 lb sledge and a vice, 1 broken pin punch , one bent nailset and a lot of whacks to remove it I guess they don't want soldiers to take a firing pin out, only armorersThe Yugo 59/66 firing pin is varnished in place, it gets easier to remove after the first time, a method to remove it is to set it on top of a nut so there is clearence beneath it, no vise required. |
The vice with padded jaws was just to hold it steady. Mine had no varnish in the cross pin hole. Probably due to the fact the previous owner had removed the cosmoline by soaking the metal parts in gasoline for two weeks IT took a lot of work with an emery cloth & Arkansas stone to get the firing pin and cross pin to go back in place (without a sledgehammer
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Many years ago when this article was being sold at gun shows for a buck, I bought the pamphlet. It came with other ideas for home making shooting devices.
I did make a few of the primers just for giggles and they worked. Corrosive as all get out, but they did work. I only tried them with IMR-4895 powder. I also tried the plastic caps you could buy for toy pistols. The pellet in these caps worked very well and was a drop in fit in the large rifle primer. While serving no purpose for today's market, it was just a "I wonder if it will work?" They did. |
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