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Posted: 2/19/2017 2:43:02 AM EDT
Hi well I had to give my inside gun room up .. . . very sad. everything has to go in the garage in a sub-room. This room has a lot of humidity and when it rains . . . don't get me started. In the past, i dropped in my safe rechargeable desiccant eva dry (X 3) in the same location wasn't enough to beat the rust and I had to turn to Eezox. I'd like to prevent this and stay way from the Eezox. Other than a 55-gallon drum of desiccant. Would 2200 sqf professional Dehumidifier that drains into bucket work? My safe is a huge TRTL-60 government safe I won at auction that doesn't have any access other than a coin drop so I can't get a golden rod in .
 
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So many products to protect against corrosion. You want a barrier film that stays in place. Oils can run off and WD40 evaporates. I use Corrosion X for guns, which is an oil that maintains a film, I shoot or handle often. For long term protection that will need some cleaning before shooting, there is good old RIG universal. RIG is a grease that is rumored to be Cosmoline thinned with vasoline. It worked well for me in FL and an unconditioned house in VA. Corrosion X will only require a dry patch prior to shooting and I have blued guns that I neglect longer that I should, a year or more, rust free for more than a year with the Corrosion X. If you are protecting, preserving guns with oil finished stocks, avoid silicones. When you want to add a coat of oil, silicone really interferes with it penetrating the wood.
If you are dehumidifying with dessecants you need to have good seals on your door to minimize air circulating in and out of your safe. I would also find a way to put some heat inside. My garage safe temperature swing lags about 10 degrees of ambient with a 30 watt 100 degree regulated heater during cold season. Without the heater it lags as much as 40 degrees. |
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Quoted:
Despite the internet trying to change 50+ years of history, WD-40 works well in this situation. Just keep it off wood parts. I love it when guys bring me firearms that won't work. I dig into them and find that 99% of the time it's simply because they're gummed up to the point that function is impossible. When I ask what they're using for gun oil, the answer is always "WD-40". That stuff is great for nuts and bolt, door hinges, and works great as a cutting fluid for aluminum but has no place in the gun room. To the OP - I run a dehumidifier in my gun vault 24/7/365 and have absolutely no rust issues. I only wipe down used firearms with an oily rag and store; no spray and wipe. It can get pretty humid here but I have never had problems with rust. I also run a separate dehumidifier in the basement so may be overkilling this a bit. Better safe than sorry, I figure. |
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I'd also run it to a drain.
Put some rechargeable dessicants inside the safe. Get some Vapor Phase inhibitors also VPI/VCI |
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Quoted:
I love it when guys bring me firearms that won't work. I dig into them and find that 99% of the time it's simply because they're gummed up to the point that function is impossible. When I ask what they're using for gun oil, the answer is always "WD-40". That stuff is great for nuts and bolt, door hinges, and works great as a cutting fluid for aluminum but has no place in the gun room. Quoted:
Quoted:
Despite the internet trying to change 50+ years of history, WD-40 works well in this situation. Just keep it off wood parts. I love it when guys bring me firearms that won't work. I dig into them and find that 99% of the time it's simply because they're gummed up to the point that function is impossible. When I ask what they're using for gun oil, the answer is always "WD-40". That stuff is great for nuts and bolt, door hinges, and works great as a cutting fluid for aluminum but has no place in the gun room. 
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I just wipe mine down with an oily rag (either 3n1 oil or Mobil 1). I had rifles, shotguns and handguns in my attic here in central VA for over 30 years. Not a bit of rust on any of them. My M29 sat in the factory wood box/case and the blue lining deteriorated to pieces and the surface still didn't rust.
You wipe them down with the oily rag/cloth and then don't TOUCH them with your salty/sweaty/skin oily fingers/hands. It's worked for me since I got my first shotgun at the age of 12 (Ithaca M37 that still looks like a new shotgun (had to refinish the stock but that's what happens when you carry one that many miles over the years in all kinds of weather). |
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Quoted:
So many products to protect against corrosion. You want a barrier film that stays in place. Oils can run off and WD40 evaporates. I use Corrosion X for guns, which is an oil that maintains a film, I shoot or handle often. For long term protection that will need some cleaning before shooting, there is good old RIG universal. RIG is a grease that is rumored to be Cosmoline thinned with vasoline. It worked well for me in FL and an unconditioned house in VA. Corrosion X will only require a dry patch prior to shooting and I have blued guns that I neglect longer that I should, a year or more, rust free for more than a year with the Corrosion X. If you are protecting, preserving guns with oil finished stocks, avoid silicones. When you want to add a coat of oil, silicone really interferes with it penetrating the wood. If you are dehumidifying with dessecants you need to have good seals on your door to minimize air circulating in and out of your safe. I would also find a way to put some heat inside. My garage safe temperature swing lags about 10 degrees of ambient with a 30 watt 100 degree regulated heater during cold season. Without the heater it lags as much as 40 degrees. |
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Quoted:
So many products to protect against corrosion. You want a barrier film that stays in place. Oils can run off and WD40 evaporates. I use Corrosion X for guns, which is an oil that maintains a film, I shoot or handle often. For long term protection that will need some cleaning before shooting, there is good old RIG universal. RIG is a grease that is rumored to be Cosmoline thinned with vasoline. It worked well for me in FL and an unconditioned house in VA. Corrosion X will only require a dry patch prior to shooting and I have blued guns that I neglect longer that I should, a year or more, rust free for more than a year with the Corrosion X. If you are protecting, preserving guns with oil finished stocks, avoid silicones. When you want to add a coat of oil, silicone really interferes with it penetrating the wood. If you are dehumidifying with dessecants you need to have good seals on your door to minimize air circulating in and out of your safe. I would also find a way to put some heat inside. My garage safe temperature swing lags about 10 degrees of ambient with a 30 watt 100 degree regulated heater during cold season. Without the heater it lags as much as 40 degrees. OP- While I could echo what wingsnthings said, I'll just add to it. My second gun mentor taught me about RIG and I've used it ever since. I've also lived across our fruited plane and it has served me well. I have learned to let an oil penetrate the moving parts prior to operating a neglected gun, folding knife, etc. Desiccants are mandatory for safes and other storage locations. |
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