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Posted: 3/5/2012 4:57:18 PM EDT
| Ok, so I didn't look close enough and the Pietta Remington 1858 I just picked up has rust in the barrel. Fortunately, the price was right, and the rifling still looks strong, but I need it out. Brush, Kroil, swab, Kroil Brush Swab. Any other suggestions? Most of it seems to be surface, but I'll bet that when I'm done there will be a couple of areas of frosting. The pistol is in otherwise very nice shape. |
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Shoot it and don't worry about the pitting. Black powder guns are very very forgiving of this sort of thing.
The organization I shoot with has many members shooting original Civil War guns that have what I used to think was really bad pitting and they shoot great. Enjoy it and if you use real black powder you only need some warm soapy water to clean with and a quick coat of oil afterwards. Many people have the misconception that Pyrodex is less corrosive than black powder but that is totally untrue. |
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Quoted:
Many people have the misconception that Pyrodex is less corrosive than black powder but that is totally untrue. +1 Pyrodex will frost a barrel much more quickly then real black. I know... It only took a delay of 7 hours between firing and cleaning for me to frost my 1860 Colt barrel with Pyrodex. I'd waited similar times when using real black many times with no ill effects. |
| Shot groups today, best was three rounds touching at 10 yards. This thing has great accuracy potential. Now another question, how many rounds between field cleanings. after about 24 shots, the cylinder started to bind from fouling. Is this about normal? I was using Pyrodex 30gr pellets, wonder wad and 454 round ball. |
| It is very typical for cylinder to start binding. Did you use grease or oil on the cylinder pin? I find I can shoot longer if I use heavy wheel grease. I still max out at around 60 shots with last few cylinders getting poetry stiff and requiring a little assistance to spin. |
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