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Posted: 8/17/2012 2:12:20 PM EDT
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I just got tooled up for my 5.56 loads and wanted to get a good load development for my 10.5'' LMT upper. First, should i do the initial development on a 16'' upper and stick with that FPS and just run it in the 10.5''? I feel if i do a load development and get a good hot load(2900fps) for the 10.5'' that it will over pressure in the 16''. I would like to run the ammo in both without issues.
Mixed MilSurp brass from Apex Brass Hornady 55gr SP W/c Ramshot TAC Wolf 5.56 primmers(dont know exact model number) |
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Uncle Sam only has 2 basic flavor of ammo.. M193 and M855. There is no distinction of M193 for 20", 11.5", or 10.5" rifles. They use the same ammo. You best to work your loads in the 16" rifle to known correct velocity range/function for the 16", then put mag of ammo the 10" and run.
I worked my 844 loads using a COLT 20" 1x7 barrel and chrono, then feed same ammo to my 7 & 11" rifles. |
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Quoted:
Uncle Sam only has 2 basic flavor of ammo.. M193 and M855. There is no distinction of M193 for 20", 11.5", or 10.5" rifles. They use the same ammo. You best to work your loads in the 16" rifle to known correct velocity range/function for the 16", then put mag of ammo the 10" and run. I worked my 844 loads using a COLT 20" 1x7 barrel and chrono, then feed same ammo to my 7 & 11" rifles. That's what I was thinking. After I posted that, I read that they use black hills 262 mod1 in both the spr and the mk18s. It is somewhat of a hot round even though its 77grs. |
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Quoted:
Uncle Sam only has 2 basic flavor of ammo.. M193 and M855. There is no distinction of M193 for 20", 11.5", or 10.5" rifles. They use the same ammo. You best to work your loads in the 16" rifle to known correct velocity range/function for the 16", then put mag of ammo the 10" and run. I worked my 844 loads using a COLT 20" 1x7 barrel and chrono, then feed same ammo to my 7 & 11" rifles. That's what I was thinking about doing since the only 5.56 I have is a 10.5 SBR that I shoot 90% of the time with the other being a 14.5 SOCOM upper. Since I'm loading up plinking ammo and want to get the most out of the 844 kegs that I have would it be ok to make a "lighter" load for the SBR? I would think a load like that would be cleaner and easier on my can since I only shoot with it on. |
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Quoted: I just got tooled up for my 5.56 loads and wanted to get a good load development for my 10.5'' LMT upper. First, should i do the initial development on a 16'' upper and stick with that FPS and just run it in the 10.5''? I feel if i do a load development and get a good hot load(2900fps) for the 10.5'' that it will over pressure in the 16''. I would like to run the ammo in both without issues. Mixed MilSurp brass from Apex Brass Hornady 55gr SP W/c Ramshot TAC Wolf 5.56 primmers(dont know exact model number) Hope you got the Wolf KVB 556M. That's the correct Wolf primer for your load. eta pic  |
| Just a quick reminder that LMT uppers use a smaller gas return hole, therefore you will need a hotte load to properly cycle the rifle. If you are getting ftf or poor extraction you will have to work the load hotter. My LMT 10.5 usually won't run the steel stuff, wolf, Tula, bear, etc. It also doesn't always run some of the lighter brass .223. My loads for my 10.5 are a bit hotter than my other uppers. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
I just got tooled up for my 5.56 loads and wanted to get a good load development for my 10.5'' LMT upper. First, should i do the initial development on a 16'' upper and stick with that FPS and just run it in the 10.5''? I feel if i do a load development and get a good hot load(2900fps) for the 10.5'' that it will over pressure in the 16''. I would like to run the ammo in both without issues. Mixed MilSurp brass from Apex Brass Hornady 55gr SP W/c Ramshot TAC Wolf 5.56 primmers(dont know exact model number) Hope you got the Wolf KVB 556M. That's the correct Wolf primer for your load. eta pic yes those are the ones. They are the 5.56 semi auto rated. From what I have read, being semi auto rated prevents slam fires. Is that correct? |
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Quoted:
Just a quick reminder that LMT uppers use a smaller gas return hole, therefore you will need a hotte load to properly cycle the rifle. If you are getting ftf or poor extraction you will have to work the load hotter. My LMT 10.5 usually won't run the steel stuff, wolf, Tula, bear, etc. It also doesn't always run some of the lighter brass .223. My loads for my 10.5 are a bit hotter than my other uppers. Steel cased ammo was the first thing I ran through my LMT and it ran flawless. I even ran the monarch ammo through it just to see and it was fine. Until now with starting to hand load 5.56, I predominantly ran steel for training purposes. |
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Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: I just got tooled up for my 5.56 loads and wanted to get a good load development for my 10.5'' LMT upper. First, should i do the initial development on a 16'' upper and stick with that FPS and just run it in the 10.5''? I feel if i do a load development and get a good hot load(2900fps) for the 10.5'' that it will over pressure in the 16''. I would like to run the ammo in both without issues. Mixed MilSurp brass from Apex Brass Hornady 55gr SP W/c Ramshot TAC Wolf 5.56 primmers(dont know exact model number) Hope you got the Wolf KVB 556M. That's the correct Wolf primer for your load. eta pic yes those are the ones. They are the 5.56 semi auto rated. From what I have read, being semi auto rated prevents slam fires. Is that correct? What prevents slam fires is seating primers to below flush with the case head. .002 to .004. I check every round I reload for correct primer seating.
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Don't over think load development for an SBR. Now the gun may like a hotter load and be less forgiving on what it will eat than a 16" but it also may run fine. Gas port pressure and dwell time are different things than peak pressure. Of course every gun is different but if a load is too hot for the 16" it is going to be too hot for the 10.5" Do you mean getting 2900fps out of the 10.5" I don't think you can get that fast safely.
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Went to the range today. Started at 24.7grs of TAC and worked all the way up to 26.2grs. I wish i had a chronograph and took pictures but MY best grouping was at 25.8grs. Test gun was a 16'' Stag Arms with carbine length gas system. Optic was a Leupold VXR-Patrol 1-4x30 at 50 yards. Group yielded just a little over 1/2'' at 50 yards and did not test beyond that range. i havent had time to run any through my sbr but that will come here shortly when i load some more up.
One thing i did notice when loading the rounds is that the bullet does not just sit on top of the brass. I have to hold the bullet all the way till it makes contact with the die. Is there enough neck tension that i would not have to crimp? I am using a RCBS AR die set that recommends just the smallest amount of crimp to ensure no setback. Thanks guys for all your input and advice. |
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You should hand guide bullets into the seating die, that's normal. Measure your expander button in your sizing die. For a .224 bullet, it should measure .221 to .222 for good neck tension. With good neck tension, crimping is optional. Your choice. In 223, I lightly crimp FMJ 55 and 62 gr bullets with a cannelure. Everything else and especially match bullets, no crimp.
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