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Trigger pull is regulated by a spring that runs along the right side of the trigger. That spring is a tempered straight wire, not a coil. One end of the straight spring fits into a tiny screw with a hole down the center. To reduce trigger pull, screw the screw in a quarter turn at a time and test trigger pull after each quarter turn. To increase trigger pull, screw it out. At the opposite end of the straight spring, you'll see a tiny trigger arm resting against the spring. It is critical that the spring apply tension against that tiny arm. If it doesn't, the rifle will fire when bumped. After you have adjusted the trigger pull, you need to test to make sure the rifle will not fire when bumped. I use a rubber mallet and whack the side of the receiver. Below is a link to instructions and a diagram. www.varminthunters.com/tech/savage110trigger.html |
Yeah, Savage triggers are kinda tricky to get right. It's a primitive design. I got mine almost perfect but it would sometimes fire when closing the bolt. I kept adjusting it until it was safe to shoot every time, but the trigger didn't feel the same every time and I could never get the creep out of it, so I eventually replaced it with a SS trigger. Been happy with it ever since.
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I kept adjusting it until it was safe to shoot every time, but the trigger didn't feel the same every time and I could never get the creep out of it, so I eventually replaced it with a SS trigger. Been happy with it ever since.