This my way.....your way may differ......
Here is my .02 on the subject of “production loading” of rifle cartridges, for my “gas guns.“ Let’s start with “once fired” LC military cases, in whatever number of cases you want for your, “lot.”
1) Clean the cases. I use a liquid brass cleaner (Birchwood Casey # 33845 CCI). Follow the mixing instructions on the package. After the soak/cleaning, the cases are removed from the solution and air dried. The solution is re-usable. IF, you wanted to use an oven for drying, use the lowest heat setting.
Why a liquid brass cleaner? Well, it eliminates the need to buy a tumbler (or vibratory machine). I don’t have to buy media and I save on electricity. There is the added bonus of no noise and/or dust in my work space. And, if I were to tumble/clean de-primed brass, I would have to worry about stuck media in primer pockets and flash holes.
2) With once fired military brass, this next step only has to be done once. De-cap the once fired military brass using a skinny nail/punch and anvil (with a hole in it, large enough for the old primer to fall out of, but still support the case rim). Or, buy the LEE military primer de-capper set (#90102-.30 cal., #90103-.22 cal.). Simply, run the nail/punch down through the case neck. The nail will enter the flash hole and rest against the old primer. Put the case on the anvil (old primer centered over the anvil’s hole). Then, with a hammer knock out the old primer, letting the old primer fall through the hole in the anvil. Yes, the military crimp is sometimes that stubborn.
3) Again, since we’re using once fired military brass, this next step has to be done only once. The primer crimp will need to be removed. The crimp gets either swaged or reamed/cut. My friend has a Dillon swage and I use a Lyman hand reamer/cutting tool. Both can do the job......one is cheaper. Lyman hand reamer (#7777785 Large, #7777784 Small). I do the crimp removal while watching TV. It's as simple as: pick up a case, insert the tool into the primer pocket and twist, remove case, next.....
*Commercial cases, usually don't have a primer crimp to bother with. So, steps 2 and 3 can be omitted. Likewise, for the next time you load these “already treated” military cases.
4) Next, is lubing the cases. I use a spray lube on the outside of the cases......not too much......and not too little. As you re-load more and more, you'll get better at judging the amount needed. You don't want dimples on the shoulders of your cases (too much lube) and you don't want a stuck case in your die (not enough lube). I simply lay a single layer of cases on a piece of cardboard and spray. Shake the cardboard a little and spray the cases again.
5) Also, I like to use a little bit of mica inside of the case neck, just so I don't have to hear the "squeak." Not every case gets the mica. You can feel it and hear it, when you're getting to the point of having to add more mica. I use a Forster original case graphiter (#011341). IF you have a carbide neck expander button you won't need the mica.
6) I use a single station press (RCBS Rock Chucker). You could use a progressive Dillon IF you wanted to. It's a personal choice. But, with whatever press you choose, consider shell plate/shell holder and/or press "flex.” I use a regular FL size/de-capper die, NOT the small base dies. To begin, FL size and de-cap, 1 or 2 cases for a test. Gauge the re-sized case(s), to confirm that the "correct size" has been achieved. I use a Forster Products case gauge (the Wilson gauge is also a popular choice). Insert a case into the die, the case needs to be between the high and low cuts on the gauge to pass. The base end, checks the headspace, while the other end, is used to check if the case will need to be trimmed (a job for later on). IF, it’s not the “correct size,” your die setting will need adjustment. Lower the ram and simply screw the die in or out a little. Don’t forget about the lock nut. Then, re-size another couple of test cases and check your work again. Repeat the test and adjustments, as needed. When you're satisfied that your test cases are properly re-sized, do the entire lot.
7) Clean off the case lube. Either with another soak in Birchwood Casey cleaner or a quick wipe off with a cloth dampened in solvent.
8) IF needed, I'll trim the cases with a Gracey trimmer (it’ll trim, chamfer, and de-burr in a single operation). Remember, we are doing this as a "lot." So, IF one case needs a trim......they all get a run through the trimmer.
More info on the Gracey Trimmer
http://www.matchprep.com/
9) While you're holding the cases......inspect them for, "other problems." Splits or impending case separation. IF, I see it or suspect it......the whole lot may get dumped (or just a few). With my 7.62x51 NATO brass, I don’t anneal, I’ll usually get 3 re-loads out of a case. IMHO…..a 4th would be, "pushing it."
10) Some old primer residue may still be left in the primer pocket. It’s optional to clean it. I use a LEE primer pocket cleaner (#90101). It flips over to do both large and small primer pockets. Insert the tool into the primer pocket and twist.
Also optional, is to de-burr and make the flash hole a uniform size. The tool is a simple device that is inserted through the case neck. An adjustable flange on the shaft prevents it from going any further into the case. A quick twist and the job is done.
More info on Preparing Cases For Long Range Accuracy
http://www.6mmbr.com/jgcaseprep.html
11) My cases are then primed w/ a handheld LEE Auto Prime tool (#90230). It comes with both large and small primer rods. But, you'll have to purchase the correct shell holder(s) for your caliber of choice.
12) Then, it all gets loaded, as usual (powder is measured and dropped into the case, bullet gets placed and bullet gets seated).
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Aloha, Mark
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