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Posted: 2/24/2013 10:00:12 AM EDT
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I just want to make sure this is normal before I get too far. This is on my Hornady LNL.
I'm using Dillion case lube. When I pull down on the handle, sizing the case, I feel that it takes a some effort of course. But here's what I'm concerned about. When I'm am raising the handle back up, releasing the case,, I get to where it takes a little effort there too. It's not like a stuck case, but it does take some effort to get it out of the die, or off the spindle,,, which ever it is. I do get one every so often that is effortless. Is this normal. Speaking of the spindle. I have the Hornady die with the Zip Spindle. The instruction's say to tighten the spindle lock until the spindle no longer turns. But I can still turn the spindle freely. Which I don't think matters since I all ready decapped with the Lee die. I actually lower the spindle every so often to make sure that it is lubed. 1. Is my sizing procedure correct. 2. Should the zip spindle be locked down tight. |
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I'd say you are safe... there should be a couple spots of "drag".
On the down stroke there might be drag where the neck uniforming ball goes down and also some when the shoulders are being bumped; as well as the case walls being put back into spec. On the upstroke, there should again be some drag as the ball pulls back through the neck. This is what can also lengthen the neck and why you trim after resizing. And the reason some are tougher than others usually has to do with different neck thicknesses. Can't say much on the spindle issue, never used that setup. |
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It's kind of subjective for us to judge "a little effort". If you think it's too much use some more case lube. With Dillon lube or the home made version, I put the cases in a zip lock bag, give it a few squirts, shake the bag and dump it in the case feeder. Brass processing is nearly effortless.
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Quoted:
Be sure your die I down about one more turn past touching the plate so you overcam, otherwise you'll run into case gage issues. At least I did. Hmmm. Unless I'm reading the instruction's wrong, they say do just the opposite. What kind of issue's did you have. Copy any pasted: To adjust the full-length size die, follow these steps: 1. Raise the press ram to highest position without camming over. 2. Thread the full-length die into the press until the base touches the shell holder head. 3. Tighten the lock ring against the press and tighten the set screw with the allen wrench. (Note: Firearm action types and chamber dimensions vary causing excess headspace. To eliminate the headspace, adjust the full-length die upward.) |
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Same instructions I had with the hornady FL dies. The issue was if you throw them in the case gage and run your finger over the top it should be level or dip slightly(mine was above just barely and this caused feed issues for my ar)
Then run finger along groove and you should feel a bump otherwise they are too small if they dip I have mine set to bump with the groove and be flat with the top of a case gage and they chamber like a dream now, if memory serves me right i was reading somewhere that when they are EVEN with the top then technically they are at optimal position against your bolt (i.e. no wiggle room) and this helps with accuracy. of course you can be below the top area and above the groove and in spec, but this means the case will have some bump back before it hits the carrier, which it will do that first before it starts to expand in the chamber. I'm sure someone will pipe up if i've incorrectly stated this. |
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Quoted:
Having a Wilson or Dillon case gage is fantastic thing to have if you are reloading for multiple guns. I'd go as far to say even one gun! I won't reload without one! This. I use the gage to set up my sizer, and then I gage EVERY SINGLE LOADED ROUND that I make. Cheap insurance against malfunctions while on the range. |
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the only funnny thing maybe some veteran LNL AP reloaders can chime in on about is the overcam setup on the press. Almost every video I see shows turning the die down to the point that it touches the plate then backing off just a little maybe 1/4 turn to see some daylight between it and the die.
My experience is this doesn't size right for whatever reason, that i actually have to turn it down to touch the plate, then down some more maybe 1/4 to 1/2 to produce what i think is called cam over where you have to press through the kissing of the plate and die. Once i did this everything sized properly. so i'm wondering with all the videos i've watched how they are getting good sizing without doing this. as for the case gage, yeah check 100% of your rounds. I do that, much better to catch it then, than out at the range. |
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