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Posted: 5/29/2004 8:24:44 PM EDT
| I am awaiting my very own CMP Garand, but do not have much experience with this rifle. I have an AR-15, and no what kind stuff I need to support it, cleaning kit etc, but have no idea what I'll need for a Garand. I'm fairly certain I'll need a cleaning kit of some kind, but what else might I need? Thanks for any information in advance. |
| CLP, Bore snake in 30 cal, Dewey 30 cal rod, brushes and jags, I like Butch's Bore Shine, muzzle guide because the M1 cannot be cleaned from the breech with a rod, 50 cal mop for the gas cylinder, chamber brush, Plastilube grease pots or other high quality rilfe grease or high performance bearing grease. Should be good to go! |
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...extra clips, extra ammo, dies in 30-06, shell holder, LR primers, IMR-4895 powder, 168 gr Sierra MK bullets, a Turner sling, Don't forget a cartridge belt, helmet and liner, GI uniform, OD fatigues, combat boots, bayonet and scabard, cleaning kit that fits the butt stock, ... ... did I mention more ammo, paper targets, a stapler, ... ...spotting scope and stand, shooting glove, shooting mat, shooting kit to hold it all, .. ...a LARGE gun safe (you WILL be buying more M1's, trust me on that), ... |
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Word You also might want to tell him about 147 gr. FMJBT blasting ammo. It is alot cheaper than those match kings. |
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SPC-Ops; Yes! the ammo that the CMP sells IS reloadable, most is L.C. 69, We shot some at my club's semi annual Garand match, and it shoots very well. I collected as many empty's as I could, and have since loaded them up you will need a tool of some kind to remove the primer pocket crimp (I use a Dillon swaging tool made just for this) if you are going to use alot of military brass you may consider buying one, they are a little pricy ($70.00) but I have a couple thousand empty L.C. cases in reserve that will need the crimp removed so it's worth it to me. Anyway, buy as much ammo from the CMP as you can, The CMP has something like 12 million or so rounds of M2 ball for sale, there is no more in U.S. military storage the CMP has what's left, when it's gone you'll be reloading or rebarreling to .308..... |
Everyone's given good advice, but I would add the following: Scott Duff's M1 Garand Owner's Guide. A MUST for new Garand owners. Obtain a complete USGI buttstock cleaning kit, learn how it functions (the M-10 handle is also a dandy bolt tool as well as other uses), stow it in the buttstock for emergencies, and forget about it. You will need the Dewey "Service Rifle" coated rod, as it is just the right length and not too long that it will trip the bolt closed when cleaning. The best chamber brush for the M1 is the USGI ratcheting chamber brush which works with the abovementioned cleaning kit. Make sure to get a muzzle guide, as mentioned by Valkyrie. Sling would be a good idea. All this stuff can be had at www.fulton-armory.com. Shopping around might save a bit. |
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picked out my garand yesterday at the CMP north store. I could have spent sooo much money at that store :) Its an HRA post war rifle, HRA barrel TE = 3 ME = 2, SA bolt, HRA Op-rod, SA trigger group, and the stock has the double P cartouche. Not bad at all for a Greek Rack grade. One question I have, what does the double P cartouche mean? I am trying to figure out what kind of wood this gun has. It was filthy nasty when I got it, but I've cleaned it up and its turned out pretty nice. Thanks |
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spec-ops, I bought a 1955 HRA M1 there a few weeks ago, it is a Greek Rack Grade as well. I have since torn it down and looked it over and now it is with a good Armorer for some TLC. My barrel was copper fouled pretty good. I used Butch's Bore shine (barrel cleaner) a bunch of times and it cleaned up pretty good. Chamber erosion is about 3 which is okay, but muzzle erosion is pretty bad. 'Smith says he will cut back the barrel about 1/4" and recrown it and see if it will make a decent shooter, otherwise I will be looking for another barrel. Personally I just shoot and clean my M1 and M1A's. They are very reliable unless you have a problem and I leave repairs to a qualified Armorer/gunsmith. |
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