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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Surefire suppressor issues? (pics) (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 7/10/2006 4:48:57 PM EDT
I just picked up my surefire suppressor today and had it at the range. After a couple of magazines, I noticed my suppressor was smoking. I put two or three more mags through it, and called it quits for the day. I let it cool down before putting it back in the case with the bushmaster, and noticed that the finish was flaked and bubbled about half way down on the suppressor. The AAC I have for my HK USP tactical has done no such thing. Is this normal for a 5.56 suppressor? BTW, this thing is a freaking BLAST!  
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SUPPRESSED in FA!!!!!
Nice rifle, but I think I'll do it myself... |
I thought that Surefire used KG Gunkote on their supressors. Every pic that I have seen of a used Surefire looks exactly like the one above. You would think that they would use an oxide finish like Gemtech. I do a fair amount of refinish work with Norrell's and I'm not sure how it would do on a hot can. |
Right. I heard Norrell did not want that and asked for a special blend with Acetone. But whoever told me that was either incorrect, or Norrell changed it back to MEK. |
The oxide finishes don't look as good initially but that are more durable over the life of the suppressor. Didn't someone just tell me KG and Norells don't burn?  |
I used Norrel's SOCOM Flat Black on my M4-96D...It gets pretty hot each time I shoot. No ill effects yet, after a good 6 months of hard use. |
Oh good! I'd hate to think that the nasty email you sent to me for inquiring about the surefire can on this site still applied.
Let me guess their LE/Gov sales weren't so hot. So NOW they want to sell their can to individuals? |
Not under normal use. I can make it burn off on the hottest part of the can if I try. I am not sure how many rounds it takes -- maybe 150 rounds full auto. My personal cans do not have the finish burned off, and I do mag dumps on my 10.5 inch LMT all of the time. In that sense it is a good warning sign to stop shooting because you are melting your rifling and your gas tube is about to blow. We tried some of the ceramic coatings, and they are rated for higher temp, but they are softer and get scuffed up too easily. All things considered for durability, I like the Norrell better for cans than the ceramic coatings (which means I also like it better for pistols and rifles). If you look at photos of people's KAC and AAC cans, it is rare to see one with the finish burned off, but it can happen. When it happens, the exposed stainless is no longer shiney but a dark earth color -- so it still looks ok. In fact it looks much like the military's 'dark earth' color. I am not sure if the dark color of the stainless is the result of pigmentation left over from the coating, or if it is is the metal itself which has darkened from the heat. As far as black-oxide -- AAC does not want to dip complete welded cans in the solution for fear the cans will fill up with the gunk and it won't come out. With Moly, the inside stays clean. It is also not clear that the welded spots will oxide in a uniform way. |
No, CA did not let them sell cans to citizens. They wrote CA a letter saying that they had no right to regulate their sales, and that they were going to sell them to citizens. In the end, they were allowed to. Surefire deserves support for making suppressors, and paying for ad-space which makes LE and the public get used to suppressors as being a valid gun accessory. |
Oh! Ok! COOL! I take it back then. I thought is was one of those PC notions on their part. w00t! |
When I talked to them at SHOT a couple of years ago they were adamant and arrogant about being in the LEO/GOV market only, regardless of CA law. I guess they found out there is more to selling silencers than flashlights, and to keep the silencer division afloat, they needed to expand their markets. |
Well spin my spurs! Maybe I was right after all! |
Well, he is right in that the oxide does not look as good when placed next to a brand new XYZ can with KG/Norells, especially in a retail environment. However, after using KG and Norells I am hesitant to apply it to any more firearms, or firearm accessories, that I intend to use hard. Obviously suppressors get hot enough to BURN off painted on coatings which is why I think you made the right decision to use the oxide. ETA: It is also worth noting that paint is an insulator that will trap heat. |
It works pretty good. I really like the locking ring. It started off on my SBR, but ended up on my 16" bushmaster while I accessorize the 7.5". I really hate threads, and my class 3 dealer said you're suppose to locktite the suppressor to the barrel when using the threads. I also like the ease of moving it to other ARs. The only things I don't like is the flash hider gets cooked while the suppressor is attached, so it's now a dark color instead of the nice grey it started as. It also takes a little time aligning the suppressor with the flash hider slot. |
Yes and no. It really depends on the thickness of the coating, the material of the coating, and the material that the coating is covering. For example, the coating on your normal house wire, and esp. wires in aircraft are designed to help cool the wires. It all depends on the thermal coefficient of the material, thickness of the coating material, and diameter of the coated material. I'll dig out my Thermodynamics and Heat Transfer books if you would like more of an explanation. |
Ok, in this case we are talking about a stainless steel alloy structure covered in KG/Norells. The coating in question IS an insulator. It does not transfer heat as quickly as stainless steel alloy so it is an insulator. |
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Originally by ecestu It cooks the flashider. Thats why I would like too see a suppressor mfg make a fast attchment can that has no flashider but with a Noveske KX3 that uses the same fast attachment. For example: I use a KX3 on my 10.5 LMT upper. I want to put a suppressor on it, but I dont like having to uninstall the KX3 just to run the can. I think a lot of folks would rather run a KX3, than the standard fast attach FH that come with a suppressor. Especially on SBR's. It is just a thought. |
There is something very close to what you describe, that is also a flash hider. Hopefully I'll be allowed to post pics soon!!! |
And this thread is proof, that your new "Form 4" market cares about looks  I like the how your cans look, but my potential customers have different opinions.  brand new finish |
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I wouldn't buy a Surefire suppressor, they bring nothing to the market that you can't get elsewhere. They are way overpriced. If I were to ever buy another 223 can (I seriously can't imagine why I would do this) it would probably be YHM. I contacted the people at Surefire and they were not nice to say the least. I wouldn't reward that company for keeping its doors open in that gun UNFRIENDLY state. We ought to treat them like Ronnie Barrett does. I think Moly Resin burns off at 1000 degrees F. One 30 round clip will put a 223 suppressor over 750 degrees. The next 30 round magazine right behind it probably runs the risk of jacket seperation and potential baffle strikes. In the civilian world, there is no good reason to dump mag after mag with the suppressor attached unless you want to show off. |
 bigbore, can you atleast give me a hint? 
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I used Jet-Hot 2000 on my 06' Yamaha FZ1 headers: Jet-Hot Ceramic Finishes They said at 2400 degrees, my headers would melt before the ceramic coating would burn off.  May work on suppressors as well
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Lauer has on the durakote FAQ: "DuraCoat can withstand temperatures as high has 500-600 degrees F. With "normal" shooting, your barrel will never get close to being that hot. If you are fortunate enough to own a transferable machine gun, or if you like to "blaze" with your semi-auto, do not put DuraCoat on your barrel, as your barrel temperature will rise to over 1,000 degrees F. In those cases, use DuraHeat. Our DuraHeat coating can handle temperatures up to 1,800 degrees F." Do folks use the DuraHeat stuff, or? |
[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Surefire suppressor issues? (pics) (Page 1 of 2)
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