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Quoted:
Just had this made to accommodate my Lee Turret Press. Simply sits on top of the RCBS nipple. So much better than reaming pockets. https://s28.postimg.org/9oes2rndp/IMG_1446.jpg Looks good, but it might gain more interest in the Reloading section, which is located under the topic heading of Armory. |
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I spent the money for the Dillon swager. I quickly realized that I much prefer using the reamer chucked in a cordless drill. I tried that with only fair results so I bought the RCBS swag die and had the tool made to work with my Lee press. Primers feed in super smooth... |
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Nice. I had an old CH "C" press laying around so I bought the swage die, primer pocket punch and shell holder for a little less than half of what the Dillon swager sells for. It's worked fine so far. So you prefer swaging too.. I don't like reaming at all after swaging. No comparison imo. |
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Is that adjustable, OP? Â
The Dillon has mixed results with mixed brass manufactures because of variations in the case bases. Â I have had good luck with mine, swaging thousands of .223 mixed brass. Â I would say it is 99% over three brands that I have seen. Â I set up my Dillon to spring-eject into a box, so that makes it much faster than a reamer. Â This can be seen on Youtube. Â There is a rubber band version, but if you are a fabricator, you can do it with a permanent extension spring. Â I do such low volume .308 at this point, that I just ream. Â Reaming in that manner is hard on the fingers. Â For some, this is a huge deal. Â With 9mm crimps, I cull them as I inspect for berdan primers, Â before putting them in the case feeder. Â After I have a stack of culls, I use a reamer. Â Lots of feds leave their brass at the ranges I frequent, thus I get a good amount of 9mm with crimps. Â I will also add that I have never over reamed a case. Â I have set the plunger a touch too deep and ruined a few cases with swaging. Â The primers would fall right in and out.Â
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Quoted:
Just had this made to accommodate my Lee Turret Press. Simply sits on top of the RCBS nipple. So much better than reaming pockets. https://s28.postimg.org/9oes2rndp/IMG_1446.jpg Looks great! Any interest in making and selling a few? I use the same LEE press and RCBS swager and that would make it run a little better. I also agree with dryflash, I think the biggest issue with the swager is having to take the time to make sure it's adjusted correctly. For 7.62 mixed brass it would be a real headache, but I tend to swage large runs of same headstamp so I don't have to readjust much. Remember, no buying or selling in threads. Has to be in the EE. dryflash3 |
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Folks think of reaming and the butcher job done with the incorrect tools such as drill bits and countersinks can come to mind. But there are proper tools to use. Properly reamed cases with the correct tool like the Hornady reamer with a built in stop, you get great results. Not much difference between swaged and reamed if proper tools are used. The advantage to reaming to me is you never have to adjust a reamer for different web thicknesses. If not adjusted correctly a swager can under or over swage. Nothing to adjust with a reamer, the stop is built in and primer pockets are a standard size. My Dillon swager sits under the bench unused. So how many can you do before that thing wears out ? |
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Looks great! Any interest in making and selling a few? I use the same LEE press and RCBS swager and that would make it run a little better. I also agree with dryflash, I think the biggest issue with the swager is having to take the time to make sure it's adjusted correctly. For 7.62 mixed brass it would be a real headache, but I tend to swage large runs of same headstamp so I don't have to readjust much. Remember, no buying or selling in threads. Has to be in the EE. dryflash3 With the new design you shouldn't have to adjust anything if you're using a Lee Turret press. I spray some lube and start swaging. Slides in and out like a hot knife thru butter and primers slide in easily. |
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So how many can you do before that thing wears out ? Quoted:
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Folks think of reaming and the butcher job done with the incorrect tools such as drill bits and countersinks can come to mind. But there are proper tools to use. Properly reamed cases with the correct tool like the Hornady reamer with a built in stop, you get great results. Not much difference between swaged and reamed if proper tools are used. The advantage to reaming to me is you never have to adjust a reamer for different web thicknesses. If not adjusted correctly a swager can under or over swage. Nothing to adjust with a reamer, the stop is built in and primer pockets are a standard size. My Dillon swager sits under the bench unused. So how many can you do before that thing wears out ? Been using mine since about 1999. Guess, between 10-15K so far. Brass doesn't wear out tool steel very fast. |
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I have used the RCBS swaging die set for 25+ yrs. It has worked so well for me that I have never seen the need to change. Only need to do it once when new batches of mil brass are added to the rotation. Yes I do volume loading. It just works for me. Also, I still have the original non-hardened rods in mine. Never bent one. I just pay attention to what I'm doing I guess. |
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I wish I had your luck. The rcbs swagger die works great when I do 556. I haven't figured out how to get to work with 6.8 or 308.
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I have used the RCBS swaging die set for 25+ yrs. It has worked so well for me that I have never seen the need to change. Only need to do it once when new batches of mil brass are added to the rotation. Yes I do volume loading. It just works for me. Also, I still have the original non-hardened rods in mine. Never bent one. I just pay attention to what I'm doing I guess. |
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I have reamed thousands with no ill effects. Can't even tell they were crimped most of the time. Never understood the fear of reaming removing metal. It's literally milligrams of brass. Same for me, I've yet to find a reason not to use a primer crimp reaming tool. |
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yes I'm aware there are two different size rods.
When I use the larger rod for 6.8 or 308, I run out leverage for swagging. If I lower the die to far, it bottoms out and keeps my press' handle from go as far as it needs. It doesn't remove the crimp enough. I've setup using the instructions. I've tried different heights for the rod. It doesn't work. Quoted:
I have used the RCBS swaging die set for 25+ yrs. It has worked so well for me that I have never seen the need to change. Only need to do it once when new batches of mil brass are added to the rotation. Yes I do volume loading. It just works for me. Also, I still have the original non-hardened rods in mine. Never bent one. I just pay attention to what I'm doing I guess. |
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I did switch the shell holder when went from 556 to 308. I'll check again that switched to the correct one.
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yes I'm aware there are two different size rods. When I use the larger rod for 6.8 or 308, I run out leverage for swagging. If I lower the die to far, it bottoms out and keeps my press' handle from go as far as it needs. It doesn't remove the crimp enough. I've setup using the instructions. I've tried different heights for the rod. It doesn't work. |
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yes I'm aware there are two different size rods. When I use the larger rod for 6.8 or 308, I run out leverage for swagging. If I lower the die to far, it bottoms out and keeps my press' handle from go as far as it needs. It doesn't remove the crimp enough. I've setup using the instructions. I've tried different heights for the rod. It doesn't work. height about 5/16th. Will solve your problem. Should work for you. |
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I am with Dryflash. Reaming is much better.
I bought the RCBS press mounted swager. It was slow and I had to bump the the handle every time which aggravated my carpal tunnel. I then bought the Dillon swager because of all the praise. I could not get consistent primer feel. I tried sorting by headstamp etc. It just was not consistent. I then tried the Hornady reamer and found I can rip through tons of brass in a short time and the primer feel when seating is very consistent. I have done about 10,000 cases with mine so far. |
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I am with Dryflash. Reaming is much better. I bought the RCBS press mounted swager. It was slow and I had to bump the the handle every time which aggravated my carpal tunnel. I then bought the Dillon swager because of all the praise. I could not get consistent primer feel. I tried sorting by headstamp etc. It just was not consistent. I then tried the Hornady reamer and found I can rip through tons of brass in a short time and the primer feel when seating is very consistent. I have done about 10,000 cases with mine so far. If you spray the pockets with Lyman or hornady lube the swag on your Press will be easy in and out. Give it a try. |
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I am with Dryflash. Reaming is much better. I bought the RCBS press mounted swager. It was slow and I had to bump the the handle every time which aggravated my carpal tunnel. I then bought the Dillon swager because of all the praise. I could not get consistent primer feel. I tried sorting by headstamp etc. It just was not consistent. I then tried the Hornady reamer and found I can rip through tons of brass in a short time and the primer feel when seating is very consistent. I have done about 10,000 cases with mine so far. This swage gadget I designed for my press to work with the RCBS KIT solved the issue you mention. It makes swaging easy and fast. |
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Which hornady reamer do you use? You mention hornady with built in stop, is that just the plain hornady small pocket reamer?
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Folks think of reaming and the butcher job done with the incorrect tools such as drill bits and countersinks can come to mind. But there are proper tools to use. Properly reamed cases with the correct tool like the Hornady reamer with a built in stop, you get great results. Not much difference between swaged and reamed if proper tools are used. The advantage to reaming to me is you never have to adjust a reamer for different web thicknesses. If not adjusted correctly a swager can under or over swage. Nothing to adjust with a reamer, the stop is built in and primer pockets are a standard size. My Dillon swager sits under the bench unused. |
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Which hornady reamer do you use? You mention hornady with built in stop, is that just the plain hornady small pocket reamer? This one, small size Hornady reamer for 223. There a large size for 308.
Both are 8x32 thread and a 8x32 coupling nut will allow you to chuck them in your drill motor. edit for some blue. |
| dryflash, on your setup there chucked into the drill, I'm assuming it's a hand-held method with the case?...or is the case mounted/chucked into another device? I've only done the RCBS Swager Tool II method at this point. I haven't done thousands of cases with it at this point, but it seems to work well. Still, I've thought about reaming with the Hornady tool. |
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Reread the caption under the pic of my last post for the answer. A coupling nut is continually threaded with a hex exterior. So if it's threaded 8x32 it will fit case prep accessories and the hex fits in the drill chuck. 8x32 coupling nut |
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I say "built in stop" so folks won't confuse it with the countersinks/drill bits that Bubba's use to over cut the case head when removing the crimp. This one, small size Hornady reamer for 223. There a large size for 308. Both are 8x32 thread and a 8x32 coupling nut will allow you to chuck them in your drill motor. edit for some blue. For the hell of it I used my Lyman reamer on my drill to do 12 cases. I hell'ed on to them while the reamer did the cutting. Then I did 12 with my press and the swagging gadget. It was a lot quicker and did a much better job with no mess to clean up. The gadget adds a higher percentage of leverage on the base of the case and swag nipple as well as the re-loader base where it meets the bottom of the gadget. The cases slides off easily. No shoving, slamming or popping. It's quick and the pockets are perfect. A few simple changes to the design allows it to work with any single stage or turret press. |
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dryflash, I understand how the components fit the drill, but you still have to hold the case with your hand...right? I guess I'm just trying to avoid as much handling and finger manipulation when doing decent numbers of reloads. This technique doesn't suit you, keep looking. |
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dryflash, I understand how the components fit the drill, but you still have to hold the case with your hand...right? I guess I'm just trying to avoid as much handling and finger manipulation when doing decent numbers of reloads. I load .223 by the boat load. There is no good way to avoid handling cases one at a time unless you spring for a Dillon 1050. Reaming or swaging requires handling the cases one at a time. There are some progressive press solutions that are out there for Hornady but they require you to pickup the case and set it on the rod. There is also something for the Dillon 650 presses but it void the warranty. You only have to fix the pocket once. I have carpal tunnel in both hands. If I hold things for a long time they hurt bad. I usually can do 500-1000 cases in a sitting before my hands give up. I mark all my reloads so when I pick the cases back up I know they are mine. This allows me to separate out any new to me brass and only have to check those pockets for a crimp. This saves a ton of time and handling. |
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I load .223 by the boat load. There is no good way to avoid handling cases one at a time unless you spring for a Dillon 1050. Reaming or swaging requires handling the cases one at a time. There are some progressive press solutions that are out there for Hornady but they require you to pickup the case and set it on the rod. There is also something for the Dillon 650 presses but it void the warranty. You only have to fix the pocket once. I have carpal tunnel in both hands. If I hold things for a long time they hurt bad. I usually can do 500-1000 cases in a sitting before my hands give up. I mark all my reloads so when I pick the cases back up I know they are mine. This allows me to separate out any new to me brass and only have to check those pockets for a crimp. This saves a ton of time and handling. I pick up my brass after every 5-10 rounds fired. I use LC 80% and mixed for 20%. |
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