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8/15/2012 3:22:30 PM EDT
My buddies in my Unit have been hounding me to bring some knives for them so this is one of the knives I have been messing with for a while now in between other knives and its finally done. There are a lot of first on this knife.

3/16" 1095. About a 4"  blade and almost 8" overall. 2" hollow ground portion on blade, then a flat grind with some serrations, then a sharpened top side. All chisel ground. Natural canvas micarta dyed with leather dye. Satin belt finish.

First time for serrations and they turned out surprisingly well. Hollow grinding is pretty cool, I can already tell the difference in cutting with hollow vs a thick flat grind. I really like this knife, its going to be hard to let her go.

Also, if anybody here knows how to make a kydex sheath that doesn't rub and scuff the blade a little, feel free to hijack this thread and let me in on the secret. I can make a sheath that doesn't rub, but it loses some of its tightness and there is a little blade play inside the sheath. I like my knives fairly snug in the sheath but they scuff a little when snug. Its purely cosmetic. Is there a remedy or is it just a balancing act of tightness vs looseness vs scuffing?

Thanks for looking.



8/15/2012 6:36:57 PM EDT
[#1]
Very good work! Love the scales! I had to save a copy to my hard drive just for that. The shaping and color in particular is just perfect... May I ask what leather dye you used? Great pictures too.
8/15/2012 7:08:35 PM EDT
[#2]
When you mold the sheath are you taping the blade with masking tape? I use three layers on each side. Also don't forget that if the front of the blade is thicker or wider than the rear portion of the blade, you have to compensate for that because when you pull the knife out, the bigger portion of the front of the blade has to pass through the smaller portion of the rear of the blade. Make sense?

So for this knife, you would need to fill in the hollow ground section with tape or kydex scrap since the sheath is gonna mold narrower where the hollow ground section is and the wider flat ground section has to pass through the tighter hollow ground section.
8/15/2012 7:27:19 PM EDT
[#3]
Thanks fellas.

Thanks for the suggestions Timberwolf. I have done the tape thing but will try more layers and yes the size of the blade thing makes sense. I reheated the sheath and let it mold out away from the blade a little and it helped alot, still rubs a little on the top grind but not much, the guys in my unit wont care about a few rub marks anyway, they will probably have it buried in a tree in 5 minutes.

I friend of mine ordered one of your knives last year while we where deployed and it was awesome. You do great work. Very sturdy blades.
8/15/2012 7:35:35 PM EDT
[#4]
The leather dye was Feibings Dark Brown. It just takes a little. You will have a little transfer at first but let it dry then scrub with a brush and alcohol and it shouldn't transfer anymore.
8/15/2012 10:39:41 PM EDT
[#5]
Quoted:
The leather dye was Feibings Dark Brown. It just takes a little. You will have a little transfer at first but let it dry then scrub with a brush and alcohol and it shouldn't transfer anymore.

Awesome, thanks for the info!
8/16/2012 4:07:04 PM EDT
[#6]
Another good tip is to possibly put a bit of loop side velcro inside the sheath. It holds it out the sheath but also provides drag and is silent for those needing it. Then a good tight final fit will lock it in.

If they start really using their knives they will have scratches on the blade anyway.
8/16/2012 5:56:40 PM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
Another good tip is to possibly put a bit of loop side velcro inside the sheath. It holds it out the sheath but also provides drag and is silent for those needing it. Then a good tight final fit will lock it in.

If they start really using their knives they will have scratches on the blade anyway.


Thanks. That sounds interesting and effective. How would I go about attaching it to the inside of the kydex?
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