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Posted: 6/22/2009 5:08:31 PM EDT
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Well, I couldn't stand it any more. I must improve the trigger on this sucker or trash it. Since it costs too much to trash,,,,,,,,,
My STG has a trigger pull of 8 lb 6 oz. Sigh,,,,it pulls like a stock ruger 10-22, but lasts longer. Springs first. Below is a pic of the pieces I cut on my waterjet, from 6061 alumn to change my spring pressure. Clean hammer group,,no grease. The top black one....8 lb 6oz (stock) 2nd from the top......7 lb 1oz 3rd from the top.......6 lb 8.5 oz bottom one...............5 lb 10 oz finally under 6 lb. 7-23-09 update edit. Trigger pack has broken in and settled down at 5 lb 3 oz. Anything under this and I get doubles. Soooooo much better. Next I'll change the length of pull on that trigger when II get time. Anybody cut the hammer yet? http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee233/razerface/triggertest.jpg |
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Quoted:
I did a "trigger job" on my AUG A3 right after I got it. The pull is 4lb 1oz now. Total trigger travel is 1.8mm - about 1mm before it breaks, and some 0.8mm - after. -albertr That 4lb is my goal too. All I have done so far is these spring reduction thingys. Did you cut your hammer to get less travel? What else should I work on? I don't know anything about the Aug A3. Same? Any thread I can go reference? Search doesn't work for me for some reason |
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IMHO, to reduce pull weight:
1. DIY trigger tammer -like device. 2. Remove one of the two hammer springs. Reduce pre-travel: 1. There's a screw that holds disconnectors. On AUG A3 it's possible to move disconnectors without affecting manual safety, not sure about MSAR. Reduce over-travel: 1. A drop or two of epoxy in the trigger pack to limit its travel. I didn't try to play with angels of hammer engagement yet. -albertr |
| My 1st Gen. STG-556 has a trigger pull that almost pegs out my friends spring-type trigger pull scale at 9+ pounds. With a Trigger-Tamer installed, it reduced pull by little over 1 pound. It did take several hundred rounds to break in the STG before the Trigger-Tamer would allow reliable hammer re-cocking though. The STG is capable of decent accuracy despite the heavy trigger so, I can see a "Marksman" version performing well with good optics and better trigger pack. |
Things that have worked for me to help with the trigger on my AXR:
I don't think anything could make an AUG-style trigger as crisp as an AR trigger, but my AXR definitely has a better trigger than a stock AR, although it is numb/mushy feeling. |
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That's my next step. There is a ton of over-travel with my rifle, I would say about 3/16th of an inch at least. I think what I am going to do is epoxy a threaded tube to the sear (slide? I don't know what to call this stuff...) so that I can install a set screw to control the over-travel. I thought about controlling my over-travel by doing something further forward in the stock to limit rearward travel of the trigger, but I don't think it would be as precise as doing it inside the trigger pack. At least, there would be more potential for things to get out of wack and end up with a trigger that I can't pull far enough.
Has anyone else done anything like this? Also, has anyone experimented with reducing the size of the engagement surface on the hammer to make for a shorter pull? I'm really curious about how this affects reliability. So far, my mods are largely reversible. The polishing shouldn't have any ill effect on function. This would be something I'm fearful of doing, however, because NATO hammer packs are hard to come by. Anyone know what parts of the NATO hammer pack interchange with the regular AUG hammer pack? I will say that I put 100 rounds through the AXR this evening for the first time after doing the trigger mods and lube, and it was bliss compared to the rifle when I first received it. Even my shooting buddy, who is used to the match trigger in his AR, commented on how much I've done for the trigger on the AXR. |
| I finished my experminting. I ended up with 2 different alumn parts for trigger reduction. Between those 2 parts there are 4 spring positions to choose from. The stiffest one is comparable to stock, the lightest one took 3 lbs off my trigger. We are going to produce and sell them. $65 for both parts, or $45 for just 2 positions, shipped anywhere in the USA. |
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Quoted:
I think what I am going to do is epoxy a threaded tube to the sear (slide? I don't know what to call this stuff...) so that I can install a set screw to control the over-travel. I thought about controlling my over-travel by doing something further forward in the stock to limit rearward travel of the trigger, but I don't think it would be as precise as doing it inside the trigger pack. At least, there would be more potential for things to get out of wack and end up with a trigger that I can't pull far enough. Also, has anyone experimented with reducing the size of the engagement surface on the hammer to make for a shorter pull? This is my next step on MSAR as soon as I figure out what to do with the overtraval. I plan on cutting at least 1\2 the hammer engagement off. I think everything needs to be done inside the "pack" |
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Here is pic of finished product. There are 2 pieces in each set, with 4 positions for the spring. This allow's you to tune to whatever you like, or your rifle likes. The pair will sell for $65 shipped anywhere in USA. If you just want 1, it will sell for $45 shipped. 100 % guaranteed,,no matter what. Email for info
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee233/razerface/000_0009.jpg |
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Quoted:
Do we think this will work for an AUG, UK spec, if so would you consider shipping to the UK, plenty of potential if it works. Hey ZAZ,,I think there should be no problem working,,,,I don't know the laws on shipping gun parts out of the USA,,and don't think I want to find out. That is why I mention USA only. |
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Just an FYI, I sourced some spare STG-556 hammers from Dave at MSAR (just call him, he may them to you) and cut the engagement surface on one of them and put it in my Stery NATO pack. I wouldn't say I cut half of it, but I cut quite a bit, at least 1/8". I have a feeling you may have to judge this with each individual pack, as there may be differences in the parts. My Steyr NATO pack and the STG-556 pack are certainly going to be very different, as MSAR's parts are all slightly different from the Austrian's. The problem you'll run into if you cut too much is that you'll get an unwanted double-tap on reset. When you start to release the trigger, the little fingers that come up behind the main engagement surface (what are these called, anyone?) will let go of the hammer before the slide part can catch it. I have my trigger tuned now so that there is maybe 2mm of pull, and it breaks pretty cleanly. Problem is that I have even more over-travel now. I have an idea to introduce an adjustable over-travel take-up into the hammer pack, but I've first got to get the necessary parts.
I'll report back when I get that done! |
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Quoted:
Razerface: I see the physical differances, but what are the functional differences? Each spring notch,(little slot) lets the spring unwind a little more then the other one. This leaves less and less pressure on all the parts,,making trigger pull lighter and lighter. There are 2 parts included because there are 2 different positions on each retainer, making 4 total spring tension choices avail. This insures everybody finding a tension that their rifle runs good with. Some guns don't like the lightest position, and will not reset the trigger,,so if you have one of those,,you can go to the next harder position until your rifle works correctly. Then there are people who want a slightly easier trigger, but still prefer stiffness for safety,,as in harder to pull, equals no accidental pulls. Those people can use different notches, depending on what feels right to them, harder or softer. To be clear, you only gain 3 softer positions. The (lowest)hardest position is the same as your stock part. |
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Quoted:
Just an FYI, I sourced some spare STG-556 hammers from Dave at MSAR (just call him, he'll sell them to you) and cut the engagement surface on one of them and put it in my Stery NATO pack. I wouldn't say I cut half of it, but I cut quite a bit, at least 1/8". I have a feeling you may have to judge this with each individual pack, as there may be differences in the parts. My Steyr NATO pack and the STG-556 pack are certainly going to be very different, as MSAR's parts are all slightly different from the Austrian's. The problem you'll run into if you cut too much is that you'll get an unwanted double-tap on reset. When you start to release the trigger, the little fingers that come up behind the main engagement surface (what are these called, anyone?) will let go of the hammer before the slide part can catch it. I have my trigger tuned now so that there is maybe 2mm of pull, and it breaks pretty cleanly. Problem is that I have even more over-travel now. I have an idea to introduce an adjustable over-travel take-up into the hammer pack, but I've first got to get the necessary parts. I'll report back when I get that done! Did Dave quote you a price? Thanks! |
I took one of the hammer springs out with my Trigger Lite set on the 4th (lightest) notch. It took the trigger pull down to 4 lb 3 oz!! It was great for the first 4 shots After that it was hit and miss,,,sometimes it worked and mostly it doubled. I put the hammer spring back in.
As I keep shooting this rifle, it has made it down to 5 lb 3 oz with the trigger lite. That is down 7 oz from the time I installed the parts when rifle was new. It has settled there, so I guess my trigger pack is done wearing in. |
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The hammer springs will have less and less influence on your trigger pull the more you break the pack in. That being said, you can help the process along or even one-up it by polishing your engagement surfaces. Just be careful, it is plastic after all. I would suggest using very, very fine sandpaper to get rid of any mold lines or imperfections, then rubbing compound and a buffing wheel on a Dremel.
Also, PTFE or other dry lube helps. |
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Took the AXR out shooting today and had a lot of fun. My range buddy is getting more and more jealous of this gun. I shot better kneeling at 20 yards than I ever have before with it. No unwanted double-taps... no failure to reset. Just flawless.
Can't wait to report back when I finagle an over-travel adjustment into the trigger pack. 
razerface, would you consider just selling the lock with the two most relaxed positions individually? I'm considering performing my mods for a few other AXR owners and I'd like to use something like your solution rather than my current one. |
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Visited the hardware store this morning and picked up my new over-travel stop for the trigger pack. Cost me about $2. Installed in a few minutes, pretty easily.
I have possibly 1/8" of total trigger travel now. ETA: Actually measured the trigger travel today and it's approx .070 inches. Closer to 1/16" than 1/8" actually. |
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Quoted:
razerface, would you consider just selling the lock with the two most relaxed positions individually? I'm considering performing my mods for a few other AXR owners and I'd like to use something like your solution rather than my current one. It does not work like that. There is not room to put the lightest 2 positions on the same part. If I could have gotten the positions that close, I would have put all 4 positions on the same part. One piece has position 1 and 3,,the other has 2 and 4. Heavy =1 Light =4 |
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