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11/27/2015 3:50:52 PM EDT
I am looking for information on how to tune the trigger pack in my old M1A, right now it has a pretty rough pull at around 9lbs and is not smooth at all.

A little info, it was one of the older springfields that was built on leftover Vietnam production parts.

Am i better off just buying a pre tuned NM trigger pack or should i rebuild the one I have?
11/27/2015 4:15:09 PM EDT
[#1]
I'd recommend you send it to a gunsmith who knows M14s well.  If not, find an old copy of this on Amazon and go to work.

11/27/2015 4:50:51 PM EDT
[#2]
Make sure you don't have a broken trigger pin first. Broken trigger pins can cause the issue you describe.


11/27/2015 5:51:32 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote History
Quoted:
Make sure you don't have a broken trigger pin first. Broken trigger pins can cause the issue you describe.


View Quote


I will definitely check that first, thanks for the heads up
11/27/2015 5:59:46 PM EDT
[#4]
If you decide to try it yourself go slow and only smooth rough surfaces, don't remove any more metal than absolutely necessary to clean the parts up.
11/27/2015 6:20:13 PM EDT
[#5]
If you want a total upgrade, consider the full MAX-PAK upgrade service Smith Enterprise offers.
I had two FCGs fully upgraded by SEI, a GI TRW, and a Poly Tech.
Both are silky smooth... one breaking at 4.5 lb. the other's closer to 4.0 lb.

11/27/2015 9:00:58 PM EDT
[#6]
If you decide to get someone to look at it for you I highly recommend Warbird. He did a NM trigger job on my .308 Garand that is superb. He also specializes in M1A's.
11/29/2015 4:40:51 PM EDT
[#7]
http://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=37213
http://photos.imageevent.com/badgerdog/generalstorage/tempworkingdirectory/M1%20Trigger.pdf

What I did on my M1A trigger:
Tools:: a round green stone, a flat abrasive disk (cut-off wheel from a dremel tool), oil.

Take the green stone and run it up and down every non-sear edge 6 times to remove any burrs but not really take off any material. Oil the stone and edge before deburring.
Take each round pin chuck it up in a drill and use the oiled green stone to lightly polish the parkerization away.

Take the cut-off wheel in your fingers, oil it, and use it to lightly polish every flat surface that rotates.
Take the cut-off wheel in your fingers, oil it, and lightly polish the trigger group housing.
Take the cut-off wheel in your fingers, oil it, and lightly polish the the rounded edge on the trigger and disconnector getting rid of any bow caused by forging.
Take the cut-off wheel in your fingers, oil it, and lightly polish the rolled edges on the hammer so the trigger and disconnector slide out of the way easily.

Clean up the back side of the spring housing of any welding flash. I use a flat stone with oil on this.

Polish the hammer pushing end of the spring plunger with the cut-off wheel in your fingers and oil it.
Polish the inside of the hammer where the spring plunger pushes it. Here I used a small green bit in my dremel tool. THis was the only use of a motorized tool in the trigger job.

Lube the trigger group with grease.
Assemble without the spring and check for function and utter smoothness.
Check the grease marks on the sear as you release the hammer to see both sides release at the same instant.
Check the operation of the disconnector as the hammer comes back.
Reassemble with the spring.
Recheck the trigger release (but don't let the hammer fly into the back of the frame)
Recheck the disconnector catching the hammer.
Observe that the trigger has at least 0.025" of engagement when the disconnector touches the backside of the hammer.
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