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Posted: 2/12/2016 6:29:17 PM EDT
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Do I just soak my 22 rimfire can in mineral sprits ad that will clean it out? For how long should I do this?
Also this can is one that can be take apart and cleaned but the carbon had fused the damn thing together so will that break things up or do I now have a no serviceable can? |
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Quoted: Do I just soak my 22 rimfire can in mineral sprits ad that will clean it out? For how long should I do this?
Also this can is one that can be take apart and cleaned but the carbon had fused the damn thing together so will that break things up or do I now have a no serviceable can? There are some cleaners you can soak it in that will dissolve the lead. Unfortunately, the waste liquid will be hazmat, so handle it and dispose of it appropriately. Once you dissolve the lead, it will come free. Just don't shoot it so long between cleanings, next time. |
| Mineral spirits will do so little it is almost not worth using them at all. I would suggest you look into a pin tumbler and silicone treatment for the baffles once they are clean. Also google "the dip" method which is a chemical way of doing it, but as was already mentioned, this generates Lead Acetate which is toxic and should not be handled. Most say they have the ability to just take it to their local hazardous waste disposal site, but I just choose not to deal with it. The pin tumbler waste is elemental lead and carbon which are much less toxic. |
| If you go with the dip method, you can pour baking soda into the spent solution (remove the can beforehand) to convert the lead acetate -> lead sulfate (forms as a crystal precipitate. Just keep pouring in baking soda until the precipitate stops forming at the bottom of the container. It's still hazmat material, but "friendlier", both in type & form. Pour the remaining solvent into another container, leaving the precipitate lead sulfate to dry. Now its in solid, powder form & can be more safely kept in a kept in a sealed container w/o worrying about handling an aqueous lead solution. |
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Quoted:
If you go with the dip method, you can pour baking soda into the spent solution (remove the can beforehand) to convert the lead acetate -> lead sulfate (forms as a crystal precipitate. Just keep pouring in baking soda until the precipitate stops forming at the bottom of the container. It's still hazmat material, but "friendlier", both in type & form. Pour the remaining solvent into another container, leaving the precipitate lead sulfate to dry. Now its in solid, powder form & can be more safely kept in a kept in a sealed container w/o worrying about handling an aqueous lead solution. This is nice to know, but one should ALWAYS caution that Aluminum suppressor parts will be damaged or dissolved by the dip. |
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Quoted:
This is nice to know, but one should ALWAYS caution that Aluminum suppressor parts will be damaged or dissolved by the dip. Quoted:
Quoted:
If you go with the dip method, you can pour baking soda into the spent solution (remove the can beforehand) to convert the lead acetate -> lead sulfate (forms as a crystal precipitate. Just keep pouring in baking soda until the precipitate stops forming at the bottom of the container. It's still hazmat material, but "friendlier", both in type & form. Pour the remaining solvent into another container, leaving the precipitate lead sulfate to dry. Now its in solid, powder form & can be more safely kept in a kept in a sealed container w/o worrying about handling an aqueous lead solution. This is nice to know, but one should ALWAYS caution that Aluminum suppressor parts will be damaged or dissolved by the dip. I thought that was understood. But he prob did not know. The dip method works with stainless steel, Inconel, Stelilte, & titanium, but NOT aluminum. |
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Quoted: If you go with the dip method, you can pour baking soda into the spent solution (remove the can beforehand) to convert the lead acetate -> lead sulfate (forms as a crystal precipitate. Just keep pouring in baking soda until the precipitate stops forming at the bottom of the container. It's still hazmat material, but "friendlier", both in type & form. Pour the remaining solvent into another container, leaving the precipitate lead sulfate to dry. Now its in solid, powder form & can be more safely kept in a kept in a sealed container w/o worrying about handling an aqueous lead solution. |
| Manufacturer of my .22 can recommends a 24 hour soak in wd40. I bought a gallon and sealed it in a bucket. I lower the can in with a basket and let it soak. I remove it and put the lid back on the bucket until I need it again. About 4 years later, still working fine. Never had a problem with disassembly since this method. |
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