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Posted: 7/15/2015 6:28:21 PM EDT
| I'm a blade novice but own a few working knives. I have an Esee 3 and a Ka-bar 1276. Both have 1095 alloy blades. My question is what is a good sharpening tool to use? I have some kitchen type sharpeners but need something a little more rugged and field usable for these knives. These aren't high end knives so I'm not really looking for a high end sharpener, just something to keep a nice edge on them. |
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Which sharpener is right for the job is dictated by several factors... How dull do you let a knife get before deciding it is time to sharpen it? What is your skill set / level with sharpening tools? What is the length of the blade? Which blade steel? etc.
Some of my favorite simple / inexpensive sharpening tools include: 1) A Lansky 4-rod Turn Box Crock Stick Sharpener (ceramic rods in a wood box) (YouTube vid) 
2) Eze-lap model M (diamond rod with a solid brass handle) (YouTube vid) 
Both require some skill. Both work best if you don't wait until your blade is butter knife dull before you sharpen it. Both can be had at Amazon for less than $20 |
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Quoted:
Which sharpener is right for the job is dictated by several factors... How dull do you let a knife get before deciding it is time to sharpen it? What is your skill set / level with sharpening tools? What is the length of the blade? Which blade steel? etc. Some of my favorite simple / inexpensive sharpening tools include: 1) A Lansky 4-rod Turn Box Crock Stick Sharpener (ceramic rods in a wood box) (YouTube vid) http://www.ee33.co.uk/uploads/images_products_large/4559.jpg 2) Eze-lap model M (diamond rod with a solid brass handle) (YouTube vid) http://www.heinnie.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/800x800/1d1476401779610f2d92f39c5cd53019/e/z/ezlm.jpg Both require some skill. Both work best if you don't wait until your blade is butter knife dull before you sharpen it. Both can be had a Amazon for less than $20 Most of my knives range from 3-7 inches and are mostly 1095 carbon alloy. I try not to let them get too dull and would like something that is easy to use in the field. I have very limited experience. |
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Quoted:
Which sharpener is right for the job is dictated by several factors... How dull do you let a knife get before deciding it is time to sharpen it? What is your skill set / level with sharpening tools? What is the length of the blade? Which blade steel? etc. Some of my favorite simple / inexpensive sharpening tools include: 1) A Lansky 4-rod Turn Box Crock Stick Sharpener (ceramic rods in a wood box) (YouTube vid) http://www.ee33.co.uk/uploads/images_products_large/4559.jpg 2) Eze-lap model M (diamond rod with a solid brass handle) (YouTube vid) http://www.heinnie.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/800x800/1d1476401779610f2d92f39c5cd53019/e/z/ezlm.jpg Both require some skill. Both work best if you don't wait until your blade is butter knife dull before you sharpen it. Both can be had a Amazon for less than $20 Use both gets the job done along with a flat diamond 3 grades of coarseness tool I have had for 30 years |
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Quoted:I saw a sharpener in wally world, little yellow thing, just drag the blade through the V notches... One says FINE the other says COURSE.. So does COURSE mean for a serrated blade? Quoted:I saw a sharpener in wally world, little yellow thing, just drag the blade through the V notches... One says FINE the other says COURSE.. So does COURSE mean for a serrated blade? 
Quoted:
Quoted:
Which sharpener is right for the job is dictated by several factors... How dull do you let a knife get before deciding it is time to sharpen it? What is your skill set / level with sharpening tools? What is the length of the blade? Which blade steel? etc. Some of my favorite simple / inexpensive sharpening tools include: 1) A Lansky 4-rod Turn Box Crock Stick Sharpener (ceramic rods in a wood box) (YouTube vid) http://www.ee33.co.uk/uploads/images_products_large/4559.jpg 2) Eze-lap model M (diamond rod with a solid brass handle) (YouTube vid) http://www.heinnie.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/800x800/1d1476401779610f2d92f39c5cd53019/e/z/ezlm.jpg Both require some skill. Both work best if you don't wait until your blade is butter knife dull before you sharpen it. Both can be had a Amazon for less than $20 Most of my knives range from 3-7 inches and are mostly 1095 carbon alloy. I try not to let them get too dull and would like something that is easy to use in the field. I have very limited experience. "Easy to use" is a function of skill level. The only way to get skill is to practice (get experience). The first time you picked up a rifle, you probably thought 3 inch groups @ 100 yards was "pretty good" today you're probably a lot more skilled and you think 3 inch groups are seen only on a bad day (the morning after a bachelor party) with cheap crap ammo in terrible conditions... 
One more sharpener recommendation - a kitchen sharpening "steel" (steel or ceramic) - you might already have one or two... 
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Quoted: Not to hijack the thread but I saw a sharpener in wally world, little yellow thing, just drag the blade through the V notches... One says FINE the other says COURSE.. So does COURSE mean for a serrated blade? Fine Vs coarse refers to the texture or grit size like on sandpaper. Rough (for removing a lot of material) or smooth (for a little amount/touch ups) on the blade. As said, skip those. |
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Quoted:
I've been using a Lansky system on my knives for over 20 years: http://cdn.protoolreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/ptr/1276.jpg They are incredibly affordable but do have limitations depending on your blade size and shape. But mine has served me very well. I'm currently debating the Edge Pro vs the Wicked edge systems. I got one of these a few months ago. I'm still scared to try either long knives (kitchen), or my ZT 0350. Do you sharpen re-curves on yours? |
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Quoted:I got one of these a few months ago. I'm still scared to try either long knives (kitchen), or my ZT 0350. Do you sharpen re-curves on yours? I own a Lansky as well. I only use it to reprofile edges. The angle (which hole you pick) is not consistent - it depends (varies with) the width of the blade. The only blade shape that it is really good at sharpening is a blade with a width that doesn't vary much along its length - something like a nakiri (image below). 
Imagine trying to sharpen this with a Lansky > 
If you use the same hole as you move along the knife, the edge angle would be much shallower at the heel and much steeper at the tip/point... and vary continuously as you move the clamp along the blade from heel to tip. I think of my Lansky as a crude but sometimes useful sharpening tool... FWIW... |
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Quoted:
I got one of these a few months ago. I'm still scared to try either long knives (kitchen), or my ZT 0350. Do you sharpen re-curves on yours? Quoted:
Quoted:
I've been using a Lansky system on my knives for over 20 years: http://cdn.protoolreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/ptr/1276.jpg They are incredibly affordable but do have limitations depending on your blade size and shape. But mine has served me very well. I'm currently debating the Edge Pro vs the Wicked edge systems. I got one of these a few months ago. I'm still scared to try either long knives (kitchen), or my ZT 0350. Do you sharpen re-curves on yours? I have a ZT0350 as well and I don't feel comfy trying to sharpen it with the Lansky. I use an older sharpener I bought many years ago, similar to the Spyderco Sharpmaker, to sharpen blades not fit for the Lansky. |
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Quoted:
I can't use mine for shit Quoted:
Quoted:
For inexpensive sharpening systems, I'm partial to the Spyderco Sharpmaker. I can't use mine for shit Like anything, they take a bit of practice. But once you get the hang of it, they're easy to use and do a pretty darn good job for a $60 kit. Many of Spyderco's competitors use and recommend the sharpener. Chris Reeve comes to mind. If you're looking for easier sharpening, and you've got the cash, check out Edge Pro and Wicked Edge. |
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Quoted:
I own a Lansky as well. I only use it to reprofile edges. The angle (which hole you pick) is not consistent - it depends (varies with) the width of the blade. The only blade shape that it is really good at sharpening is a blade with a width that doesn't vary much along its length - something like a nakiri (image below). http://www.cutleryandmore.com/content/products/large/25172.jpg Imagine trying to sharpen this with a Lansky > http://www.cutleryandmore.com/content/products/large/29830.jpg If you use the same hole as you move along the knife, the edge angle would be much shallower at the heel and much steeper at the tip/point... and vary continuously as you move the clamp along the blade from heel to tip. I think of my Lansky as a crude but sometimes useful sharpening tool... FWIW... Quoted:
Quoted:I got one of these a few months ago. I'm still scared to try either long knives (kitchen), or my ZT 0350. Do you sharpen re-curves on yours? I own a Lansky as well. I only use it to reprofile edges. The angle (which hole you pick) is not consistent - it depends (varies with) the width of the blade. The only blade shape that it is really good at sharpening is a blade with a width that doesn't vary much along its length - something like a nakiri (image below). http://www.cutleryandmore.com/content/products/large/25172.jpg Imagine trying to sharpen this with a Lansky > http://www.cutleryandmore.com/content/products/large/29830.jpg If you use the same hole as you move along the knife, the edge angle would be much shallower at the heel and much steeper at the tip/point... and vary continuously as you move the clamp along the blade from heel to tip. I think of my Lansky as a crude but sometimes useful sharpening tool... FWIW... Your post defies the laws of geometry. The Lansky would hold the most consistent angle with a radiused blade with the center at the pivot point of the Lansky. A straight blade is a guarantee of changing edge angles as you work from mid blade to tip. |
| I have a DMT guided angle system similar to the Lansky. It took me a while to get the hang of it but I can put a damned sharp edge on with it. It can be a pain on big knives and as someone posted above the angle can vary from the tip to heel. That can be minimized with practice and varying how the blade sits in the clamp. It's portable, not expensive and it doesn't need oil because the stones are diamond. I like it. |
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Quoted: The cheap 1x30 Harbor Freight belt sander and some good fine belts from Lee Valley. Finish with leather belt, also on Lee Valley. Stupid sharp, stupid quick. I picked up everything for ~$60-$70. |
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Been using DMT sharpeners for years. I get the quickest results using their 8" DuoSharp w/base for home use and their flip handle sharpeners away from home. If you want something real compact, DMT also has a 3 pack of credit card size sharpeners you can use on the field.
I usually stick to coarse and fine grits. If I need the edge to shave hair, I just strop it for about 30 seconds. |
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Tormek or Grizzly clone. They're the only motorized sharpeners I'd recommend for normal knife enthusiasts. It grinds/sharpens wet and won't ruin the temper on the very apex of the edge.
If you were wanting to use a stone type and learn to sharpen by hand I'd say get a set of DMT diamond 8". Then some higher grit Japanese water stones. If you want to shell out a good amount and get real precise with your edge angles I'd say get the Wicked Edge system. |
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Saw this at a gun show and it sharpened my mini griptilian in a few seconds super sharp and the edge has been holding up fine.
http://www.cabelas.com/product/Hunting/Food-Processing/Knife-Sharpeners%7C/pc/104791680/c/104723280/sc/104560380/Work-Sharp-Ken-Onion-Electric-Knife-and-Tool-Sharpener/1641567.uts?destination=%2Fcatalog%2Fbrowse.cmd%3FN%3D1117852 |
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