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Posted: 8/17/2013 4:32:07 PM EDT
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Hi all. I think I've got nearly 2 dozen 80% builds that I need to have finished. Originally I was planning to send them all out, but I'd like to do them myself and have been watching and reading up as much as I can on Cerakote finishes.
My question is, what tools (sprayer vs airbrush, compressor, blaster, etc) should I look at getting? I don't want to get something and find out its not the right tool for the job. Any recommendations from personal experience? Thanks in advance. |
| As far as a paint gun look on ebay you can find a nice used sata mini jet. Then goto habor fright get a blasting cabinet clean and degrease the inside. And while you are there get a pack rubber gloves (powder free). Get some micro fiber rags although you would be better going to a paint supply shop and getting lint free paper towels or tack cloths carefully with these when new you just want to very lightly wipe the dust off. And you will need a way to bake the lowers |
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I made a thread about this a while back, not sure if it is still searchable in the refinishing forum.
My advice, the short version: find another coating, or get some professional help, even if all that means is paying somebody at the local community college auto body program to do the actual spraying. I say this, because while the *process* is EASY, doing the process *very well* is HARD. If you are a perfectionist, or want blemish-free lowers, you may wish to reconsider this as a DIY...unless you just have a knack for this sort of thing. The surface prep requires grit blasting...even if you go the Northern Tool or Harbor Freight route for basically everything, you are still looking at about $500 or more in equipment, plus probably 2 quarts of the cerakote for that many lowers ($100 per quart). Also, the grit available at either of the above stores is FAR too coarse, you will need 80-100 grit I believe to apply cerakote. Blasting, removing dust and de-greasing is a royal pain. Make one mistake while spraying, and your options are to immediately dunk it in acetone and remove the entire coating, or more likely blasting it all over again for any kind of completeness. ETA: Oh, and did I mention TIME CONSUMING? I was only working on a few guns...if you are trying to do this the cheap route (cheaper compressor and blast cabinet, etc), this will take FOREVER. Better to buy once, cry once. There are more reasons than price alone to enjoy the economies of scale offered by regular manufacturers.... |
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I'm not sure how kosher it is to post links to threads in other forums- (sniperhide in this case) but I posted (under the name msahlm) my build of a paint oven I made out of a filing cabinet and a toaster oven- (sounds a lot more redneck than it actually is- my oven is bad-ass if I don't say so myself). There are several other oven builds in the same thread, and it's a pretty worth-while thread to read if you're going to build one, so hopefully the mods aren't tore up with the link in the name of sharing knowledge.
http://forum.snipershide.com/sniper-hide-gunsmithing/47697-homemade-paint-oven-more-pics-added.html I've found a good oven, build specifically for baking gun parts is the number one most important tool to have if you're going to do cerekoting of anything bigger than a single pistols or receiver. Mine is PID controlled and I've found keeping exact (repeatable)temperatures to be important, and that the finish and even color can vary greatly dependent on temp and time. Also prebaking is important to ensure no oil remain (and seeps out of cracks and holes while you're baking), and I've found I often end up having to bake a part 3 times before I'm satisfied it's ready to spray. Also, with cerekote, I like to prebake my parts at around 100-120F prior to spraying, just warm enough that you don't get runs- this is all much easier with a true gun oven. You could get by with the wifeys food cooker, but I'd suggest getting a separate oven for cooking gun parts in than the one you feed your family from- there's some toxic Chit in the stuff. my two cents. Anyway, I'm not a pro, I'm just a shmo but that's been my experience. |
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