Armory Sponsor
Posted: 8/29/2009 5:15:14 PM EDT
|
I am considering a single stage or turrent reloader. I will start out with .45 ACP for now and move into .223 in the future.
My question concerns my bench. I have a Kobalt workbench I got from Lowes a few years ago.... It has a MDF work surface on it. I think it is about 3/4" thick. Would I need to change this out if I decided to reload? I am thinking I should bond 2 sheets of 1/2" plywood at minimum and replace it. Or could I back both sides of the press with plywood or even metal to support it? I have a table saw so it would be no problem to trim a new top to fit............... |
|
Might not help you but i saw a great bench at Sams Club here.Reallly nice with thick maple top, real sturdy and only $198.I might go get it this tomorrow.
Sams Club Bench Thick 1.75 inch solid maple top, full steel supoort under the top that legs are attached to, very sturdy.
|
|
Like mark said take as much flex out of it as you can, granted it isn't practical to use a big block of concrete or same size block of steel no flex there ever. The reason for removing the flex is because during sizing you can exert a good ammount of force to resize the brass. If there is flex then there may come a time when it will snap and break because of the flexing.
Me I am using an old computer desk atm but am currently working on building a new bench, Taking pics as I go. I will be using an old counter top that I picked up. |
|
I bought 2 x 4 basics found it on amazon on sale with free shipping. I bought this and made my own dimensions to fit my needs. I just checked amazon and the price is even less ($61.90)than what I paid and it still has free shipping!!! HERE is the linky. Good luck!
Here is a stock photo |
|
Quoted:
I am considering a single stage or turret reloader. I will start out with .45 ACP for now and move into .223 in the future. My question concerns my bench. I have a Kobalt workbench I got from Lowes a few years ago.... It has a MDF work surface on it. I think it is about 3/4" thick. Would I need to change this out if I decided to reload? I am thinking I should bond 2 sheets of 1/2" plywood at minimum and replace it. Or could I back both sides of the press with plywood or even metal to support it? I have a table saw so it would be no problem to trim a new top to fit............... All depends on the bracing of the bench top, whether the top will hold up. I'm a believer of at least 1 1/2 inch thick top for a reloading bench. My current bench (fifth one I've built), uses 2 layers of 3/4 inch Melamine glued and screwed together. Braced with 2 x 4's every 16 inches.
Melamine is a durable, smooth surface, much better than plywood IMO. That's a Rockchucker on the far right of the pic. This bench was built in early 1998, and is holding up well. Build some shelf's, you need a lot of storage. If your handy, some drawers also. One more thing, bolt / lag screw bench to the wall, so it doesn't move around during sizing.
Also check out this Official Reloading Bench Pic Thread Good luck |
|
Quoted:
I am considering a single stage or turrent reloader. I will start out with .45 ACP for now and move into .223 in the future. My question concerns my bench. I have a Kobalt workbench I got from Lowes a few years ago.... It has a MDF work surface on it. I think it is about 3/4" thick. Would I need to change this out if I decided to reload? I am thinking I should bond 2 sheets of 1/2" plywood at minimum and replace it. Or could I back both sides of the press with plywood or even metal to support it? I have a table saw so it would be no problem to trim a new top to fit............... I haven't looked at a Lowe's Kobalt bench, so I don't know what kind of support you have under it. If you can describe how its supported, please share, picture would be good, otherwise, Monday I'll check it out for you and give you some options. I'm an architectual designer/struct. engineer, building contractor by trade. A small problem to solve! Fun!
Until then some possible options: One would be to glue and screw (drywall screws from the bottom) another layer of MDF to the top, giving you an inch and a half thickness. Much sturdier. As Dryflash3 did, Melamine would give you a finshed top, but MDF is okay if you seal it. Of course you could even cover it with laminate and still add a wood face, if you want to spend the money. Another option would be to add a flat 2X10 or 2X12 to the underside of the open "knee hole" portion of the bench (or even doubled if you have leg room), flush to the front edge, (glue and screw of course) and also screwed with 2" cabinet screws into each end (3 ea. end) from the cabinets on each side of the knee hole. Or you could do both. (That's assuming of course that you have a knee hole section.) If the existing top is fastened down to the cabinets with a puny screw in each corner you're going to have to do something to hold it down better, because cranking on the press handle will eventually pull the back screws. One way, if your cabinet can be permanent to the back wall, is to screw a 3/4" wood "splash" plate to the wall that will hold the top down. Hope this helps some. |
|
heres the bench i made i used 1" sq. tubing all around and welded it up for the feet 6"x6" plates no flex no moving anywhere top is 1" mdf total cost 35.00 as you see it
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b104/lal357/DSCF0043.jpg |
Armory Sponsor



