Armory Sponsor
Posted: 12/1/2016 10:06:39 PM EDT
|
im looking for an adjustable gas block where i can flip or quickly change it down when i run a suppressor....this is my upper BCM-BFH
http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/BCM-BFH-11-5-Carbine-Upper-Receiver-Group-w-BCM-p/bcm-urg-11-bfh-kmr-a-10.htm id like to have it setup for 2 positions.....but all the ones i see have an allen screw......do these screws do major adjusting per click or minor? .....when using a suppressor would it just be 3 or 4 clicks to come to proper rpm? or is it 10+ turns? it would be great if they made one with a switch...flip one way for no suppressor, flip the other way for suppressor what is the recommended gas block for a m16 w/ a 11.5 barrel Noveske switchblock ---just found this...this is probably what i saw once that got me thinking about a ON/OFF for suppressor....id need to cut out my hand guard a bit...but the reviews sound like they get stuck from carbon build up...so maybe not a good idea contacted BCM to see what they recommend...they sell one on their website, but out of stock i will have to look at my hand guard to make sure a hole would like up with the allen screw if i went with that setup do it yourself job on my bcm bfh? |
|
If your rail is 7" you can use a Noveske Switchblock calibrated for 11.5" Carbine gas. Some people like the Micro MOA Govnah, which has a sliding plate with 3 customizable contrictions drilled in it, which I believe will fit under some rails.
I've used neither, but I have a 10.5" Noveske barrel with an SLR gas block, which has about 11 settings, which some consider on the coarse side, and it allowed me to find a position which runs smoothly and locks back with and without a SOCOM RC-2 attached and no significant gas in the face. The ejection pattern varies from about 2:30 to 4:00 depending on configuration, but I prefer it tuned a little hot for dirty and unshouldered reliability. I do have a standard weight A5H buffer installed which may help widen the functional envelope. That said, especially with the greater available dwell of an 11.5, I'd bet even with a carbine buffer system you'd have no problem finding a functional do-all setting with some buffer experimentation, and certainly should be within a click or two to have it purring with perfect ejection in either configuration. Plus you can adjust for various ammo pressures. The only downside is needing a tool if you do prefer to make adjustments regularly. I'll never build another AR without an SLR as they have a great reliability record. |
|
I just stuck a Gemtech switchable bolt carrier in my 11.5 BCM upper. Runs great.
I have a 10.5 Noveske switchblock upper that I built from components, but it's a stainless barrel, so I don't want to run it on my M16. It's the sweetest shooting semi I have though, both suppressed and unsuppressed. So, I got another 10.5 switchblock barrel assembly, this one the CHF chrome lined one, and my next project is to build a clone of my stainless upper for my MG. After that, I'm planning on building an upper with one of the Govnah blocks, because it will fit under a rail. Maybe a 12.5 middy, just because I can, and because I want to see how a 12.5 middy shoots. I like the suppressed/unsuppressed switchable systems, because then the rifle is always correctly gassed, instead of having to find a "compromise" setting that will run with both. DIY FTW! |
|
im going to buy a screwdriver tool to adjust it easier....and suppressed and nonsuppressed will most likely be 1 or 2 clicks away from each other anyways...so switching it shouldnt be a big deal...i just liked the positive clicks and how i dont have to mess with adjusting it through the side of the handguard....
fun doing easy gunsmith jobs....learning more how easy the AR platform is....nice that everything how milspec makes every part work on any other ar is my old BCM block have any value? i dont see a purpose to keep it |
| Just keep in mind, carbon does foul the screws a bit on these adjustables, so if you're not switching back and forth every outing, it's good to drop some Slip EWL or something into cracks around the detent spring and work the screw a bit every few hundred rounds. I hardly ever mess with mine, but when I tried it took a bit of turning back and forth and lubing to get it freed back up. Also, I'm not 100% on this, but I assume the tip of the screw will erode over a few thousand rounds and benefit from being turned in a click from the previous sweet spots. Maybe others can speak to this. |
Armory Sponsor