Armory Sponsor
Posted: 7/3/2006 11:32:20 AM EDT
|
I have noticed that WD40 and CLP work great, but they run out and are messy. Wire pulling gel doesn't work quite as well as the can coated with CLP, but it lasts and stays put, however I think wire pulling gel that is water based is corrosive, at least mildly. I'm trying to figure out what coolannt medium would coat the inner surfaces like CLP or work as well as wire pulling gel, yet act either as a neutral agent or a protectant. Anyone know of anything like that? I have tried bearing grease, and that was hard to pack [stringy], stayed put, but didn't suppress very well [ loud hollow sound]. I bought white lithium grease but it was thick enough that my experience with bearig grease suggested that it should't work any better. I thought about shaving cream but it seemed to be a corrosive. A foaming oil would be perfect, but I don't think that exists. Anyone have a really hot settup for a good suppressor packing that will last for a while (aKA not evaporate inside a couple weeks), not run out, and not corrode aluminum? |
|
"Has anyone tried 3M spray mount glue?" http://www.greenlightoffice.com/product/displayblock.aspx?block=2014492&source=ssp just looked that up ^^^^^ and it says "becomes permanent when dry." Sounds like a no go. With all the products on the market in olis/lubricants etc, it would seem that something more suited to the purpose should exist. Wire gel is great but the water based part sounds like a bad long-term solution. |
|
"Thickeners hold base oil like a sponge holds water. Lithium, calcium, bentone, and polyurea are conventional thickeners. Advanced thickeners, called complexes (e.g. lithium complex, aluminum complex), handle higher temperatures. Petroleum- based grease is named for its thickener (e.g. lithium grease, polyurea grease)." If that's true, maybe I coud take a white lithium grease and mix more oil into it, to get a better consistency (more liquid) that still won't run out of a can? I think ideal would be a coating of oil that stayed put. Grease seems to be on the extreme (more of a inject and it just sits there), maybe a happy medium is possible. |
|
The wet 9mm can I had was designed for grease light oils did nothing, so I think it depends upon the design of the can. For my gun some high temp red grease worked best, the white lithium second, and the cheap black grease that came in the tiny tubes at Menards the worst. I never left it loaded up and ready for 2 wks though so can not comment on that. What would Pam anti cook sticking spray do. |
| I have a 22 can (made by a small regional CII) that disassembles for cleaning. I took it apart and coated each baffle and the inner surface of the spacers with white lithium grease. It was very effective -- moreso than pouring other liquids down the pipe or squirting it with CLP, etc. I'm probably due to take it apart for another clean/relube after a thousand rounds or so. |
|
That's kind of surprising that grease worked better than CLP. I used grease in my .22lr can and it sounded loud and hollow (wierd sound) but not quiet. Quiet was the CLP relm. Maybe the pistol produces hotter gas and that is enough to liquify the grease? or was that a wipe can? The shave gel sounds kind of interesting. Wouldn't that mean that you woulc fire and it would actually add volume to the gel? That PAM idea is actually pretty good, maybe it wouldn't drip or run out of the can? |
My experiments were by no means scientific.  Did you just pack/squirt grease down in it, or disassemble and coat all the internal surfaces like I did? CLP is definitely easier without disassembling, but only last a few mags before it burns off and/or blows out. I'll be interested to see how much of my greasy packing is left when I disassemble the thing again. |
Wouldn't that just run through like oil and defeat the purpose of a coolant that should stay put? Or I guess maybe you are just talking about coolants in general now. Maybe it would be effective for that. |
Yeah just talking about stuff in general. Supposedly water is the quietest medium but it is corrosive with the aluminum so how bout anti-freeze. |
That might explain your poor results. I disassembled my can last weekend for a cursory cleaning and repacking. Even with over 1000 rounds through the can (many on full auto), it came apart fairly easily and the fouling cleaned off the baffles and spacers with just CLP and a rag. A lot of the grease was still there, and had just form a gummy residue with the lead/powder fouling. I recoated everything as before -- a thin film of moly grease between the can and the spacers to prevent siezing (I forgot to mention that before, but it doesn't come into play in the actual supression chambers), and a healthy swabbing of white lithium inside each spacer and on both sides of each baffle. I gave it a quick blast of compressed air before firing any rounds through it. Sounds great now, and it doesn't smoke like CLP or other lighter oils do. For cans that can disassemble, I highly recommend this method. I'll stay tuned for recommendations for those that can't since I'm sure I'll have one eventually. |
Armory Sponsor