Armory Sponsor
Posted: 2/12/2008 7:29:58 PM EDT
|
So I'm kind of a suppressor noob, but I've been trying to read up on the ins and outs of it. However, the more I learn the more questions I begin to have. I am planning on making a suppressor purchase in the near future for my Marvel .22 conversion but would also like to run the same suppressor on my .22 conversion for my AR. Would it be a bad idea to run the same suppressor on both? My AR has a 16" barrel with a 1:9 twist. I've been looking at the Gemtech Outback II. Would this unit suffice for both? What would you recommend for this type of application? And would I need two stamps if I used one suppressor on two guns or does the stamp follow the serial number on the suppressor only? |
|
Your silencer can move from gun to gun, check your AR first and make sure it will cycle some brand of subsonic ammunition, it won't be too quiet if you shoot supersonic. For the Marvel kit your barrel is also long enough to send some ammo supersonic, Winchester Dynapoint might be your all around answer. |
Stop blindly promoting your site. Answer his question ... then maybe do a "for more info see ..." |
|
I just go into this stuff about a year ago too, so consider that in the following: You should be able to use the same suppressor on both 22's. They'd both need to have 1/2x28 barrel threads, though. You may want to try your AR 22 conversion & make sure the bullets stabilize before you use the suppressor on it. Reg 22lr twist is 1:16, the 1:9 spins it much quicker than ideal. QD vs Threads A quick detach can would make this easier, but isn't necessary. You end up having a funky looking flash hider on your gun all the time, w/ the QD. I just have one 22 can, an AAC Aviator, & use it on a couple of different rifles, and am happy with just having a thread mont, and it's a little cheaper. STAMPS: The NFA paperwork is just for the suppressor's serial #, so you do the papers on that, and use it on any gun you want to. http://www.silencerresearch.com/ 1928A1 provided you a link to his free website where he provides Decibel readings for tons of different silencers. In this regard, you are in luck, as he just completed a comparison of most available 22 cans on the market. AL vs SS You also will ave to choose between Aluminum and Stainless. Of course, SS will probably weigh more, but it is also resistant to cleaning materials. As I read here & there, it has become popular to clean 22 cans with a hydrogen peroxide based solution that will sissolve the lead buildup in the can. Apparently this results in a toxic solution of lead oxide that is very hazzerdous. MAINTENANCE: Take-Apart Cans - Some cans are sealed & have to be cleaned w/ the toxic hazzards, or shipped back to the factory. Some cans you can take apart yourself, but have to be maintained regularly to keep them from siezing up. |
| +1 on the spacer. I would say you'll probably want a Stainless can you can take apart to clean. If you shoot a lot with the Ceiner and Suppressor, it won't take long to fill the can up with crud. It's easy to go thru 550 rnds or more in a setting thru a Ceiner kit. I swap my cans between pistols and rifles, not a problem. |
Armory Sponsor