Armory Sponsor
Posted: 5/10/2017 8:47:47 AM EDT
|
So has anyone sprayed Creakote with preval spray units?
Also if I do not have a sandblaster, how can I clean the parts so that the cerakote sticks properly? |
|
I have not used that unit, but I'm going to go out on a limb and say it does not offer the level of control required. Cerakote really needs the right equipment, you can't take short cuts with it. If you are doing less than 5 or so guns it would be more cost effective to have it professionally done. Not to say it can't be done or that you shouldn't do it your self, just something to consider. Don't under estimate the results that can be had with rattle cans either. Some very acceptable results can be had.
If you can't come up with a blast cabinet, and proper spray gun, I'd skip the diy route. Just my opinion and there are many different ones out there that you will see in the following posts..... |
|
So sounds like Cerakote is a much harder thing to use than other things like Duracote? Preval is a spray unit that comes with a bottle and produces a finish similar to a spray can.
My issue with sending stuff out is if it's a receiver how do I get it back? Do I need to send it back to a FFL? What if it's a 80% receiver? The part(s) in question is actually a Remington 700 receiver I made myself that I was hoping to cerakote or maybe have someone nitride it... |
|
I've done the Durabake from a can and the results are good. Having a clean dust free area and good prep is important.
Most shops have a blast cabinet stop in and ask what they would charge to do it ? I done it without just sanding and it really doesn't wear well with out blasting. |
| I had zero luck trying to use the preval spray system. I ended up with a huge mess. I then picked up an inexpensive HVLP trim gun (similar to this) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BEH3JF0?tag=vglnk-c102-20 And it works perfectly for this application. You will obviously need access to a compressor though. |
|
I have access to a blast cabinet at my university. I however don't want to know what happens if I get caught blasting firearms receiver in one of those thing.
I also have a spray gun but no access to a compressor which is why I asked about preval units. Anyone know what the rules are on sending stuff to someone with a FFL to do the coating? |
|
I have. It's fine for a quick spray of a barrel, but nothing else. I did two ak's that way and it came out less than ideal. First (and main) problem is the nozzles spray too heavy and they are not common nozzle types (I tried 3 different types, none fit). Second is waste (because the tube doesn't come close to the bottom of the jar, you'll fill it up way more than needed).
Just get a cheap Badger airbrush and canned air. FAR better results. |
|
Harbor Freight sells cheap gravity feed paint guns for about $15.00. I use one for Duracoat. You don't need a sand blaster to prep surfaces for CeraKote either, the blasters "erase" the old finish, and leaves you with a consistent metal finish. Read Cerakotes instructions, especially the ones that specifically address the metal surface. They really don't want you to leave a rough surface. I usually bead blast the metal, then scrub the hell out of the surfaces to be coated with a red Scotchbrite to rough up the metals finish so coatings can stick. Otherwise, bead blasting leaves the metal with a smooth "peened" type finish that most coatings don't like.
I did one gun with a Preval. Never again, it's really difficult to get a smooth finish with its round spray pattern. |
|
Quoted:
Anyone know what the rules are on sending stuff to someone with a FFL to do the coating? |
|
Quoted:
Harbor Freight sells cheap gravity feed paint guns for about $15.00. I use one for Duracoat. You don't need a sand blaster to prep surfaces for CeraKote either, the blasters "erase" the old finish, and leaves you with a consistent metal finish. Read Cerakotes instructions, especially the ones that specifically address the metal surface. They really don't want you to leave a rough surface. I usually bead blast the metal, then scrub the hell out of the surfaces to be coated with a red Scotchbrite to rough up the metals finish so coatings can stick. Otherwise, bead blasting leaves the metal with a smooth "peened" type finish that most coatings don't like. I did one gun with a Preval. Never again, it's really difficult to get a smooth finish with its round spray pattern. |
|
Quoted:
You are allowed to send and receive your firearm without it going to a FFL if you are sending the firearm in for repair/modification. Olympic Cerakote would likely be of assistance to you, although I don't know what his turn around time maybe.  thanks for the mention!
Our turn times are coming back down to normal here. We've cleared out most of our backlog from our sales. |
|
Quoted:
You win. I swear the last Cerakote instructions I had said that blasting wasn't necessary, and that you could use medium Scotchbrite, but I don't see that on the online instructions now. The latest instructions (dated 01/01/2017) do now specify blasting. |
|
Quoted:
I believe you are thinking of DuraCoat. From what I understand (have not done it myself yet) DuraCoat recommends blasting, but says it is not required. You can Scotchbrite or sandpaper for prep before spraying. We just scotch brited the whole gun and it doesn't wear very well. For a range gun it might be ok but for a match gun it scratches easily. |
|
It doesn't matter what you're spraying, Duracoat, KG Gunkote, or Cerakote; it's always best to sand blast the parts to give you fresh, clean metal to coat. Even anodized parts can be lightly blasted just to give you a clean surface. If you don't have a blast cab, then take it to a good machine or weld shop. For small or touch up jobs, you can get away with an airbrush and small hobby compressor. You don't even need 20 psi for most jobs, so a big rig is not required.
A small air compressor, like you might find on a job site to operate air tools will do nicely and not break the bank. I use a Devilbliss Touch-Up spray gun, which I have found over the years to work the best with firearms. You can get away with a cheap, gravity feed gun from Lowes or Home Depot. Duracoat is easy to learn and use. KG Gunkote takes a little bit more experience. And Cerakote is professional grade, which takes decent equipment and good technique. If you don't want to make the investment, stick with spray cans, which can do a really good job with a little practice. If you really want to do Cerakote right, then you need a compressor and a decent spray gun. And again, always blast the parts for best results. |
Armory Sponsor