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Posted: 3/12/2009 10:13:45 AM EDT
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when you install an FAL barrel do they ever mate up so that they are past top dead center? in that I mean that if you tightened the barrel down it would be a few degrees past where it should be to get the proper torque spec? if so how do you correct that?
Also can you place the gas block potrion of the barrel in a vise and use a receiver wrench to torque it down like you might an ar15? or would the 80-100ft/lbs of tourque possibly snap the gas block pins or distort the gas block? on ar's I always clamp the front sight base and torque the barrel that way. I use leather, cloth or wood to protect the metal and it comes out undamaged but the tourq there is much less. let me know |
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Comparing an AR barrel installation to a FAL barrel installation makes no sense as they are very different processes. I would not clamp the FAL gas block to use it to torque the barrel. Clamping the AR gas block for barrel installation is bad for completely different reasons.
The solution to a barrel that rotates too far is to use a breeching washer which are used in the inch pattern guns. The inch pattern guns use washers of different thicknesses to adjust the barrel to receiver interface, so you could take a little off the face of the barrel and then use the washers as if it was an inch barrel. |
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Quoted:
when you install an FAL barrel do they ever mate up so that they are past top dead center? in that I mean that if you tightened the barrel down it would be a few degrees past where it should be to get the proper torque spec? if so how do you correct that? Also can you place the gas block potrion of the barrel in a vise and use a receiver wrench to torque it down like you might an ar15? or would the 80-100ft/lbs of tourque possibly snap the gas block pins or distort the gas block? on ar's I always clamp the front sight base and torque the barrel that way. I use leather, cloth or wood to protect the metal and it comes out undamaged but the tourq there is much less. let me know Barreling a AR and Barreling a FAL is like comparing apples and Orangels. I have done both and a FAL is a little more harder. In order to do it right, you need to get the proper tools, which includes a FAL Barrel wrench and FAL Barrel Vise. Once you get the proper tools, you need to hand tighten the barrel to the receiver to about 11 o'clock. If it doesn't hand tighten to 11 o'clock, the barrewl won't index with the gas tube, which is bad. Building a FAL isn't too hard with the basic tools and knowledge. I don't believe it is much harder than an AR, but if you don't do it right, it could hurt you when you fire it. For more info, check out www.falfiles.com under the gunsmithing section, and for the proper tools, buiy from Ratas Caliente in the Marketplace section. His tools are awesome and worth the cash. It made my build a hell of a lot easier, and not looking to build another FAL. |
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The others are right in that you can't compare the FAL to the AR for barrel installations. Basically there are two methods used to install barrels on the FAL. Both require a receiver wrench. One method is to clamp the receiver in a vice and use a modified open end wrench on the barrel flats. I've never done that because it just seemed too likely that the wrench could slip off the flats or damage the flats. I use the second method of clamping the barrel in a barrel vice and use the receiver wrench to torque on the receiver. You may have to use some rosin in the barrel vise to keep the barrel from turning but this has worked well for me with the two builds I did. Just hand tighten the barrel (by the way, don't forget to get your handguard ring on there first) to about 10:30 then torque away. If it tightens up past 12:00, you may have to use the washers and be prepared to do some shaving off the barrel shoulder.
I do hope you realize that unlike the AR, you have to headspace the FAL after installing a new barrel and it will most likely require a different locking shoulder than what's already in the rifle. |
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