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Posted: 3/7/2011 3:44:29 PM EDT
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I just picked up a used GSG today and have a few questions, as I am an AR guy and this is new to me. It has the following lower installed on it currently. The safety selector moves freely and has no definite stop for safe or fire like an AR does. Is this normal? If not, how can I remedy it so that it is.
Also, I can't figure out what the E means between the safe and fire. 
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y211/armyhawaii/Guns/DSCN1090.jpg It came with, what I assume is the original grip with just safe and fire. Can I switch back to that so it will function like I want it too? http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z117/mach1run/Guns/th_DSC_8895S.jpg |
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Shelbygoat-
The lower is an airsoft SEF lower. S-safe, E- single shot F- auto in a REAL full auto HK. Yours is cosmetic and should only go bang once per trigger pull. Your factory lower will work fine, just with no bling. The GSG safety lever can be made to fit, but a real HK safety is much nicer. There are a lot of posts about this conversion, lately POPCOP has one about using a real HK safety selector switch. |
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Quoted:
Shelbygoat- The lower is an airsoft SEF lower. S-safe, E- single shot F- auto in a REAL full auto HK. Yours is cosmetic and should only go bang once per trigger pull. Your factory lower will work fine, just with no bling. The GSG safety lever can be made to fit, but a real HK safety is much nicer. There are a lot of posts about this conversion, lately POPCOP has one about using a real HK safety selector switch. Thank you, from a limited amount of research I found it was a SEF lower, but just couldn't find out what the E meant. Mainly want the selector to perform like an AR, which goes "click" in each setting in either lower. I will do a bit more digging on here. |
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E is for Eins (one)
If you switch to an HK safety it will go click like an AR. You have to enlarge the holes a smidge but once done they lock in with a click you can hear. I did mine that way and it is a world of difference. Feels solid too, not mushy. Does yours fire in the E and F position or just the E? Just wondering. I set up mine to only fire in the E because the F position seems too far to push into with my thumb. Old picture of mine before i did the other safety mod, this one used a small set screw that i didn't like too much. 
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I have not fired it yet. I broke it down (thanks to youtube) cleaned it, lubed it, and put it back together. I should be getting out to fire it this week, possibly tomorrow.
I will scour the internet in search of an HK safety and see if I can make it work like that. I don't like it mushy and want it to train with and be similar to my AR. this should be the right one? |
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If you are good with tools order 1, if not order 2. If you don't mess up the first one you can sell the second one once you have
milled it. I picked up a used rear sight for cheap here, but don't see it anymore. Was around $15 at the time. I also picked up a pair of tropical handguards for $7 ea and cut them to fit and they are very nice. Spray em black and you are good to go. Instructions in here somewhere on how to do it. CAUTION- Tricking out a GSG can become an obsession... I thought my long guns were expensive... Photo shows tropical handguards, HK rear sight, SEF grip, HK safety, HK Airsoft dummy suppressor 
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well crap, guess i will call him tomorrow and change my order to two of em, just in case...
edit: sent em an email just now, hopefully he will shoot me a message back and change my order before they fill it i am willing to dump a bit of money into this gun to run the way I would like it to, just not as much as some other guns! |
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Read this, it is on the top of the page and gives you all kinds of great ideas...
http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=6&f=41&t=244302 Where are you in KY? I was at Fort Knox a long time ago and really liked it there. First time I saw beer served in a metal bucket... |
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Small world, I was at Knox in the 80s (91B-medic in the old days). Never spent a day at Benning, but all my 11B buddies lived there.
Just helped a buddy work on his 522, we replaced a few parts and did the loctite thing. If your GSG is new is may have some.... issues at first. Don't sweat the small stuff and after a few boxes these things run like sewing machines. I have a few other rifles, and this is my favorite for plain fun. Everyone at the range wants to shoot it, and my daughter loves it. Did i mention the loctite? Take care, have fun at Bennings Boys School. |
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this one is on its way to me right now
I dissembled the lower and took out the trigger group and selector off. now the wait for it to come in....to put it in and back together and hope it solves my issue! |
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Quoted:
do you have access to a machine shop, failing that hand tools at Knox? The safety requires a bit of work, I guess you could do it with a file, but a mill would certainly make things easier.... not really, i have a drill and a dremel somewhere if need be i can take it to my local gunsmith if i really eff it up i guess lol mainly need photos and directions on what to do with it once i get it |
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Quoted:
this one is on its way to me right now I dissembled the lower and took out the trigger group and selector off. now the wait for it to come in....to put it in and back together and hope it solves my issue! Step 1. Finding your cut line for safe & fire. (Compare it by studying your OEM selector. or my pictures) This cut is crucial, if you want safe on S and fire on F . You will need and end mill for the job. Step 2. Width and depth of the cut. (check my pictures & Jason's). Step 3. MOST CRITICAL - The set screw cut. This is where I screwed up. Cut too far and your selector will stay loose. Look at my picture in the selector mod problems post. Until that point I was fine. But I kept cutting too far and too thin at the end. Good luck 
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Quoted:
this one is on its way to me right now I dissembled the lower and took out the trigger group and selector off. now the wait for it to come in....to put it in and back together and hope it solves my issue! Step 1. Finding your cut line for safe & fire. (Compare it by studying your OEM selector. or my pictures) This cut is crucial, if you want safe on S and fire on F . You will need and end mill for the job. Step 2. Width and depth of the cut. (check my pictures & Jason's). Step 3. MOST CRITICAL - The set screw cut. This is where I screwed up. Cut too far and your selector will stay loose. Look at my picture in the selector mod problems post. Until that point I was fine. But I kept cutting too far and too thin at the end. Good luck
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