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Posted: 1/11/2014 11:06:05 AM EDT
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I bought a JP large profile comp for my Remington 700. It is the stainless steel version. The directions says the threaded portion should be 5/8" long. The factory threaded portion is only 1/2" long. It also goes on to say the end of the barrel should sit about 1/4" inch down from from the first opening in the comp. That is not possible using the factory threads. Do you think it will make much of a difference?
I'm also trying to find the best way to tighten the comp down. I have spacers to provide correct alignment. The finish is polished SS. I don't want to use a wrench or anything else that isn't rubber coated or something else that won't damage the finish. The first method I was told is to try a strap wrench. That didn't seem like it was getting it very tight. The other method was to stick the comp in a vice that has rubber pads to protect it. Then turn the rifle. Any other ideas? http://www.jprifles.com/buy.php?item=JPTRE-5.58S.875 |
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If it was me I would cut the barrel back, recrown it (you will get a better crown anyways) and thread it to 5/8 x 24 x. .620 (standard 5/8 thread pattern). A good Smith will time the brake/threads so no shims are required.
I use sheet lead or copper to protect a finish when tightening items. |
| I have the 700 AAC-SD which already has the 5/8-24 threads. The overall length is .5 instead of the standard .625 like you mentioned. Would it be possible to extend the existing threads? I'd rather not shorten the barrel as I would've preferred a longer one to begin with. Either that or maybe have a longer barrel made for it. |
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They recommend "about 5/8". With the 1/2 threads you already have there is negligible concern that the brake will not be adequately secured to the barrel. I double you will see a difference having the threads set back .125 more than they are now. To do this you will need a lathe or a knowledgeable smith who can pick up the threads if your requirement is that the barrel will not be shortened. If you are installing the brake on a gun that you are having threaded, instruct the gunsmith to fit the brake to the barrel by removing material from shoulder of the barrel or the back of the brake so that it just tightens up in the level position, thereby eliminating the need for a crush washer or jam nut and resulting in the most cosmetically appealing installation. What is done when it is timed is that the shoulder of the barrel where the brake will bare is cut back in very small increments so that when the brake is tightened down it is oriented properly in relation to the barrel. This a custom job that requires a lathe. I would recommend against a crush washer install. Looks tacky. |
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