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Posted: 12/2/2011 3:13:09 PM EDT
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Just got my sturdy gun safe a few days ago and I am looking it over. It is a bit on the "rough" side as far as finish goes (burs, undercut on welds...), but overall seems like a very solid unit.
I have one question though - there is a long bolt in the vertical position between the door and the S&G lock. This bolt is loose (seems intentional). The bolt has a lock-nut partially threaded on it. Does anyone know what this is for? |
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Just got my sturdy gun safe a few days ago and I am looking it over. It is a bit on the "rough" side as far as finish goes (burs, undercut on welds...), but overall seems like a very solid unit. I have one question though - there is a long bolt in the vertical position between the door and the S&G lock. This bolt is loose (seems intentional). The bolt has a lock-nut partially threaded on it. Does anyone know what this is for? Yeah I have to admit, they would do well to spend an hour or so re-burring and dressing up the interior a bit. Thing is though, most gun safe companies are hiding their sloppy fabrication behind carpeted drywall etc. With Sturdy, their steel, welds, brackets etc are front and center for you to see (for the non-fire lined) which I personally like even though the heavy welds can sometimes look a little rough but believe me, compared to the fabrication I see in industry, it's very clean work. a1abdj posted this photo the other day (hope you don't mind me re-posting) and I'm kind of surprised I never saw it before; it shows what is below that cover (hard plate, combo box) I have the same bolt setup as well and have speculated myself. I suspect it was put there as a security measure of some sort but I don't know for sure. Here's what it looks like underneath the cover so you can see how the bolt is situated with respect to the hardplate. 
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Just got my sturdy gun safe a few days ago and I am looking it over. It is a bit on the "rough" side as far as finish goes (burs, undercut on welds...), but overall seems like a very solid unit. I have one question though - there is a long bolt in the vertical position between the door and the S&G lock. This bolt is loose (seems intentional). The bolt has a lock-nut partially threaded on it. Does anyone know what this is for? Yeah I have to admit, they would do well to spend an hour or so re-burring and dressing up the interior a bit. Thing is though, most gun safe companies are hiding their sloppy fabrication behind carpeted drywall etc. With Sturdy, their steel, welds, brackets etc are front and center for you to see (for the non-fire lined) which I personally like even though the heavy welds can sometimes look a little rough but believe me, compared to the fabrication I see in industry, it's very clean work. a1abdj posted this photo the other day (hope you don't mind me re-posting) and I'm kind of surprised I never saw it before; it shows what is below that cover (hard plate, combo box) I have the same bolt setup as well and have speculated myself. I suspect it was put there as a security measure of some sort but I don't know for sure. Here's what it looks like underneath the cover so you can see how the bolt is situated with respect to the hardplate. http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx223/bryankm_bucket/sturdylock.jpg Based on this picture I cant see what that bolt would do. Interesting. First I have to figure out how to get the 3627 from my garage to my basement, then I have to figure out what that bolt does. 
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Very interesting post. Where are the relockers on the sturdy safe? I thought one was on the combo box, not sure where the second one is. Anyone have any ideas? According to their website, the second relock is also located behind the hardplate. 2 Independent Re-Locks
Sturdy Safes' relockers cannot be easily defeated ... Sturdy Safe has designed their re-lock system to engage in a particular manner. The result; the relocks engages in accordance with the amount of force being used in the attack. It's a smart relock design because this pressure activated relock will only fire when it's needed. It's also protected behind the hard plate, so once engaged, it is a very serious relock, and hard to disengage. The other relock can be found the S&G combination box. Not sure how it works but I suspect it's setup so that if you drill in the wrong location or at the wrong angle, it will fire that relock. |
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Complete speculation on my part but I say it plays some role in deflecting an incoming drill bit. Unless you hit it dead center the bit would role off probably breaking the bit in the process.
I don't have a sturdy so I'm going off of the picture and description Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Complete speculation on my part but I say it plays some role in deflecting an incoming drill bit. Unless you hit it dead center the bit would role off probably breaking the bit in the process.
Almost any hardplate, installed in any fashion, and at any angle, would stop the average person with a drill from drilling through the plate. For somebody who is experienced, and equipped to drill hard plate, it doesn't matter how it's installed or if it's an an angle. The experienced people also know how to avoid the plate all together in some cases. What does make a big difference is the plate itself. There is some pretty nasty stuff out there, but I don't think I've ever seen any of it in gun safes. Some of the nastiest stuff isn't even steel. Overall, I don't think it's really that big of a deal on most gun safes. You typically have to do more than drill a hole to get the safe open, and that requires specific knowledge. People with that knowledge aren't slowed down much, and those without it wouldn't have much luck anyway. There are also a few opening options that wouldn't require a hole at all, but again, most people with those types of tools or experience aren't interested in gun safes. |
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What does make a big difference is the plate itself. There is some pretty nasty stuff out there, but I don't think I've ever seen any of it in gun safes. Some of the nastiest stuff isn't even steel.
It's an available $75 dollar upgrade option on Sturdy. They don't recommend it and the option voids part of their warranty (the safe will have to be cut open in other words.) Complete speculation on my part but I say it plays some role in deflecting an incoming drill bit. Unless you hit it dead center the bit would role off probably breaking the bit in the process.
Yes jamierah1, pure speculation on my part as well but I think it's either there to disrupt the traditional drill point of that combo box (standard dimensions to most) or to act as a support against the free floating hardplate for a low approach angle to the hardplate. Terry is a very smart designer so I'm sure he has designed the defense of the combo box for someone who "thinks" he knows where to drill. |
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It's an available $75 dollar upgrade option on Sturdy. They don't recommend it and the option voids part of their warranty (the safe will have to be cut open in other words.)
Seems like a good way to get out of a warranty claim to me. There's nothing they're putting in that safe that can't be drilled easily by somebody who knows what they're doing. Yes jamierah1, pure speculation on my part as well but I think it's either there to disrupt the traditional drill point of that combo box (standard dimensions to most) or to act as a support against the free floating hardplate for a low approach angle to the hardplate. Terry is a very smart designer so I'm sure he has designed the defense of the combo box for someone who "thinks" he knows where to drill.
There's no particular place you have to drill for normal break in purposes. A hole usually only needs to be in a specific spot to overcome a specific type of failure. A hole anywhere would work for a thief. Of course what are you going to do once there's a hole there? And any thief that knows what to do with a hole isn't going to need to go through the hard plate at all. It's just not that big of a deal. All safes should have hardplate, but there's rarely a need to get fancy on a gun safe. |
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What does make a big difference is the plate itself. There is some pretty nasty stuff out there, but I don't think I've ever seen any of it in gun safes. Some of the nastiest stuff isn't even steel.
It's an available $75 dollar upgrade option on Sturdy. They don't recommend it and the option voids part of their warranty (the safe will have to be cut open in other words.) Complete speculation on my part but I say it plays some role in deflecting an incoming drill bit. Unless you hit it dead center the bit would role off probably breaking the bit in the process.
Yes jamierah1, pure speculation on my part as well but I think it's either there to disrupt the traditional drill point of that combo box (standard dimensions to most) or to act as a support against the free floating hardplate for a low approach angle to the hardplate. Terry is a very smart designer so I'm sure he has designed the defense of the combo box for someone who "thinks" he knows where to drill. A professional safe and vault tech, will be able to bypass any of Terry's or Amsec, or Graffunder, or anyone else's designs for a lock mech, up to and including a malfunctioning Diebold bank vault door. It's just a matter of time and money, how many hours and drill bits, etc. Most better gun safes, Amsec, Sturdy, Ft Knox, Summit, etc have adequate proviosions for protecting guns, which is just about all they should be expected to protect. No gunsafe should be used for anything else, unless they're just retrofitted real safes like Graffunder's or some others. |
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What does make a big difference is the plate itself. There is some pretty nasty stuff out there, but I don't think I've ever seen any of it in gun safes. Some of the nastiest stuff isn't even steel.
It's an available $75 dollar upgrade option on Sturdy. They don't recommend it and the option voids part of their warranty (the safe will have to be cut open in other words.) Complete speculation on my part but I say it plays some role in deflecting an incoming drill bit. Unless you hit it dead center the bit would role off probably breaking the bit in the process.
Yes jamierah1, pure speculation on my part as well but I think it's either there to disrupt the traditional drill point of that combo box (standard dimensions to most) or to act as a support against the free floating hardplate for a low approach angle to the hardplate. Terry is a very smart designer so I'm sure he has designed the defense of the combo box for someone who "thinks" he knows where to drill. A professional safe and vault tech, will be able to bypass any of Terry's or Amsec, or Graffunder, or anyone else's designs for a lock mech, up to and including a malfunctioning Diebold bank vault door. It's just a matter of time and money, how many hours and drill bits, etc. Most better gun safes, Amsec, Sturdy, Ft Knox, Summit, etc have adequate proviosions for protecting guns, which is just about all they should be expected to protect. No gunsafe should be used for anything else, unless they're just retrofitted real safes like Graffunder's or some others. You're not saying anything that everyone here doesn't already know. Anyone can cut into any safe with power tools bought at Walmart including a Graffunder. It's all how much you want to spend to buy yourself some more time. |
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