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Here's another one, for a couple hundred less, though.

http://www.adcofirearms.com/itemdetails_.cfm?inventorynumber=3823

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i'm looking for a decent, entry level suppressor. any suggestions?
i have a Stag m8 piston, it that matters.

i've been looking at a:
http://www.silencershop.com/shop/yhm-phantom-qd
$455 but the attachment is butt ugly

http://www.silencershop.com/shop/aac-ranger-2
$461

http://www.silencershop.com/shop/aac-m4-1000
$554

these are just the few i'm checking out, i'm still open for other options.  i'd like to stay in this price range.

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The m4-1000 is a really good can.  I have been happy with mine (had it several years).

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should i worry if mine is a piston?

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I would think about a multi-caliber can.  I just waited 7 months for my 7.62 QD Phantom Titanium and was pretty happy I could use it on my 700 and my AR while I wait on the next can.  

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Is it safe to fire 556 out of the 762?

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Consider spending a little more and getting something you'll be happy with long term. A supressor you almost own for life since there's essentially no second hand market for them, since you will never recoup the $200 stamp money.
If you are looking for a multi-use can it's hard to go wrong with the AAC 762-SDN-6. It's not the quietest or lightest can, but you can run anything from 308, thorough 6.8SPC, 6.5G, 300 BLK and 5.56 through it. It's also all inconel so it's going to be more durable than anything short of a KAC NT4. Surefire and AAC are tops IMO as irelates to mounting options. If you want something lighter go with one of the Surefire 556 cans.

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Get the best one you can afford.  Buy once, cry once.  There really isnt any entry into suppressors.  You get what you pay for, and you will likely be stuck with it.

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I have the YHM 556 QD.  It is just as quiet to my ears as the AAC you mention but it is a heavy pig.  I use mine on a piston SBR.  If it is any louder when running a piston gun suppressed then it is likely only 3 dB or so and you won't be able to tell a difference.  And I think my piston does stay cleaner even with the suppressor on it than a DI gun.  It is still dirty to run suppressed, no doubt.  But I will argue that it is still slightly cleaner running than a DI system.  I recently ran a 1k round class with the vast majority of it suppressed and never did clean it until it was over.  It wasn't nearly as gunked up as I had expected.  If I had to do it all over again I would spend the extra $ on a suppressor with adequate sound reduction BUT that was as light as I could find.  The AAC Ranger or the Gemtech Trek would be in my top choices.  I would likely permanently attach it to the my SBR.  I have found I really rarely shoot the SBR without the suppressor anyway and the QD mount adds weight and length.

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As the OP said, there is no entry level suppressor.  Suppressors require a transfer tax even for in state private sales so whatever you get is instantly worth $200 less than a new one.

The actual can cost isn't all you'll spend.   You're going to spend $150 each threading & shipping 2 rifles ($300).  $200 on the transfer tax.  $50 to transfer dealer.  $50 on a heat shield.  $20 on fingerprints.  $5 on passport photos.  $10 on mailing the paperwork.  $50 on cell phone bills calling the dealer asking if its in yet, and on and on and on.  Buy a good can to start with.  It's too much of time investment to go cheap and you'll never be able to sell it anyway (trans tax issue, and technology always getting better).

Thread Rifles: $300
Transfer Tax:  $200
Transfer Fee:  $50
Heat Shield:  $50
Paperwork:  $35

That's a conservative $635 worth of support equipment which, if you bought a very nice $900 can is an additional 71% of the can cost.  Total cost of $1535.  If you bought a cheap can that you won't be pleased with, it'll still cost about $500 and total cost will still be $1135 and you won't have a nice can for the rest of your life.  Plus all the untold days of waiting for your toy.  Research your purchase well, get a good one, and get maximum versatility.

I would second the idea to get a 308 can and just use it on 5.56.  5.56 doesn't suppress that well anyway.  308 suppresses a lot better.  In most cases, a 308 suppressor will quiet 5.56 almost as much as a 5.56 can AND it's a lot safer to use on 308 than a 5.56 can.

I would also recommend a direct attach (threaded) suppressor.  Most of the baffle strike, accuracy, and other problems you hear about are from QA/QD setups.  Threaded is simple and precise.

If you want an all purpose can for 9mm, 22LR, 22 MAG 5.56, 300 Whisper, and 308 Subsonic, take a look at the Liberty Mystic Multi-caliber Takedown Suppressor  It comes apart so you can clean it so it works fine transitioning from centerfire to rimfire and back again.

I'm saving for a Mystic.  Right now I have a Liberty Kodiak TL rimfire takedown can and a Liberty Freedom 308 can.  Very pleased with both.

-David
Edgewood, NM

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I have only noticed a reduction of about 35db according to silencetshop, but thats not typo say they have more else where in other sites. I think I will most likely shoot it on all the time too. Have u ever wanted to not use it, what's your experience with shooting ranges. Do they frown upon it?

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Sorry if I didn't make my writing clear.  I meant that the dB difference between a suppressed DI rifle and a suppressed piston rifle will only be about 3 dB with all else being equal.  The actual suppressor will reduce the sound by about 35dB like you read.  Shooting a suppressed 5.56AR sounds kinda like shooting 22lr unsuppressed.  Most definitely quieter but at the same time not really "quiet" like a suppressed 22lr or 9mm is.  

My range is fine with me shooting suppressed but it can draw interest so be ready to talk to people about NFA.

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You'll need to have a pro check if your AR threads are true and that the shoulder is machined square to the bore.  Lots of AR's don't have threads true to the bore, meaning they're not on center or not aligned with the bore or the shoulder isn't square.  None of this is a problem with a flashider, but with a suppressor, everything has to be precisely aligned or you'll get a baffle strike.

Baffle strike chances are reduced if you use a 308 can on a 5.56.  Depending upon the construction of the can, a baffle strike can totally destroy it or just make it a little louder.  All depends upon how bad the strike is.

And inevitably you'll want to thread a couple other rifles to use the can.  A can on a 5.56 AR is disappointing, but it's magical on a bolt gun!  Pretty darn magical as well on a 300 Whisper/Blackout AR.

-David
Edgewod, NM

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Thanks for the input, younsold me on getting a 308. Now your scaring me about a non-center bore. I plan on getting a sbr to permatly attach to it. That should solve the problm imwould think. I will have to do more reseach before a purchase.

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22lr quite sounds fine to me.  i dont expect it to be like Hollywood. I am really considering permantly attch. That just means i need a sbr first.

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Get the best one you can afford.  Buy once, cry once.  There really isnt any entry into suppressors.  You get what you pay for, and you will likely be stuck with it.

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You'll need to have a pro check if your AR threads are true and that the shoulder is machined square to the bore.  Lots of AR's don't have threads true to the bore, meaning they're not on center or not aligned with the bore or the shoulder isn't square.  None of this is a problem with a flashider, but with a suppressor, everything has to be precisely aligned or you'll get a baffle strike.

Baffle strike chances are reduced if you use a 308 can on a 5.56.  Depending upon the construction of the can, a baffle strike can totally destroy it or just make it a little louder.  All depends upon how bad the strike is.

And inevitably you'll want to thread a couple other rifles to use the can.  A can on a 5.56 AR is disappointing, but it's magical on a bolt gun!  Pretty darn magical as well on a 300 Whisper/Blackout AR.

-David
Edgewod, NM

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As the OP said, there is no entry level suppressor. Suppressors require a transfer tax even for in state private sales so whatever you get is instantly worth $200 less than a new one.



The actual can cost isn't all you'll spend. You're going to spend $150 each threading & shipping 2 rifles ($300). $200 on the transfer tax. $50 to transfer dealer. $50 on a heat shield. $20 on fingerprints. $5 on passport photos. $10 on mailing the paperwork. $50 on cell phone bills calling the dealer asking if its in yet, and on and on and on. Buy a good can to start with. It's too much of time investment to go cheap and you'll never be able to sell it anyway (trans tax issue, and technology always getting better).



Thread Rifles: $300

Transfer Tax: $200

Transfer Fee: $50

Heat Shield: $50

Paperwork: $35



That's a conservative $635 worth of support equipment which, if you bought a very nice $900 can is an additional 71% of the can cost. Total cost of $1535. If you bought a cheap can that you won't be pleased with, it'll still cost about $500 and total cost will still be $1135 and you won't have a nice can for the rest of your life. Plus all the untold days of waiting for your toy. Research your purchase well, get a good one, and get maximum versatility.



I would second the idea to get a 308 can and just use it on 5.56. 5.56 doesn't suppress that well anyway. 308 suppresses a lot better. In most cases, a 308 suppressor will quiet 5.56 almost as much as a 5.56 can AND it's a lot safer to use on 308 than a 5.56 can.



I would also recommend a direct attach (threaded) suppressor. Most of the baffle strike, accuracy, and other problems you hear about are from QA/QD setups. Threaded is simple and precise.



If you want an all purpose can for 9mm, 22LR, 22 MAG 5.56, 300 Whisper, and 308 Subsonic, take a look at the Liberty Mystic Multi-caliber Takedown Suppressor It comes apart so you can clean it so it works fine transitioning from centerfire to rimfire and back again.



I'm saving for a Mystic. Right now I have a Liberty Kodiak TL rimfire takedown can and a Liberty Freedom 308 can. Very pleased with both.



-David

Edgewood, NM

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who makes the integral upper? would i still need to pay the $200 tax? i would think i do, but since its part of the upper, would i get around that?