Posted: 4/8/2016 11:06:21 PM EDT
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I went and looked at a 1969 GTX today in a storage unit. Anyway, he is asking $5000 for the car. Included is a 440hp + 727, both rear quarter skins, doghouse from another vehicle (frame rails, tortion bar box, inner fenders, support plates). Looks pretty complete, maybe 90% as the engine compartment was stripped and I didn't inquire about the parts.
The good: the replacement parts I mentioned above, real GTX, silver, black vinyl top, black interior. Cowl is good, good glass. The bad: drivers front frame rail is rusted, pretty bad. Inner fenders were cut for wheel well headers, rear quarters are shot, rear edge of both doors has rust through, drivers side rocker has rust through. Could not get in trunk but he said it should probably be replaced. The rear dutchman panel / window filler looked like it could have rot. The roof...vinyl and there was some crunchiness and bubbling arond the rear panels. He said he has a spare roof for it so I suspect it may be bad too. The car was packed in pretty tight with parts so I wasn't able to get a great view of whatever wasn't in plain sight. It would be a handful but I really like the car. I am on the fence and trying to get a handle on the labor involved to bring it back to a rust free shell. What would you pay? I have room for another project to suck the life out of my bank accout 
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http://uscartool.com/body-in-white
this is pretty much the place that tried to make this sort of thing standardized. 18k basically to get it ready for paint. then 5 to 10k for paint. another 2 or 3k for interior. then you still have the drive train, wheels and tires. unless this specific car is talking to you, there are probably others that are done you could pick up cheaper. of course corners could be cut and you could get out cheaper. |
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You are suppose to be talking me out of it!!!!
Here are the pics the seller has posted up. These are old. When he opened the garage door I didn't even know a car was in there because he had quite a collection of old Mopar parts. 
Yes, AMD repops all the panels. Sheetmetal will cost me $3500 + and that is not including my labor to put it in (yes, doing it myself because I like doing it). But there is a bunch that needs attention. I will wait until the end of the month and see if he still has it, if not...glad someone will fix her up. Plus I told him I would ask around if anyone is interested. |
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I always loved the GTX. I just built a dart that was straight and still uncovered weeks of needed body work. If its in your budget, I say $5k for a clean shell that needs some work, plus a motor and tranny is a damn good deal. BUT its less of a deal if its just going to sit in your garage or worse yet, barn or back yard for years while you "get around to it." If you've got the cash and ability to jump into, and finish, the body work right away, then do it smiling.
https://www.ar15.com/mobile/topic.html?b=1&f=134&t=1719143 |
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I always loved the GTX. I just built a dart that was straight and still uncovered weeks of needed body work. If its in your budget, I say $5k for a clean shell that needs some work, plus a motor and tranny is a damn good deal. BUT its less of a deal if its just going to sit in your garage or worse yet, barn or back yard for years while you "get around to it." If you've got the cash and ability to jump into, and finish, the body work right away, then do it smiling. https://www.ar15.com/mobile/topic.html?b=1&f=134&t=1719143 Very nice project! My biggest issue is that I will work on it every day because I do not like to have unfinished projects. Which results in me spending waaaaaaay too much money getting parts to finish instead of doing it a bit at a time. So no, it will not just sit around. Another issue is I don't have garage space for it right now. I could get it in but would rather keep my running vehicles cozy. I'm in Yuma so rain is rare. I had already thought out laying down landing mat on the enclosed side on my garage to do the body work. Easy to weld to for bracing as well. My last project was a 1962 Plymouth that was rust free so I am a bit spoiled. Every 68 to 69 B body is either a basket case or restored. Prices go form $3500-$5000 to $25k to 35k with no in between. Still on the fence. It has always been my dream car 68 to 69 (either RR, Super Bee or GTX). |
| Honestly. I'd rather see you get it running and road worthy and leave the body and interior on as found condition. I've blown 10s of thousands on restoring these things and to be 100% honest I enjoyed them the most in "as found" condition. Plus it's more interest g to see them that way as it's more realistic. |
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Honestly. I'd rather see you get it running and road worthy and leave the body and interior on as found condition. I've blown 10s of thousands on restoring these things and to be 100% honest I enjoyed them the most in "as found" condition. Plus it's more interest g to see them that way as it's more realistic. The plan if I get it. 1. Patch and repair frame rot. 2. Inspect, patch and repair rocker panels 3. Replace inner front fenders. 4. Replace both quarters and possibly inner quarters, trunk and extensions (this is the big one) 5. Patch or replace floor 6. Remove vinyl top and pray for the best 7. Evaluate motor and transmission. Install and set up drivetrain. 8. Repair or replace the hundreds of other parts that need attention. And that is three grand for stamped metal for starters. I don't plan to do a full restore. I would like to get it decent as a driver as it is not going on a rotisserie. I will be happy with good sheetmetal. Everything else is easy 
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5k ? with just about all parts and only negatives are rusted stuff like the frame rails that are easily replaced just labor intensive and repro parts are easliy found and it's a real GTX?.
Give me the guys number. 
Might want to check out For B Bodies Only (not sure if we can link sites in here) lots of info there. Otherwise take a photo of the fender tag so you can determine what exactly it came from the factory with. Also.. it will prove its a GTX. Then after that.. when its running you can sell it to me. I offered a guy over his asking price on a real 70 RR w/4 speed and he chose not to sell it to me  It was a unicorn. I think about it at least once a day since it happened last week.
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Quoted:
5k ? with just about all parts and only negatives are rusted stuff like the frame rails that are easily replaced just labor intensive and repro parts are easliy found and it's a real GTX?. Give me the guys number.
Might want to check out For B Bodies Only (not sure if we can link sites in here) lots of info there. Otherwise take a photo of the fender tag so you can determine what exactly it came from the factory with. Also.. it will prove its a GTX. Then after that.. when its running you can sell it to me. I offered a guy over his asking price on a real 70 RR w/4 speed and he chose not to sell it to me It was a unicorn. I think about it at least once a day since it happened last week.I'm a member at FBBO and at FABO. Wealth of information to be certain. I hate you all  I guess I'll give him a call and get a few more details. It's only money, right?
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If you have to farm out sheetmetal replacement and rust repair, be careful because it's easy to have more into the car than it's worth. There are a bunch of one year only trim parts on a '69 GTX so replacements are difficult to find and therefore expensive, the reproduction pieces are very disappointing in regards to fit and finish.
On the plus side, '69 GTx's are pretty damn cool cars, although I am a little biased... 
A real GTX vin will start with RS23 (hardtop) or RS27 (convertible) |
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Quoted:
If you have to farm out sheetmetal replacement and rust repair, be careful because it's easy to have more into the car than it's worth. There are a bunch of one year only trim parts on a '69 GTX so replacements are difficult to find and therefore expensive, the reproduction pieces are very disappointing in regards to fit and finish. On the plus side, '69 GTx's are pretty damn cool cars, although I am a little biased... http://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah245/blackgtx/GTX/34hi_zpsvtg6vitq.jpg A real GTX vin will start with RS23 (hardtop) or RS27 (convertible) That GTX is nice!!! RS23L car with air grabber option and tach. I just got off the phone with him to verify other parts and pieces. Seems he has everything including the front grill and bumper which I must have missed in the pile of parts. I didn't ask about the wheel well and body chrome trim, I don't like the looks of it to tell you the truth so I will probably go solid silver with black top and stripe. Engine is a 1969 hp440 and sitting at his house, transmission is in the trunk. I need to wrangle up a friend with a truck that has a ball hitch and go pay the man and bring the GTX home. He still has the Missouri title from the guy he bought it from so he is going to photocopy that bill of sale, make a new one between us and sign the title. Hope that works for title and registration in AZ.
I am excited and apprehensive, lot of work to do to it. I will try and do everything myself as I am not looking for a show quality car but one I can drive without worrying about. |
