Quoted:
Nailed it!

F450/550 brakes would be suited to stop that weight.
Those have plenty of rotor and pad to stop alot of weight.
I don't miss having to do backing plates on those... I'd watch jackasses grab the heaviest sledge hammer they owned to pound the piss out of the rear wheels or grab the oxy-acetylene torch to heat the steel wheels up (because rust)
I own the dually buddy impact gun and essentially a gear puller that goes in the vent hole of the wheel.
Zip the hex head with the impact, go 180° from it hit it with the impact BANG that bitch let's go, wheel comes right off in a cloud of rust... 19.5 Alcoas were the worst! I broke my first dually buddy pulling 19.5 Alcoas from a F450 king ranch.

Then they'd grab a floor jack and 2x4s after they remove the hub nut and outer wheel bearing and struggle balancing while pulling it off the truck.
Me, I'd just bear hug the rotor and take the whole assembly off with the spindle at chest height. Need a good lift, Rotary makes the best truck lifts
Fuck those Mickey Mouse Mohawk lifts teeter totters of doom! If I had it my way those fucking things would be scrapped.
Yup. Used to sell a ton of backing plates for super duties for state inspection.
Get 3 years tops out of them. Especially! Especially if it were a 350-550 dump truck with a plow and sander/salt spreader in the bed.
I used to take the PM-13-A and coat them, and 6.0 and 6.4 and 7.3 oil pans. I did so many oil pans due to rust... quicklane kids they'd get a plow truck...
Do an oil change on it and come over half covered in oil eyes as big as a full moon, holding the drain plug attached to about a 4 inch patch of rotten oil pan and they say... dude... what do I do?! Am I going to get in trouble?! They're a waiter too
That's when I'd smile and say... welp. Waiters gon wait now ain't they?
MAC sold the 2.5-10mm 1/4 inch drive turbo sockets in .25 mm increments. Best investment made. Used to pound those sockets on damn near non existent or rust bloomed oil pan bolts, hope and pray the head of the bolt doesn't snap off...

Boomer techs would shit when they'd see me do 7.3 oil pans.
HHNNNGGGGG! You gotta pull the motor and turn it upside down! That silicone won't seal unless the engine is upside down on a stand!

Fuck you, no, you dont. Watch. The future is now old man. SAME attitude for 6.0s when I'd do head gaskets on them, HNNGGG Ford says you can't mill the heads! And why are you pulling the cab punk! Just use the engine crane and bracket! No. Because I'm putting studs in. HNNGGG That's not a Ford approved repair! Yeah. Well. If they don't want to pay for head gaskets again, the pen being mightier than the sword... fuck em. They won't know it has studs. Dude needs this truck for a living. I don't work on em pops. I fix em.

Then the 6.4s came out... a truck. They designed to pull the cab on. it was faster to do high pressure fuel pumps and turbos in cab than it was hassling with pulling the cab on those. Used to smoke warranty time by whole hours but I'd run the clock over by 1.5 2 hours while I worked on something else that way when the bean counters do their time studies they would see a time deficit. But noooo.... guys in California Nevada Arizona who don't see real weather or know what rust even is, have to smoke the SLTS labor OP times by 2 3 4 5 hours that way Ford can lower their labor OP times and piss everyone in the rust belt off.
Techs for getting their throats cut because the book doesn't see rust and corrosion... customers, because a tech tried to beat the clock and did shoddy work.
Writers and managers for dealing with angry customers and techs. If you're a virgin, go work at a Ford dealer, flat rate, as a tech. You will get all the fuckin in the world. Long hard and continuously. Your booty hole will be bagged out like a slinky. Looking like an angry babboon with a sore ass from being in the building for 40-50 hours and only making 25-32 hours per week doing it by the book.

7.3 oil pans... I'll take that job at 2pm and have it done and ready to drive tomorrow morning taking my sweet time. They'd scoff and say it'll be back or never leave due to a leak and to do it their way. "Trust me kid, it's gonna leak! But you go ahead and do it your way smart ass!"
I'd ask if they were betting men and I'd put my entire paycheck against theirs a couple took me up on it. Come pay day I'd say just give me a 20 and we're even. Don't ever tell me it can't be done. I'll go out of my way and prove you wrong.

Drain the oil, jackhammer the oil filter off because those pricks always seized on and I always broke strap wrenches. Knocked a service writer out cold once when it snapped and well... socked him square between the eyes. I told him not to stand there... but noooooo.... he had to be nosy and see what was going on to tell a waiter what was taking so long... head snapped back bounced off the tire and down he went like a sack of potatoes snoring.
Pull the fan shroud, Yank the tranny out, get 3 pole jacks/dead mans, undo the engine mounts, lower the truck gently until the pole jacks/Deadmans were at the dog ears on the block and 1 on the crank pulley. Drop the pan, snake your arm up drop the pickup tube bolts drop the pan and pickup tube assembly. 9 times out of 10 the dip stick tube would be rotten so I wouldn't bother removing that from the valve cover stud nut. I always sold a new one... Unless the truck was pristine. Which they never were... they were always rotted pretty badly... brake clean the shit out of everything, I made a cardboard cut out that went inside the crank case, cookie wheel in the die grinder, get the old rtv off the block. Brake clean the shit out of the pan rails. New pan, I'd take the cookie wheel to the pan rails and remove the paint that way the rtv had a good Bond to the metal, grab a tube of 7.3 oil pan glue and caulk gun, install the dip stick tube adapter to the pan, get a good bead of grey goop on the pan, get the new pick up tube gasket/o-ring, carefully get the pan/pickup tube back in. Get the pickup tube bolts in tight first, gently cautiously get all of the pan bolts started then run them all home in a criss cross pattern. Trim the excess off let it sit over night. Next morning, come in, reinstall everything fill it with oil. Defeat the book time by hours. Never had one leak. I used to reseal the timing cover (7.3s-6.4s timing cover is in the rear of the block, cams go in from behind) and replace the rear mains as well.

4.6s and 5.4s the same shit would happen. I made a tool up for them. That way you didn't have to pull the exhaust manifold to get them off. Use a spiral flute stud/bolt extractor that I had from a swap meet. Old old snap on set back when they were made of real steel. Weld an old pinion nut to it, go in from the top, snake it in behind the manifold with a half inch drive extension pound that fucker in turn it counter clock wise from beneath with the flex head ratchet on it, heat the bung hole for the dip stick tube with a Mapp gas torch, spray a little brake clean if it didn't want to comply. Brake clean was amazing for helping bust the swelled up O ring and break the rust Bond up... once it started spinning smack the bottom of the old pinion nut with a small ball peen hammer and out it comes.

Exhaust manifolds on 4.6 5.4 6.8 always would come in with broken studs. Especially the V10s... they were the most notorious bastards for having manifold leaks due to broken/missing studs.
If the studs were in tact. I'd let the engine idle. Never get hot or up to temp. Grab the 13mm turbo socket low profile flex head ratchet a pry bar to push up behind the ratchet to keep it on the nut, take the nut and stud out in one shot usually. But if the studs were broke in the head? Fuck drilling. If you want to waste time and drill bits have at it. Me? I'd try to get the aluminum oxidation that was built up around the stud shank out with picks and whatever else, take a deburing tool chuck it up in a die grinder zip it out clean it out as best I could, weld a nut to the stud and get the studs out. That was the best way to get a stud out of a head. Galvanic corrosion is the worst.

I don't miss swinging wrenches in the northeast coming home with pockets full of rust, hair/scalp full of rust.
Bay floor stained red for 2 weeks after. With about 20 pounds of what used to be frame, oil pan, brake components, chassis components etc.
Fuck that.

Quoted:
Was. Not any more

You ever brew A tears of rogueboss beer?

Quoted:
Having worked ina  Ford fleet and owned a few Ford trucks I have never once heard "Super Dutys have notorious awful brakes"  I live in the south. Prone to rust is a product of the environment. Brake line pop is a common problem with Chevrolet's as well. As is internal line failure. Saw it when I worked in a  GM fleet way more than I ever saw it on Fords.  
I will agree and am a fan of better pads. Motorcraft makes a severe duty pad for ambulances , Delco makes a ceramic pad. We used Performance Friction for a lot of out heavily loaded vans.

Quoted:
Who does?  Everyone will make a comment like "this looks to be in bad shape" or "this thing doesn't look safe", but in the end they'll still get in.  Myself included.

Quoted:
This INCIDENT is very tragic, in that it was completely preventable. Stretch limos are some of the least comfortable death traps on wheels. I'd rather be in an econobox car than in a stretch limo any day. Not a damn thing wrong with a regular "black/white town car" or Yukon XL.

@1srelluc
Aren't you a current or former EMT-B?

Initial reports are the vehicle lost stopping ability. Everyone except the driver was in a compartment of the vehicle where protection would be offered by a passive restraint system (seatbelt) and active systems (airbags).

There is very low suitability going from 80km/h to zero in less than 2 seconds or 33 metres, absent those two things, and especially if the thing that creates terminal velocity is perpendicular to travel (think: head on impact).

Everyone in the passenger compartment that was not wearing a seatbelt was a 60mph projectile. Go outside, run as fast as you can into a wall. Do it twice . The first time stick your hands out to break your stop. The 2nd time around you'll be going much slower, from having to deal with broken clavicles, collar bones, wrists, dislocated shoulders and possibly broken elbow, ulnar and humerous as well as a busted rib or four.

Quoted:
I've never seen a limo driver do that.
ETA: If it was sarcasm, sorry, I haven't had all my coffee yet.

Quoted:
I can only see one side of it. If it rotated sideways and smashed into the bank of the ditch then there could have been 17 people pitched headfirst into the side windows and roof. snap crackle pop.

Quoted:
This INCIDENT is very tragic, in that it was completely preventable. Stretch limos are some of the least comfortable death traps on wheels. I'd rather be in an econobox car than in a stretch limo any day. Not a damn thing wrong with a regular "black/white town car" or Yukon XL.

@1srelluc
Aren't you a current or former EMT-B?

Initial reports are the vehicle lost stopping ability. Everyone except the driver was in a compartment of the vehicle where protection would be offered by a passive restraint system (seatbelt) and active systems (airbags).

There is very low suitability going from 80km/h to zero in less than 2 seconds or 33 metres, absent those two things, and especially if the thing that creates terminal velocity is perpendicular to travel (think: head on impact).

Everyone in the passenger compartment that was not wearing a seatbelt was a 60mph projectile. Go outside, run as fast as you can into a wall. Do it twice . The first time stick your hands out to break your stop. The 2nd time around you'll be going much slower, from having to deal with broken clavicles, collar bones, wrists, dislocated shoulders and possibly broken elbow, ulnar and humerous as well as a busted rib or four.

If you can manage a 2nd go with those injuries, expect to see a busted sternum, z bones in the face, teeth, jaw and serious neck injury - all from running into a wall at 15mph.

Quoted:
I would agree. My guess is the side against the bank/trees is destroyed and everything including people were propelled against that side during the impact with great force. All the debris came from that side and inside.

Quoted:

Depends. Possibly YES.

Question is...
If the vehicle failed and was beyond the 10 day grace period following a NYSI...Why didn't NY cancel the registration? Pricks did it to me when a beater of mine lost a transmission and LKQ took their sweet time finding one.

Quoted:
OK Einstein

Explain to everyone how that limo rolls off of a 130 foot cliff and nearly all the windows remain completely UNBROKEN after the incredible impact and forces exerted upon 'said limo' and its passengers