User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 3:43:20 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Good info, however these charts and fuel used are not relevant to the major issues that commonly arise with op’s engine. Specifically the issue I’ve mentioned multiple times. There is no fuel that washes over the intake valves. vaporized oil settles on the intake valves after coming through the pcv system and turns to carbon. carbon build up on pistons and how carbon builds up mostly from fuel is entirely irrelevant to what we’ve been discussing. Again, op’s car does not have fuel going over his intake valves which is where carbon problems routinely present themselves on this engine. You’re right though that it’s likely that op will acquire or has acquired oil that is up to date on its specs. He should double check with you if he has old stock. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Stock change out happens pretty quickly. If you read my previous posts and comprehend it. You would realize what I’m saying. By the time it gets the Sn+ label, they’ve been using the Sn+ additive package for months or years. That way when the Change over happens officially, the consumer is already using the next generation product. Noack is actually not the best indicator of it. It is - indicator. But not the single best anymore. Noack, Astn D5800 - “The NOACK Volatility Test determines the evaporation loss of lubricants in high-temperature service. Accord- ing to the ASTM, “Evaporation may contribute to oil consumption in an engine and can lead to a change in the properties of an oil.” As with the TEOST test, low values in the NOACK Volatility Test are of particular benefit in modern, hot-running engines. In the NOACK test, a candidate oil is exposed to heat and circulating air. Following 60 minutes, the remaining oil volume is weighed and compared to the original weight, with the difference reported as the percentage of weight lost. Results must be limited to 15 percent or less to meet the API SN and ILSAC GF-5 specifications.” Now - you’re getting into the results of Group 3 / group 3+ / Pao and even in group 2 vs group 2+. Group 2+ base oils have a very low NOACK rating. Sometimes lower then a group 3 because they go through the refining process again. And it strips out the light ends even more then the first go around. Plus most group 2+ feed stocks are former PCMO products. Group 3+ - such as the SOPUS product - have a much lower Noack because of the fact they’re made via GTL - not the typical refinery process. PAOs have a low NOACK as well. Because they’re, well, a polymer base really. But every base stock has their own issues. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/148484/baseoils-532924.jpg But does it really matter? According to chevron - No. There’s no major deposit differences in their testing between N13% and N15% https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/148484/6695F1A5-DDF5-468D-A1BC-672839E60291-2171437.jpg As you might notice this is dated 2012. 8 years before GF6 became real. And 6 years before Sn+. Formulations of oils are continually changing. It’s not a set it and forget it thing. Why? Because base oils and base oil technologies are changing all the time. Additives get better, as remember- most wear tests are a minimum. So companies want to exceed this. You see most of this in Diesel engine oils, because the engines go so much longer. Most of the deposit issues you see today are due to fuel. Not oil. Oil helps control the deposit formulations under some of the rings. Good info, however these charts and fuel used are not relevant to the major issues that commonly arise with op’s engine. Specifically the issue I’ve mentioned multiple times. There is no fuel that washes over the intake valves. vaporized oil settles on the intake valves after coming through the pcv system and turns to carbon. carbon build up on pistons and how carbon builds up mostly from fuel is entirely irrelevant to what we’ve been discussing. Again, op’s car does not have fuel going over his intake valves which is where carbon problems routinely present themselves on this engine. You’re right though that it’s likely that op will acquire or has acquired oil that is up to date on its specs. He should double check with you if he has old stock. It does directly affect that… but okay. ILSAC GF2 addressed exactly what you’re concerned about… in 1996. Deposits have to be under 35mg per ASTM D6335. Hasn’t changed. Also Dexos doesn’t address the teost test at all. I just checked the handbook. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 3:43:59 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Why doesn't running the engine at temp for sufficient amounts of time keep the fuel dilution at bay? Obviously if people are taking fairly short trips this doesn't happen but say you only have a 10 minute drive to work each day but you like to take long drives on the weekend, why isn't the accumulated fuel evaporating out of the oil on the long drive? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Op’s specific engine is prone to blowing up from using improper oil. Do you put the improper oil in your vehicle? Do you have to pay 6,000+ when op’s engine blows? /media/mediaFiles/sharedAlbum/giphyggt-462.gif This has happened? The main problem with the 2.3L eco boost today is fuel dilution. In 5-7k miles, the fuel dilution drops it down from a 5w30 to about a w20. We’ve seen this a lot of 2.3L EB engines. So running super extended (10k+) oil drains could become problematic if your engine is getting diluted heavily with fuel. The counter argument is: Ford knows this. And that’s why they recommend a 5w30 over a 5w20 or 0w20. I find things argument very believable. Why doesn't running the engine at temp for sufficient amounts of time keep the fuel dilution at bay? Obviously if people are taking fairly short trips this doesn't happen but say you only have a 10 minute drive to work each day but you like to take long drives on the weekend, why isn't the accumulated fuel evaporating out of the oil on the long drive? Direct Injection simply has enough pressure to blow fuel past the rings, and it's continuous during operation so there isn't enough time to burn off with operating temp. It's been a known thing for a LONG time... just like carbon buildup on the intake vales (no fuel spray cleaning the valves). |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 3:44:46 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I guess they didn't need to address low speed preignition by changing oil specs then huh? Must have been a made up problem. Ford engineers and mechanics will be very surprised to hear that. Op doesn't have to go back too far to find hundreds of posts on his car's forums showing just the opposite. You're out of your element on this and your post about carbon on pistons and fuel shows it. We have spoon fed you fairly politely. You have no respect for a widely respected member here who has answered a lot of questions here. With intelligent evidence to back up his answers. You won't even post your credentials. You are THE PROBLEM here. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 3:45:36 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I guess they didn’t need to address low speed preignition by changing oil specs then huh? Must have been a made up problem. Ford engineers and mechanics will be very surprised to hear that. Op doesn’t have to go back too far to find hundreds of posts on his car’s forums showing just the opposite. You’re out of your element on this and your post about carbon on pistons and fuel shows it. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I’m the largest Ford Motorcraft distributor in the US. By a lot. Every year. If You were correct about Op’s engine blowing, I’d be getting sued every fucking day. I guess they didn’t need to address low speed preignition by changing oil specs then huh? Must have been a made up problem. Ford engineers and mechanics will be very surprised to hear that. Op doesn’t have to go back too far to find hundreds of posts on his car’s forums showing just the opposite. You’re out of your element on this and your post about carbon on pistons and fuel shows it. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 3:48:22 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I guess they didn’t need to address low speed preignition by changing oil specs then huh? Must have been a made up problem. Ford engineers and mechanics will be very surprised to hear that. Op doesn’t have to go back too far to find hundreds of posts on his car’s forums showing just the opposite. You’re out of your element on this and your post about carbon on pistons and fuel shows it. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I’m the largest Ford Motorcraft distributor in the US. By a lot. Every year. If You were correct about Op’s engine blowing, I’d be getting sued every fucking day. I guess they didn’t need to address low speed preignition by changing oil specs then huh? Must have been a made up problem. Ford engineers and mechanics will be very surprised to hear that. Op doesn’t have to go back too far to find hundreds of posts on his car’s forums showing just the opposite. You’re out of your element on this and your post about carbon on pistons and fuel shows it. You’re talking about several different issues. LSPI wasn’t caused by carbon deposits. LSPI was caused by the calcium in the oil. Carbon deposits are a known issue from fuel. Why? Because it means the fuel didn’t detonate completely. This is a known issue with ethanol fuels. As ethanol is hygroscopic. Noack tests address how much oil loss you have. Which can become a deposit issue if you have too much of it. Which is why the GF5 limit was 15% and Dexos was 13%. However as Chevron proved, there’s no real difference in the end result between those two numbers. The teost test also shows when the deposits will happen and how much. The limit being 35mg per astm 6335. Hasn’t changed or been addressed since 1996. I’m not out of my league. You just have no fucking idea what you’re talking about. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 3:48:58 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Direct Injection simply has enough pressure to blow fuel past the rings, and it's continuous during operation so there isn't enough time to burn off with operating temp. It's been a known thing for a LONG time... just like carbon buildup on the intake vales (no fuel spray cleaning the valves). Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Op’s specific engine is prone to blowing up from using improper oil. Do you put the improper oil in your vehicle? Do you have to pay 6,000+ when op’s engine blows? /media/mediaFiles/sharedAlbum/giphyggt-462.gif This has happened? The main problem with the 2.3L eco boost today is fuel dilution. In 5-7k miles, the fuel dilution drops it down from a 5w30 to about a w20. We’ve seen this a lot of 2.3L EB engines. So running super extended (10k+) oil drains could become problematic if your engine is getting diluted heavily with fuel. The counter argument is: Ford knows this. And that’s why they recommend a 5w30 over a 5w20 or 0w20. I find things argument very believable. Why doesn't running the engine at temp for sufficient amounts of time keep the fuel dilution at bay? Obviously if people are taking fairly short trips this doesn't happen but say you only have a 10 minute drive to work each day but you like to take long drives on the weekend, why isn't the accumulated fuel evaporating out of the oil on the long drive? Direct Injection simply has enough pressure to blow fuel past the rings, and it's continuous during operation so there isn't enough time to burn off with operating temp. It's been a known thing for a LONG time... just like carbon buildup on the intake vales (no fuel spray cleaning the valves). Hmm. It would be brilliant if there were an additive in the oil that could grab the lighter fuel hydrocarbons out of solution in the oil and then be captured in the filter somehow. Or you could just change the oil more often. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 3:49:35 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Why doesn't running the engine at temp for sufficient amounts of time keep the fuel dilution at bay? Obviously if people are taking fairly short trips this doesn't happen but say you only have a 10 minute drive to work each day but you like to take long drives on the weekend, why isn't the accumulated fuel evaporating out of the oil on the long drive? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Op’s specific engine is prone to blowing up from using improper oil. Do you put the improper oil in your vehicle? Do you have to pay 6,000+ when op’s engine blows? /media/mediaFiles/sharedAlbum/giphyggt-462.gif This has happened? The main problem with the 2.3L eco boost today is fuel dilution. In 5-7k miles, the fuel dilution drops it down from a 5w30 to about a w20. We’ve seen this a lot of 2.3L EB engines. So running super extended (10k+) oil drains could become problematic if your engine is getting diluted heavily with fuel. The counter argument is: Ford knows this. And that’s why they recommend a 5w30 over a 5w20 or 0w20. I find things argument very believable. Why doesn't running the engine at temp for sufficient amounts of time keep the fuel dilution at bay? Obviously if people are taking fairly short trips this doesn't happen but say you only have a 10 minute drive to work each day but you like to take long drives on the weekend, why isn't the accumulated fuel evaporating out of the oil on the long drive? Some of it does. But it still makes the oil acidic. And you will still have some build up in there. “A lot” of fuel dilution is 3%. And that’s pretty bad. Enough your oil would smell like gasoline. A normal oil sample is under .5%. The acid build up of course damages the polymers. Causing the sheering. Let alone the up front dilution. This is why you lose more viscosity on the at temperature side. Not the cold flow side. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 3:51:48 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Some of it does. But it still makes the oil acidic. And you will still have some build up in there. “A lot” of fuel dilution is 3%. And that’s pretty bad. Enough your oil would smell like gasoline. A normal oil sample is under .5%. The acid build up of course damages the polymers. Causing the sheering. Let alone the up front dilution. This is why you lose more viscosity on the at temperature side. Not the cold flow side. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Op’s specific engine is prone to blowing up from using improper oil. Do you put the improper oil in your vehicle? Do you have to pay 6,000+ when op’s engine blows? /media/mediaFiles/sharedAlbum/giphyggt-462.gif This has happened? The main problem with the 2.3L eco boost today is fuel dilution. In 5-7k miles, the fuel dilution drops it down from a 5w30 to about a w20. We’ve seen this a lot of 2.3L EB engines. So running super extended (10k+) oil drains could become problematic if your engine is getting diluted heavily with fuel. The counter argument is: Ford knows this. And that’s why they recommend a 5w30 over a 5w20 or 0w20. I find things argument very believable. Why doesn't running the engine at temp for sufficient amounts of time keep the fuel dilution at bay? Obviously if people are taking fairly short trips this doesn't happen but say you only have a 10 minute drive to work each day but you like to take long drives on the weekend, why isn't the accumulated fuel evaporating out of the oil on the long drive? Some of it does. But it still makes the oil acidic. And you will still have some build up in there. “A lot” of fuel dilution is 3%. And that’s pretty bad. Enough your oil would smell like gasoline. A normal oil sample is under .5%. The acid build up of course damages the polymers. Causing the sheering. Let alone the up front dilution. This is why you lose more viscosity on the at temperature side. Not the cold flow side. More frequent oil changes it is then. At least with the direct injection engines. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 3:53:03 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: More frequent oil changes it is then. At least with the direct injection engines. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Op’s specific engine is prone to blowing up from using improper oil. Do you put the improper oil in your vehicle? Do you have to pay 6,000+ when op’s engine blows? /media/mediaFiles/sharedAlbum/giphyggt-462.gif This has happened? The main problem with the 2.3L eco boost today is fuel dilution. In 5-7k miles, the fuel dilution drops it down from a 5w30 to about a w20. We’ve seen this a lot of 2.3L EB engines. So running super extended (10k+) oil drains could become problematic if your engine is getting diluted heavily with fuel. The counter argument is: Ford knows this. And that’s why they recommend a 5w30 over a 5w20 or 0w20. I find things argument very believable. Why doesn't running the engine at temp for sufficient amounts of time keep the fuel dilution at bay? Obviously if people are taking fairly short trips this doesn't happen but say you only have a 10 minute drive to work each day but you like to take long drives on the weekend, why isn't the accumulated fuel evaporating out of the oil on the long drive? Some of it does. But it still makes the oil acidic. And you will still have some build up in there. “A lot” of fuel dilution is 3%. And that’s pretty bad. Enough your oil would smell like gasoline. A normal oil sample is under .5%. The acid build up of course damages the polymers. Causing the sheering. Let alone the up front dilution. This is why you lose more viscosity on the at temperature side. Not the cold flow side. More frequent oil changes it is then. At least with the direct injection engines. I mean I go 9-10k on my 3.5EB. 90k miles so far on it. But whatever makes you comfortable. The 2.3 I would probably change it every 5-7k. And that is per an actual lubricant engineer who has a ranger with a 2.3. Edit: We of course oil sample these every time. So we know what is going on. With a base line. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 3:53:26 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: More frequent oil changes it is then. At least with the direct injection engines. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Op's specific engine is prone to blowing up from using improper oil. Do you put the improper oil in your vehicle? Do you have to pay 6,000+ when op's engine blows? /media/mediaFiles/sharedAlbum/giphyggt-462.gif This has happened? The main problem with the 2.3L eco boost today is fuel dilution. In 5-7k miles, the fuel dilution drops it down from a 5w30 to about a w20. We've seen this a lot of 2.3L EB engines. So running super extended (10k+) oil drains could become problematic if your engine is getting diluted heavily with fuel. The counter argument is: Ford knows this. And that's why they recommend a 5w30 over a 5w20 or 0w20. I find things argument very believable. Why doesn't running the engine at temp for sufficient amounts of time keep the fuel dilution at bay? Obviously if people are taking fairly short trips this doesn't happen but say you only have a 10 minute drive to work each day but you like to take long drives on the weekend, why isn't the accumulated fuel evaporating out of the oil on the long drive? Some of it does. But it still makes the oil acidic. And you will still have some build up in there. "A lot" of fuel dilution is 3%. And that's pretty bad. Enough your oil would smell like gasoline. A normal oil sample is under .5%. The acid build up of course damages the polymers. Causing the sheering. Let alone the up front dilution. This is why you lose more viscosity on the at temperature side. Not the cold flow side. More frequent oil changes it is then. At least with the direct injection engines. I my be learning here. My wife's 2019 Mazda with the sky active engine should have the oil changed how often? The car tells her but is it right?? |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 3:57:17 PM EDT
[#11]
SuperTech of course!
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 4:01:58 PM EDT
[#12]
Direct injection turbo, I use Pennzoil platinum.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 4:04:17 PM EDT
[#13]
The best oil? Is the oil that gets changed regularly.
All current motor oil is going to be fine, just gotta keep it fresh. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 4:09:40 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I my be learning here. My wife's 2019 Mazda with the sky active engine should have the oil changed how often? The car tells her but is it right?? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Op's specific engine is prone to blowing up from using improper oil. Do you put the improper oil in your vehicle? Do you have to pay 6,000+ when op's engine blows? /media/mediaFiles/sharedAlbum/giphyggt-462.gif This has happened? The main problem with the 2.3L eco boost today is fuel dilution. In 5-7k miles, the fuel dilution drops it down from a 5w30 to about a w20. We've seen this a lot of 2.3L EB engines. So running super extended (10k+) oil drains could become problematic if your engine is getting diluted heavily with fuel. The counter argument is: Ford knows this. And that's why they recommend a 5w30 over a 5w20 or 0w20. I find things argument very believable. Why doesn't running the engine at temp for sufficient amounts of time keep the fuel dilution at bay? Obviously if people are taking fairly short trips this doesn't happen but say you only have a 10 minute drive to work each day but you like to take long drives on the weekend, why isn't the accumulated fuel evaporating out of the oil on the long drive? Some of it does. But it still makes the oil acidic. And you will still have some build up in there. "A lot" of fuel dilution is 3%. And that's pretty bad. Enough your oil would smell like gasoline. A normal oil sample is under .5%. The acid build up of course damages the polymers. Causing the sheering. Let alone the up front dilution. This is why you lose more viscosity on the at temperature side. Not the cold flow side. More frequent oil changes it is then. At least with the direct injection engines. I my be learning here. My wife's 2019 Mazda with the sky active engine should have the oil changed how often? The car tells her but is it right?? I was just about to ask the exact same, Mazda Skyactiv 2.5 with turbo. I'm comfortable with 5k intervals, especially given the turbo and the higher heat and dusty conditions in AZ. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 4:16:03 PM EDT
[#15]
I spent two seconds googling and found this easy to understand article from Valvoline. Take note on what they say they do to minimize this effect and try to understand how that would relate to a noack test.
https://team.valvoline.com/diy/truth-behind-carbon-buildup This and the low speed preignition issue are so widely known features with these engines it tells me you know absolutely nothing about op’s specific engine. There are probably hundreds of threads with thousands of posts of blown 2.3l engines because of the preignition issue. Why again are you providing links about a small % difference for carbon in completely unrelated problems and advising that fuel will prevent the issue I brought up? Because you have zero understanding of how op’s engine functions. You’re conflating your knowledge of oil with knowledge of this specific application. Common mistake amongst “experts”. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 4:19:14 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It does directly affect that… but okay. ILSAC GF2 addressed exactly what you’re concerned about… in 1996. Deposits have to be under 35mg per ASTM D6335. Hasn’t changed. Also Dexos doesn’t address the teost test at all. I just checked the handbook. If gf2 addressed the issue in 1996 then why is the problem occurring 20 years later in all direct injection only engines? I never said dexos addresses the carbon on intake valves issue. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 4:21:35 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Wally world Supertech full syn!  I actually ran that in my cars and did Blackstone analysis on it. It was fine, but Foxtrot08 still made fun of me  
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 4:22:27 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I mean I go 9-10k on my 3.5EB. 90k miles so far on it. But whatever makes you comfortable. The 2.3 I would probably change it every 5-7k. And that is per an actual lubricant engineer who has a ranger with a 2.3. Edit: We of course oil sample these every time. So we know what is going on. With a base line. What oil do you use in your F-150. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 4:22:56 PM EDT
[#19]
I prefer Shell Rotella Gas Truck. Used to be less expensive than Mobil-1, now it's a few bucks more. Until switching, I used Mobil-1 for decades, fine oil.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 4:23:52 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I my be learning here. My wife's 2019 Mazda with the sky active engine should have the oil changed how often? The car tells her but is it right?? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Op's specific engine is prone to blowing up from using improper oil. Do you put the improper oil in your vehicle? Do you have to pay 6,000+ when op's engine blows? /media/mediaFiles/sharedAlbum/giphyggt-462.gif This has happened? The main problem with the 2.3L eco boost today is fuel dilution. In 5-7k miles, the fuel dilution drops it down from a 5w30 to about a w20. We've seen this a lot of 2.3L EB engines. So running super extended (10k+) oil drains could become problematic if your engine is getting diluted heavily with fuel. The counter argument is: Ford knows this. And that's why they recommend a 5w30 over a 5w20 or 0w20. I find things argument very believable. Why doesn't running the engine at temp for sufficient amounts of time keep the fuel dilution at bay? Obviously if people are taking fairly short trips this doesn't happen but say you only have a 10 minute drive to work each day but you like to take long drives on the weekend, why isn't the accumulated fuel evaporating out of the oil on the long drive? Some of it does. But it still makes the oil acidic. And you will still have some build up in there. "A lot" of fuel dilution is 3%. And that's pretty bad. Enough your oil would smell like gasoline. A normal oil sample is under .5%. The acid build up of course damages the polymers. Causing the sheering. Let alone the up front dilution. This is why you lose more viscosity on the at temperature side. Not the cold flow side. More frequent oil changes it is then. At least with the direct injection engines. I my be learning here. My wife's 2019 Mazda with the sky active engine should have the oil changed how often? The car tells her but is it right?? The best method is testing. Do a Used Oil Analysis with Blackstone Labs. They've done SO many UOAs on the engine in your vehicle, they'll be able to tell you if your UOA is within spec, or if there are potential issues you need to address, simply from looking at the data from your UOA. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 4:27:16 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I was just about to ask the exact same, Mazda Skyactiv 2.5 with turbo. I'm comfortable with 5k intervals, especially given the turbo and the higher heat and dusty conditions in AZ. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Op's specific engine is prone to blowing up from using improper oil. Do you put the improper oil in your vehicle? Do you have to pay 6,000+ when op's engine blows? /media/mediaFiles/sharedAlbum/giphyggt-462.gif This has happened? The main problem with the 2.3L eco boost today is fuel dilution. In 5-7k miles, the fuel dilution drops it down from a 5w30 to about a w20. We've seen this a lot of 2.3L EB engines. So running super extended (10k+) oil drains could become problematic if your engine is getting diluted heavily with fuel. The counter argument is: Ford knows this. And that's why they recommend a 5w30 over a 5w20 or 0w20. I find things argument very believable. Why doesn't running the engine at temp for sufficient amounts of time keep the fuel dilution at bay? Obviously if people are taking fairly short trips this doesn't happen but say you only have a 10 minute drive to work each day but you like to take long drives on the weekend, why isn't the accumulated fuel evaporating out of the oil on the long drive? Some of it does. But it still makes the oil acidic. And you will still have some build up in there. "A lot" of fuel dilution is 3%. And that's pretty bad. Enough your oil would smell like gasoline. A normal oil sample is under .5%. The acid build up of course damages the polymers. Causing the sheering. Let alone the up front dilution. This is why you lose more viscosity on the at temperature side. Not the cold flow side. More frequent oil changes it is then. At least with the direct injection engines. I my be learning here. My wife's 2019 Mazda with the sky active engine should have the oil changed how often? The car tells her but is it right?? I was just about to ask the exact same, Mazda Skyactiv 2.5 with turbo. I'm comfortable with 5k intervals, especially given the turbo and the higher heat and dusty conditions in AZ. Hers is not a turbo. It's just the whole direct injection thing I know very little about. I have read that I should have the injectors cleaned at the shop as opposed to Techron. I don't know. I have used Techron in her car. But I also paid for the shop cleaning the other day because I'm scared. It's a good little car. So I drank the kool aid. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 4:29:36 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I spent two seconds googling and found this easy to understand article from Valvoline. Take note on what they say they do to minimize this effect and try to understand how that would relate to a noack test. https://team.valvoline.com/diy/truth-behind-carbon-buildup This and the low speed preignition issue are so widely known features with these engines it tells me you know absolutely nothing about op’s specific engine. There are probably hundreds of threads with thousands of posts of blown 2.3l engines because of the preignition issue. Why again are you providing links about a small % difference for carbon in completely unrelated problems and advising that fuel will prevent the issue I brought up? Because you have zero understanding of how op’s engine functions. You’re conflating your knowledge of oil with knowledge of this specific application. Common mistake amongst “experts”. They’re trying to sell you a GDI service in that link. I could too. As I make one. And actually sell 3 different brands. But that’s not the intention of this thread. And I’ve addressed the LSPI issue now in what, 4 posts? I know this engine very well. Very, very well. And I own a few of the 2.3Ls now. You’re lack of comprehension is not my problem. I’m posting factual information, from the chemical companies that do the engine stand tests. And development of additives. You’re throwing stones and linking shit from Valvoline. Which is an investment capital group. That wants to sell you shit. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 4:30:05 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What oil do you use in your F-150. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I mean I go 9-10k on my 3.5EB. 90k miles so far on it. But whatever makes you comfortable. The 2.3 I would probably change it every 5-7k. And that is per an actual lubricant engineer who has a ranger with a 2.3. Edit: We of course oil sample these every time. So we know what is going on. With a base line. What oil do you use in your F-150. Kendall GT1 Max 5w30. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 4:31:27 PM EDT
[#24]
@Foxtrot08
I usually get Mobil 1 High Mileage since all my vehicles are over 100k miles. Is it even worth it to put the high mileage stuff vs regular stuff? |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 4:37:10 PM EDT
[#25]
@Foxtrot08
Going back to you being a distributor for Motorcraft, why do I hardly ever see full syn 5w20 MC oil but the semi syn is so prevalent? Lots and lots of people use the semi, why isnt the full syn pushed harder? I generally use the MC 5w20 amd MC filters for my Expedition. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 4:38:23 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Kendall GT1 Max 5w30. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: I mean I go 9-10k on my 3.5EB. 90k miles so far on it. But whatever makes you comfortable. The 2.3 I would probably change it every 5-7k. And that is per an actual lubricant engineer who has a ranger with a 2.3. Edit: We of course oil sample these every time. So we know what is going on. With a base line. What oil do you use in your F-150. Kendall GT1 Max 5w30. Kendall GT1 Max for my GM 2.7T also? |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 4:39:20 PM EDT
[#27]
I use Ford Racing's 5w50 for use in the GT350 in my '20 5.0. It's supercharged, hence the 5w50. I hope it's good, because it's fucking expensive. I also track it thru Blackstone for grins. It isn't that expensive to do it.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 4:40:16 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Kendall GT1 Max for my GM 2.7T also? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: I mean I go 9-10k on my 3.5EB. 90k miles so far on it. But whatever makes you comfortable. The 2.3 I would probably change it every 5-7k. And that is per an actual lubricant engineer who has a ranger with a 2.3. Edit: We of course oil sample these every time. So we know what is going on. With a base line. What oil do you use in your F-150. Kendall GT1 Max 5w30. Kendall GT1 Max for my GM 2.7T also? Yep. It’s a good oil. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 4:40:53 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted: @Foxtrot08 Going back to you being a distributor for Motorcraft, why do I hardly ever see full syn 5w20 MC oil but the semi syn is so prevalent? Lots and lots of people use the semi, why isnt the full syn pushed harder? I generally use the MC 5w20 amd MC filters for my Expedition. Too expensive. Motorcraft oil is already absurdly expensive. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 4:40:57 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yep. It’s a good oil. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: I mean I go 9-10k on my 3.5EB. 90k miles so far on it. But whatever makes you comfortable. The 2.3 I would probably change it every 5-7k. And that is per an actual lubricant engineer who has a ranger with a 2.3. Edit: We of course oil sample these every time. So we know what is going on. With a base line. What oil do you use in your F-150. Kendall GT1 Max 5w30. Kendall GT1 Max for my GM 2.7T also? Yep. It’s a good oil. heck yeah...I am gonna snag some, I have 7k on the original oil |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 4:41:46 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: @Foxtrot08 I usually get Mobil 1 High Mileage since all my vehicles are over 100k miles. Is it even worth it to put the high mileage stuff vs regular stuff? Full synthetics already have a seal swell additive. So adding more is meh. Won’t hurt anything though. Just more of a cost. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 4:41:52 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Kendall GT1 Max 5w30. Can you tell me where or how to find Kendall oil in the Dayton area? |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 4:41:58 PM EDT
[#33]
Foxtrot, thanks for sticking around and fighting through the noise.
You are always helpful to people, I would really hate to see you get frustrated from noise and decide to go silent. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 4:42:39 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Too expensive. Motorcraft oil is already absurdly expensive. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: @Foxtrot08 Going back to you being a distributor for Motorcraft, why do I hardly ever see full syn 5w20 MC oil but the semi syn is so prevalent? Lots and lots of people use the semi, why isnt the full syn pushed harder? I generally use the MC 5w20 amd MC filters for my Expedition. Too expensive. Motorcraft oil is already absurdly expensive. One thing I did notice was that for the first 1000 miles or so, the Motorcraft stuff eliminated the phaser tap on my navigator compared to other oils, Like Mobil 1 Full Syn regular grey stuff and Super Tech Full Syn. After the 1000 miles or so, the noise was back, now this was on stock oil, I heard heavier weights helped the noise even more. I am not sure why that happened though. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 4:43:21 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Can you tell me where or how to find Kendall oil in the Dayton area? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Kendall GT1 Max 5w30. Can you tell me where or how to find Kendall oil in the Dayton area? I've always got my Kendall from Amazon. Not a lot of Kendall distributors down here for some reason |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 4:44:22 PM EDT
[#36]
KLOTZ!
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 4:45:12 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Full synthetics already have a seal swell additive. So adding more is meh. Won't hurt anything though. Just more of a cost. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 4:45:40 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I've always got my Kendall from Amazon. Not a lot of Kendall distributors down here for some reason Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Kendall GT1 Max 5w30. Can you tell me where or how to find Kendall oil in the Dayton area? I've always got my Kendall from Amazon. Not a lot of Kendall distributors down here for some reason I don't recall seeing Kendall in any stores around here. I know some shops use it in bulk though. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 4:45:43 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted: One thing I did notice was that for the first 1000 miles or so, the Motorcraft stuff eliminated the phaser tap on my navigator compared to other oils, Like Mobil 1 Full Syn regular grey stuff and Super Tech Full Syn. After the 1000 miles or so, the noise was back, now this was on stock oil, I heard heavier weights helped the noise even more. I am not sure why that happened though. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: @Foxtrot08 Going back to you being a distributor for Motorcraft, why do I hardly ever see full syn 5w20 MC oil but the semi syn is so prevalent? Lots and lots of people use the semi, why isnt the full syn pushed harder? I generally use the MC 5w20 amd MC filters for my Expedition. Too expensive. Motorcraft oil is already absurdly expensive. One thing I did notice was that for the first 1000 miles or so, the Motorcraft stuff eliminated the phaser tap on my navigator compared to other oils, Like Mobil 1 Full Syn regular grey stuff and Super Tech Full Syn. After the 1000 miles or so, the noise was back, now this was on stock oil, I heard heavier weights helped the noise even more. I am not sure why that happened though. Motorcraft is made by p66 for ford. Has been for several decades. It’s a very high quality oil. But it’s just really expensive. It’s almost double the cost of my house brand because Ford wants their cut. And they give kick backs to the dealers. As for heavier oils, it just makes your oil pump work harder when cold. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 4:46:36 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I don't recall seeing Kendall in any stores around here. I know some shops use it in bulk though. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Kendall GT1 Max 5w30. Can you tell me where or how to find Kendall oil in the Dayton area? I've always got my Kendall from Amazon. Not a lot of Kendall distributors down here for some reason I don't recall seeing Kendall in any stores around here. I know some shops use it in bulk though. Yeah my customers. I’ll have to see where there is a retail shop down there for Kendall. I am working on putting a facility in that market so I don’t have to run it down from Toledo. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 4:47:44 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted: They’re trying to sell you a GDI service in that link. I could too. As I make one. And actually sell 3 different brands. But that’s not the intention of this thread. And I’ve addressed the LSPI issue now in what, 4 posts? I know this engine very well. Very, very well. And I own a few of the 2.3Ls now. You’re lack of comprehension is not my problem. I’m posting factual information, from the chemical companies that do the engine stand tests. And development of additives. You’re throwing stones and linking shit from Valvoline. Which is an investment capital group. That wants to sell you shit. You know it so well you say good fuel will prevent carbon buildup on the intake valves? Lol. You’re so filled with engineering knowledge you can correlate directly with the correct % change in how carbon builds up in two separate locations in an engine and through entirely different mechanisms? Impressive. Impressive too how you can avoid admitting you were wrong to ignore noack test results for this application. Here’s a good diy post on how to clean the intake valves with walnuts. You’ll want to bookmark it. https://www.focusrs.org/threads/intake-valve-walnut-blasting.124071/ You’ve been tossing stones from the very beginning for no reason. Just like you do in every thread you post in. Don’t be surprised or upset when it happens to you. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 4:47:49 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Motorcraft is made by p66 for ford. Has been for several decades. It’s a very high quality oil. But it’s just really expensive. It’s almost double the cost of my house brand because Ford wants their cut. And they give kick backs to the dealers. As for heavier oils, it just makes your oil pump work harder when cold. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: @Foxtrot08 Going back to you being a distributor for Motorcraft, why do I hardly ever see full syn 5w20 MC oil but the semi syn is so prevalent? Lots and lots of people use the semi, why isnt the full syn pushed harder? I generally use the MC 5w20 amd MC filters for my Expedition. Too expensive. Motorcraft oil is already absurdly expensive. One thing I did notice was that for the first 1000 miles or so, the Motorcraft stuff eliminated the phaser tap on my navigator compared to other oils, Like Mobil 1 Full Syn regular grey stuff and Super Tech Full Syn. After the 1000 miles or so, the noise was back, now this was on stock oil, I heard heavier weights helped the noise even more. I am not sure why that happened though. Motorcraft is made by p66 for ford. Has been for several decades. It’s a very high quality oil. But it’s just really expensive. It’s almost double the cost of my house brand because Ford wants their cut. And they give kick backs to the dealers. As for heavier oils, it just makes your oil pump work harder when cold. That makes a lot of sense, I just thought it was weird that the noise came back so soon. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 4:50:53 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Wally world Supertech full syn! This. I don't do anything more than typical driving. Supertech is usually the cheapest and will do the job just fine. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 4:51:50 PM EDT
[#44]
I'm sure foxtrot has chimed in by now
It's 4 pages deep.  Now I have to search for his posts .... |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 4:52:08 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yeah my customers. I’ll have to see where there is a retail shop down there for Kendall. I am working on putting a facility in that market so I don’t have to run it down from Toledo. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Kendall GT1 Max 5w30. Can you tell me where or how to find Kendall oil in the Dayton area? I've always got my Kendall from Amazon. Not a lot of Kendall distributors down here for some reason I don't recall seeing Kendall in any stores around here. I know some shops use it in bulk though. Yeah my customers. I’ll have to see where there is a retail shop down there for Kendall. I am working on putting a facility in that market so I don’t have to run it down from Toledo. Great, looking forward to that. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 4:52:38 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I've always got my Kendall from Amazon. Not a lot of Kendall distributors down here for some reason I'll look there when my Kirkland supply runs out. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 4:55:01 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Foxtrot, thanks for sticking around and fighting through the noise. You are always helpful to people, I would really hate to see you get frustrated from noise and decide to go silent. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 4:57:01 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Kendall GT1 Max 5w30. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: I mean I go 9-10k on my 3.5EB. 90k miles so far on it. But whatever makes you comfortable. The 2.3 I would probably change it every 5-7k. And that is per an actual lubricant engineer who has a ranger with a 2.3. Edit: We of course oil sample these every time. So we know what is going on. With a base line. What oil do you use in your F-150. Kendall GT1 Max 5w30. And you can get it cheaper on the Kendall's website than you can with Amazon and you get free shipping... @AirRaceFan |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 4:57:25 PM EDT
[#49]
Holy shit @ this thread.
Informative and hilarious. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 4:59:25 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted: And you can get it cheaper on the Kendall's website than you can with Amazon and you get free shipping... @AirRaceFan Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: I mean I go 9-10k on my 3.5EB. 90k miles so far on it. But whatever makes you comfortable. The 2.3 I would probably change it every 5-7k. And that is per an actual lubricant engineer who has a ranger with a 2.3. Edit: We of course oil sample these every time. So we know what is going on. With a base line. What oil do you use in your F-150. Kendall GT1 Max 5w30. And you can get it cheaper on the Kendall's website than you can with Amazon and you get free shipping... @AirRaceFan hells yeah~! |
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
