User Panel
NICE!!!! Keep posting your updates so we can see your handywork when it is done.
|
|
|
Kickass! I am doing the exact same thing started yesterday. Good luck to you and hope your done by Thansgiving!
|
|
|
Long grain to long grain glue joints don't need any mechanical fasteners (pocket screws). Use some Titebond glue and it will be stronger than the wood. The key is to allow for the wood to expand and contract when you attach it to the base. If you don't it will crack.
I like the design you are shooting for. Might have to save that picture. |
|
Quoted:
Long grain to long grain glue joints don't need any mechanical fasteners (pocket screws). Use some Titebond glue and it will be stronger than the wood. The key is to allow for the wood to expand and contract when you attach it to the base. If you don't it will crack. a I like the design you are shooting for. Might have to save that picture. View Quote This is spot on. I didn't see a jointer in your shop, you will want to make sure the edges are straight and a perfect 90 from the face, then titebond and clamp. About ten years ago, I had just finished my shop and had a 9' trestle table on my "to do" list a few weeks before Thanksgiving. I got it done, but seriously under estimated how hard it was going to be to move the finished top around the shop and into the house. That sucker is heavy. Steve |
|
Quoted:
This is spot on. I didn't see a jointer in your shop, you will want to make sure the edges are straight and a perfect 90 from the face, then titebond and clamp. About ten years ago, I had just finished my shop and had a 9' trestle table on my "to do" list a few weeks before Thanksgiving. I got it done, but seriously under estimated how hard it was going to be to move the finished top around the shop and into the house. That sucker is heavy. Steve View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Long grain to long grain glue joints don't need any mechanical fasteners (pocket screws). Use some Titebond glue and it will be stronger than the wood. The key is to allow for the wood to expand and contract when you attach it to the base. If you don't it will crack. a I like the design you are shooting for. Might have to save that picture. This is spot on. I didn't see a jointer in your shop, you will want to make sure the edges are straight and a perfect 90 from the face, then titebond and clamp. About ten years ago, I had just finished my shop and had a 9' trestle table on my "to do" list a few weeks before Thanksgiving. I got it done, but seriously under estimated how hard it was going to be to move the finished top around the shop and into the house. That sucker is heavy. Steve Yeah, no jointer, I just cleaned up the edges on the radial arm saw. They are pretty tight, but not perfect. Would it hurt to add a few pocket screws just for over kill at the ends? I really don't want this to ever crack. Also, the beveled 2x6 that is on top of the legs, and runs across the underside on the top... I was going to screw it into the top to lock it all together. It's from the same wood as the top. I would like the additional support when we have to move it into the house. Does that sound OK? |
|
Good god man, you need a fucking planer like nobody's business.
|
|
Joint lines that are almost flush are problematic. Close doesn't cut it. However, pocket screws won't hurt. I can tell you though if you glue two jointed boards up, let the glue dry and then break the boards, the wood will fail before the glue joint. Really should joint your edges. This can be done on a jointer or with a router a straight edge and a flush trimming bit with a bearing that rides along your straight edge.
If you don't have the right tools (jointer, planer, and a shit ton of clamps) to make your top properly it might be a good idea to farm that out to someone who does. The rest of your table is pretty straight forward. Not saying you can't make the top with the tools you have in hand. If not done properly though it will fail after a couple of years. Beveled 2x6. Drill holes through it that are larger than the screws you're using to attach the top with. Your table top will expand and contract over the years and you need to allow it to move freely from the bottom brace. No glue between the top and the bottom brace. Screw with a washer in an oversized hole. When you move the table, take the top off. Move the base and then reattach the top to the base. If your connection between the top and base is so secure that you could pick up the whole table, it is too secure. |
|
I would build it modularly so it can be assembled at it's destination.
|
|
Quoted:
Joint lines that are almost flush are problematic. Close doesn't cut it. However, pocket screws won't hurt. I can tell you though if you glue two jointed boards up, let the glue dry and then break the boards, the wood will fail before the glue joint. Really should joint your edges. This can be done on a jointer or with a router a straight edge and a flush trimming bit with a bearing that rides along your straight edge. If you don't have the right tools (jointer, planer, and a shit ton of clamps) to make your top properly it might be a good idea to farm that out to someone who does. The rest of your table is pretty straight forward. Not saying you can't make the top with the tools you have in hand. If not done properly though it will fail after a couple of years. Beveled 2x6. Drill holes through it that are larger than the screws you're using to attach the top with. Your table top will expand and contract over the years and you need to allow it to move freely from the bottom brace. No glue between the top and the bottom brace. Screw with a washer in an oversized hole. When you move the table, take the top off. Move the base and then reattach the top to the base. If your connection between the top and base is so secure that you could pick up the whole table, it is too secure. View Quote Thanks for the help. It sounds like you've done this a time or two. I'll do a test seam with the pocket screws and glue. Also in looking at the joints, they are pretty tight ( I'm a machinist, so I'm slightly anal. ) so hopefully it will work. I like the washer and over sized whole idea for expansion. Will definitely do that. Since the top will have a moderately rough finish, along with old holes and knots, I don't think a few small cracks would be a problem if it were to happen. |
|
|
Quoted:
Thanks for the help. It sounds like you've done this a time or two. I'll do a test seam with the pocket screws and glue. Also in looking at the joints, they are pretty tight ( I'm a machinist, so I'm slightly anal. ) so hopefully it will work. I like the washer and over sized whole idea for expansion. Will definitely do that. Since the top will have a moderately rough finish, along with old holes and knots, I don't think a few small cracks would be a problem if it were to happen. View Quote Yeah, once or twice On your test with the pocket screws. Do it first without the glue to see if it comes together nicely. If it does, then take it apart apply your glue and move on. Pay special attention to the top side of your top so that your boards remain flush and level. Test then glue one board at a time until your slab is complete then let it sit overnight for the glue to fully cure before milling. Good luck and if you need any more help let me know. |
|
Quoted:
Yeah, once or twice On your test with the pocket screws. Do it first without the glue to see if it comes together nicely. If it does, then take it apart apply your glue and move on. Pay special attention to the top side of your top so that your boards remain flush and level. Test then glue one board at a time until your slab is complete then let it sit overnight for the glue to fully cure before milling. Good luck and if you need any more help let me know. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Thanks for the help. It sounds like you've done this a time or two. I'll do a test seam with the pocket screws and glue. Also in looking at the joints, they are pretty tight ( I'm a machinist, so I'm slightly anal. ) so hopefully it will work. I like the washer and over sized whole idea for expansion. Will definitely do that. Since the top will have a moderately rough finish, along with old holes and knots, I don't think a few small cracks would be a problem if it were to happen. Yeah, once or twice On your test with the pocket screws. Do it first without the glue to see if it comes together nicely. If it does, then take it apart apply your glue and move on. Pay special attention to the top side of your top so that your boards remain flush and level. Test then glue one board at a time until your slab is complete then let it sit overnight for the glue to fully cure before milling. Good luck and if you need any more help let me know. Good idea. Thanks. -Oh..... and HELL NO on the butterfly inlay. It has to be done by Thanksgiving of this year! But it does look cool. |
|
Nice. I've been trying to dream up something to build over the winter, drawing a blank so far. I have a very small house so I have to be careful about overfilling it. lol
What are the machine tools in the background? Kinda look like grinders. |
|
|
Awesome job sir. Keeps me motivated to finish my work/reloading bench.
|
|
|
Good job so far. It does look heavy, I guess if the Mongal hoards come you could use it to block your door.
|
|
Quoted:
Good job so far. It does look heavy, I guess if the Mongal hoards come you could use it to block your door. View Quote Yeah, I guess I always wanted one of those tables you could flip on its side and hide behind when the gun fight breaks out in the saloon. Maybe I'll have to do some ballistics tests with the scrap pieces.... 9-vs-45. |
|
|
You are going to learn to love that power planer. It is a specialized tool but when you need it, there's nothing quite like it. Questions - Did you over-size or slot the bolt holes in the battens shown in the photo, above? Are the wood planks seasoned and acclimated to an indoor environment? |
|
Quoted:
Might be a good idea to pin your tenons inside the mortises. With the size of your wood I'd probably use 1/2" dowells for this. (random pic pulled from the internet) http://www.finewoodworking.com/uploadedImages/Fine_Woodworking_Network/Image_Resources/Magazine/191/011191006_01_md.jpg From looking at your inspirational picture, it would appear that those joints are pinned as well. Nice job so far. View Quote Along that note, if you do this I would stick with the "rustic" theme and pin the joint as they did it when constructing the old barns. They often utilized "hand-carved" "somewhat rounded" pins in the construction like the ones pictured below (basically really quickly carved pins with bit of a rounded/pointed nose to make alingment easier then they would either cut or just break the excess off the back side. I think that would give a really nice touch to the project. |
|
Quoted:
You are going to learn to love that power planer. It is a specialized tool but when you need it, there's nothing quite like it. Questions - Did you over-size or slot the bolt holes in the battens shown in the photo, above? Are the wood planks seasoned and acclimated to an indoor environment? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
You are going to learn to love that power planer. It is a specialized tool but when you need it, there's nothing quite like it. Questions - Did you over-size or slot the bolt holes in the battens shown in the photo, above? Are the wood planks seasoned and acclimated to an indoor environment? Yes on both. I used pan head screw with washers underneath, oversized the screw holes, and just barely snugged them so they can move if needed. The planks on top have been stored indoors in the guys work shop for at least 10 yrs. The beam used for the legs was outside but tarped, so after planning, I brought them in, and set them next to the wood burning stove for several days to suck some moisture out. |
|
|
|
Something to think of and something I highly recommend for the finish of your top instead of poly.
thoughts on oil finishes Here's an example of what you can do with simple Danish Oil That's if you wanted something with a high gloss. This is a hand rubbed Danish Oil finish. I applied the oil with wet/dry sandpaper starting with 600 grit and my last coat was applied with 12,000 grit. Probably 10 coats total. However, your table has more of a rustic feel to it and subsequently, just slathering on a couple of coats of Danish oil to it would look nice. It will protect the wood from spills and is easier to maintain / repair when it gets scratched from plates and such sliding around on it. Maybe once a year or so just rub in some more Danish oil on it. Plus you don't have to worry about dust settling on the surface as your oil dries like you do with poly. Just my $0.02 |
|
This table looks great. I have some 6"x12" oak beams that have been sitting in my shop for over a decade looking for a project.
If only my house were big enough for a table like that. |
|
Very nice work, and love the old look to it. I think that stuff looks great.
How are you planning on moving that beast into the house? Hope you got some buddies who owe you a favor! |
|
Quoted:
Something to think of and something I highly recommend for the finish of your top instead of poly. thoughts on oil finishes Here's an example of what you can do with simple Danish Oil http://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/g326/Covertness/PistolRack13.jpg That's if you wanted something with a high gloss. This is a hand rubbed Danish Oil finish. I applied the oil with wet/dry sandpaper starting with 600 grit and my last coat was applied with 12,000 grit. Probably 10 coats total. However, your table has more of a rustic feel to it and subsequently, just slathering on a couple of coats of Danish oil to it would look nice. It will protect the wood from spills and is easier to maintain / repair when it gets scratched from plates and such sliding around on it. Maybe once a year or so just rub in some more Danish oil on it. Plus you don't have to worry about dust settling on the surface as your oil dries like you do with poly. Just my $0.02 View Quote I thought about doing a hand rubbed finish like that, but opted for the poly. I have a lot of rough areas and holes/cracks especially on the legs that I wanted to seal completely, and the poly with a brush slopped it in there quite nice. I'm in NE Ohio ( GO STEELERS! ) we have dry in the winter, and 95% humidity in the summer, so I wanted it sealed as much as possible to prevent cracking. I'm using the satin minwax, and I saw that some people use a #0000 steel wool and wax after the final coat has dried 3-4 days to give at a hand rubbed feel. I'll consider that if I need to. |
|
Quoted:
This table looks great. I have some 6"x12" oak beams that have been sitting in my shop for over a decade looking for a project. If only my house were big enough for a table like that. View Quote Just make a smaller project like a bench, or a coffee table. This project has been a blast! You don't have to be super picky about your fit and finish because it's supposed to be rustic. When you plane it and sand it, the beauty of the wood comes out like you can't see in new furniture. |
|
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.