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Posted: 7/7/2021 5:51:13 PM EDT
In need to cut out this bottom section of the Truss
So I know I’ll have to weld up more angle above the bottom angle to take the load the bottom piece was supporting Obviously I’m gonna weld the new angle in before cutting old out But where do I weld in the new angle? Attached File |
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Why are you cutting it out? Is this every truss or just one? Do you/will you have anything hanging from that truss? What type of roof is on the barn? Clean up and organize that place, looks like a bunch of coonasses use it.
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What could possibly go wrong with cutting the main tension member of the truss?!
How’re going to size the welds/development lengths required? |
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Quoted: Why are you cutting it out? Is this every truss or just one? Do you/will you have anything hanging from that truss? What type of roof is on the barn? Clean up and organize that place, looks like a bunch of coonasses use it. View Quote Just one truss the garage door tracks are running into it |
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Don't cut it, find some way for the track to move away from it.
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I'll take "What was the last question asked by the Maintenance Supervisor at the Surfside Condominium Complex in Miami?" for $400, Alex.
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Quoted: Just one truss the garage door tracks are running into it View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Why are you cutting it out? Is this every truss or just one? Do you/will you have anything hanging from that truss? What type of roof is on the barn? Clean up and organize that place, looks like a bunch of coonasses use it. Just one truss the garage door tracks are running into it Yeah, I’d figure out another way. You could weld a gusset plate to either side of the truss, (also notched) and extending at least a foot or so past the notch but I’d engage an engineer. Of course, I’m just a good ole boy GC, I don’t know shit. As mentioned above, this is frowned upon by the propeller head types (and for good reason) |
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How much interference?
What you should do is add a truss on either side located to clear the doors. Just one if it's not too far. If the segment barely interferes, then the truss could be modified with a dog leg and gussets. If there is a ton of interference you could add a chord parallel to the one you want to cut, full length from the lower end to the mid span. I would add two, one on each side to maintain symmetry. (Prevent racking.) The connections to the diagonals will be the trick. You absolutely do not want to cut that element out without replacing the load path. |
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Quoted: Yeah, I’d figure out another way. You could weld a gusset plate to either side of the truss, (also notched) and extending at least a foot or so past the notch but I’d engage an engineer. Of course, I’m just a good ole boy GC, I don’t know shit. As mentioned above, this is frowned upon by the propeller head types (and for good reason) View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Why are you cutting it out? Is this every truss or just one? Do you/will you have anything hanging from that truss? What type of roof is on the barn? Clean up and organize that place, looks like a bunch of coonasses use it. Just one truss the garage door tracks are running into it Yeah, I’d figure out another way. You could weld a gusset plate to either side of the truss, (also notched) and extending at least a foot or so past the notch but I’d engage an engineer. Of course, I’m just a good ole boy GC, I don’t know shit. As mentioned above, this is frowned upon by the propeller head types (and for good reason) Yeah it’s sucks because I’m 8” too low on that truss |
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Quoted: How much interference? What you should do is add a truss on either side located to clear the doors. Just one if it's not too far. If the segment barely interferes, then the truss could be modified with a dog leg and gussets. If there is a ton of interference you could add a chord parallel to the one you want to cut, full length from the lower end to the mid span. I would add two, one on each side to maintain symmetry. (Prevent racking.) The connections to the diagonals will be the trick. You absolutely do not want to cut that element out without replacing the load path. View Quote From the bottom chord i need 8” and the height of the truss is 21” |
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Quoted: Fookin punta https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/277411/22A72D0F-EFA7-47C2-9D02-6777D48C8D4B_jpe-2005466.JPG View Quote Should have done a barn door on a track. |
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Full weld a plate of 1/4 on one side that covers the entire truss for like half the length. Then cut your notch
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Quoted: Should have done a barn door on a track. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Should have done a barn door on a track. yeah I thought about that, I should have because this sort of sucks ATM |
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Quoted: From the bottom chord i need 8” and the height of the truss is 21” View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: How much interference? What you should do is add a truss on either side located to clear the doors. Just one if it's not too far. If the segment barely interferes, then the truss could be modified with a dog leg and gussets. If there is a ton of interference you could add a chord parallel to the one you want to cut, full length from the lower end to the mid span. I would add two, one on each side to maintain symmetry. (Prevent racking.) The connections to the diagonals will be the trick. You absolutely do not want to cut that element out without replacing the load path. From the bottom chord i need 8” and the height of the truss is 21” The next question: Where is the interference? At the joint with a diagonal? Near the center? How wide is the door rail? I have an idea that might not be too obnoxious to install depending on the location of the interference, and simpler than what I suggested above. This stuff always depends on the details. . |
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Cut a plate of steel the full height for each side with a notch cut in it for the track or whatever. Bolt it straight through from one place to the other in many multiple locations.
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Quoted: The next question: Where is the interference? At the joint with a diagonal? Near the center? How wide is the door rail? I have an idea that might not be too obnoxious to install depending on the location of the interference, and simpler than what I suggested above. This stuff always depends on the details. . View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: How much interference? What you should do is add a truss on either side located to clear the doors. Just one if it's not too far. If the segment barely interferes, then the truss could be modified with a dog leg and gussets. If there is a ton of interference you could add a chord parallel to the one you want to cut, full length from the lower end to the mid span. I would add two, one on each side to maintain symmetry. (Prevent racking.) The connections to the diagonals will be the trick. You absolutely do not want to cut that element out without replacing the load path. From the bottom chord i need 8” and the height of the truss is 21” The next question: Where is the interference? At the joint with a diagonal? Near the center? How wide is the door rail? I have an idea that might not be too obnoxious to install depending on the location of the interference, and simpler than what I suggested above. This stuff always depends on the details. . if you can tell in the pic, the top of the track needs to go up 8", it's a bad pic I know. that's what you are asking? |
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Quoted: Fookin punta https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/277411/22A72D0F-EFA7-47C2-9D02-6777D48C8D4B_jpe-2005466.JPG View Quote Get a smaller garage door and frame it to fit. |
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Quoted: Get a smaller garage door and frame it to fit. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Get a smaller garage door and frame it to fit. i need the height |
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What if you put the WHOLE garage on jacks?
Bump it up the 8" and BAM. No need to weld anything. |
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Quoted: Should have done a barn door on a track. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Should have done a barn door on a track. Your idea with a decent length doubled up and notched gusset plate may be the best way. OP, contact your door dealer and inquire about a low headroom track set or conversion and see if they can give you the difference in dimensions. If i remember it drops the spring height from 15" to 9" but I cant remember if it drops the horizontals down as well. Also take mention that the door sits above the track so if you need 8" for the track you'll need another 2" or 3" clearance as the door traverses. |
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I think cutting either top or bottom strut would take all the strength of the beam out. It would basically reduce to the strength of just the thickness of one of the metal struts. Don't do it.
Attached File |
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Quoted: This all comes back to when I told my FIL that I needed to make my poles 15' and not 14', he said, no they need to be 14' View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes |
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