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Posted: 2/7/2024 1:55:44 PM EDT
[#1]
I’ve had to get a hub assembly off my F150 that was almost that rusty. I used a LOT of PB Blaster, a torch, and a 12 pound sledge hammer. I tried smaller (3-8#) hammers for an hour with no success. It took about a dozen hits as hard as I could swing the 12# hammer to get it to start moving - I thought I was going to shatter the front suspension before the hub would come loose, but I did finally beat it loose.
With that one I might be tempted to rig up an adapter plate and connect it with a chain to a farm jack and try to remove it that way, or grind a channel into the top seam and shove a pneumatic chisel in the channel. No matter what method you try, you’re going to need a lot of penetrating oil. |
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Posted: 2/7/2024 1:55:47 PM EDT
[#2]
Junk yard for replacement knuckle and put new hub in it.
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Posted: 2/7/2024 1:55:50 PM EDT
[#3]
You can get pretty surgical with a plasma cutter...
But honestly, take the fucking knuckle off. |
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Posted: 2/7/2024 1:56:34 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryThat assembly is cheaper than the sensor alone. The image made me twitch a little. I have two of those sensors hanging on my parts rack. 
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Posted: 2/7/2024 1:57:21 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It's already fucked. I'd say it's a great time to try it. Who knew that there was a truck with a bad wheel bearing on the Titanic? That shits way rustier than anything I've had to deal with. There are far rustier things out there roaming around. Do you southerners know that rust can eat right through a differential tube? OP: You're going to get it out, even if you have to pull the knuckle so you can get some real force on the bolts hanging out the back. Just come back and tell us how it went. |
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Posted: 2/7/2024 2:00:47 PM EDT
[#6]
If that were mine, I'd buy a knuckle.
If it's not an option, wrap evaporust soaked rags, sit. Then clean it, then kroil, then heat. If that doesn't work, diamon jewlers saw 2 places, slowly, maybe an inch apart and break the race with a punch and hammer. Save the elbow grease, buy a knuckle. |
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Posted: 2/7/2024 2:09:34 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Bolts back in and beat it from the back I like this idea. Looks like, in the pic, that this problematic piece has the bolt threads and the bolts go in from the other side. If so, I'd buy some longer grade 8 bolts with the same thread pattern, and rap on them sharply, one at at time. A good long soaking in Kroil before heading out to buy the bolts. This would work better if the entire piece could be removed and put on a bench. Then OP could whack the bolt heads with a good swing. |
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Posted: 2/7/2024 2:13:08 PM EDT
[#8]
How did you not hear that bearing going out? It must have been grinding bad before it gave out. Mud tires?
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Posted: 2/7/2024 2:21:48 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Replace the truck  |
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Posted: 2/7/2024 2:23:20 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: 20 min. Job with a weld bead with no damage to knuckle, easy That one is ugly, might need a big bead, but it'll fall out when done correctly |
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Posted: 2/7/2024 2:25:22 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Best method is with a tig., more controllable |
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Posted: 2/7/2024 2:28:07 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You can get pretty surgical with a plasma cutter... But honestly, take the fucking knuckle off. |
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Posted: 2/7/2024 2:29:19 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I dual shielded some on a piece of equipment in the bottom of a bore small enough I couldn't get two hands on it. Race popped out. Dual shield is hot as shit What’s fun is if you penetrate and accidentally weld the race in, it’s why only good welders should attempt, love these types of threads in GD |
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Posted: 2/7/2024 2:29:47 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryYes but without the abs |
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Posted: 2/7/2024 2:33:19 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: This or go get a knuckle out of the junkyard..might be far easier in the long run... Another knuckle would be my suggestion as well. |
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Posted: 2/7/2024 2:34:27 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I picked up the 45 degree gouging head for my plasma, you can wash weld out of joints and the heads off bolts with it, works slick. I'd still do the weld bead trick before I tried a plasma. They can get away from you in a hurry Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: You can get pretty surgical with a plasma cutter... But honestly, take the fucking knuckle off. I've only done plasma on a race once. Housing was unscathed   Attached File |
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Posted: 2/7/2024 2:35:51 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Junk yard for replacement knuckle and put new hub in it. That seems like the simplest, quickest solution. |
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Posted: 2/7/2024 3:53:35 PM EDT
[#18]
Quoted: People should familiarize themselves with the welder method of removing inner rings, particularly things like timkin races in blind holes, easy quick method that doesn’t damage the piece I've only seen it done on cylinder liners |
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Posted: 2/7/2024 4:51:54 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What's fun is if you penetrate and accidentally weld the race in, it's why only good welders should attempt, love these types of threads in GD Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I dual shielded some on a piece of equipment in the bottom of a bore small enough I couldn't get two hands on it. Race popped out. Dual shield is hot as shit What's fun is if you penetrate and accidentally weld the race in, it's why only good welders should attempt, love these types of threads in GD I may be missing something here, but when I've welded on a race, I wanted the race out of a machined bore. In this case, OP needs the unit bearing housing out of the knuckle, which is a little different animal. Removing the outer race from the housing doesn't do him any good. Given the size and shape of the unit bearing housing, I don't know that you could weld on it to get it to shrink free and come out easy, since its also rusted onto the knuckle from the front lip. If you guys mean that he should weld beads on the inside of the unit bearing housing, you might want to clarify that. If it won't budge with the powersteering trick and/or beating on bolts screwed in from the backside, and OP doesn't have a torch to heat the whole knuckle up red, I think he should pull the knuckle. If he has a hydraulic press, that would work, but I did a couple of these that were very rusted in parking lots with a sledge hammer on longer grade 8 bolts back in the day. |
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Posted: 2/7/2024 5:04:29 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What’s fun is if you penetrate and accidentally weld the race in, it’s why only good welders should attempt, love these types of threads in GD I usually hit the second wall when I penetrate. That's why I just stick to beating it. 
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Posted: 2/7/2024 5:08:45 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Junk yard for replacement knuckle and put new hub in it. |
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Posted: 2/7/2024 5:12:50 PM EDT
[#22]
Torch and air hammer is my method. That much rot, it may get an entire spindle.
It it's a Ram the technique I was tought at MOPAR school was to use an extension against the back, then turn the wheel with the truck running. The power steering will act as a press. |
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Posted: 2/7/2024 5:16:29 PM EDT
[#23]
Those bolt holes go all the way through if I remember correctly.
If so, screw 3 bolts in from the back almost to the part needing to come off, then thread 3 bolts in from the front side and start putting pressure on them while you heat the part that needs to come off. If that doesn't work you have a real problem, and I'd just replace the whole damn assembly. That said my idea should work, I've done it many times. |
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Posted: 2/7/2024 5:17:59 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I may be missing something here, but when I've welded on a race, I wanted the race out of a machined bore. In this case, OP needs the unit bearing housing out of the knuckle, which is a little different animal. Removing the outer race from the housing doesn't do him any good. Given the size and shape of the unit bearing housing, I don't know that you could weld on it to get it to shrink free and come out easy, since its also rusted onto the knuckle from the front lip. If you guys mean that he should weld beads on the inside of the unit bearing housing, you might want to clarify that. If it won't budge with the powersteering trick and/or beating on bolts screwed in from the backside, and OP doesn't have a torch to heat the whole knuckle up red, I think he should pull the knuckle. If he has a hydraulic press, that would work, but I did a couple of these that were very rusted in parking lots with a sledge hammer on longer grade 8 bolts back in the day. Flange/bearing housing is usually part of the unit you buy to replace, 3 bolt flange and bearing being the complete part |
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Posted: 2/7/2024 5:20:23 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I've only seen it done on cylinder liners Works on all cylindrical metal objects pressed into metallic bores, done many,many myself |
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Posted: 2/7/2024 5:22:18 PM EDT
[#26]
Weld a bead around the circumference inside the sleeve. Then apply air hammer.
If you don't have that torch to the hub and hammer and punch. |
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Posted: 2/7/2024 5:28:34 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I've done a couple of miserable ones like that. Take a really good look at the geometry of the steering knuckle, a fair amount of the time on Dana axles like that you can put in a longer bolt from the back, and with a spacer of some kind put pressure on the bolt from the knuckle/axle housing itsself. On Jeeps you can then turn the car on, and use the power steering to put pressure on the bolt/spacer, and jack the hub out. Heat is definitely your friend, though a propane torch is unlikely to have enough BTUs to do the needful. Before I got a torch, I had some where I had to pull the entire knuckle so I could put it on the ground and pound on a bolt from the back with a sledge hammer.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z5LLtf66tvU I've done this many times. It works like magic. |
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Posted: 2/7/2024 5:35:23 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Those bolt holes go all the way through if I remember correctly. If so, screw 3 bolts in from the back almost to the part needing to come off, then thread 3 bolts in from the front side and start putting pressure on them while you heat the part that needs to come off. If that doesn't work you have a real problem, and I'd just replace the whole damn assembly. That said my idea should work, I've done it many times. It's only threaded where it comes into the metal part with the 3 holes....bolts only have threads at the very end..m  |
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Posted: 2/7/2024 5:37:32 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It's only threaded where it comes into the metal part with the 3 holes....bolts only have threads at the very end..m Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Those bolt holes go all the way through if I remember correctly. If so, screw 3 bolts in from the back almost to the part needing to come off, then thread 3 bolts in from the front side and start putting pressure on them while you heat the part that needs to come off. If that doesn't work you have a real problem, and I'd just replace the whole damn assembly. That said my idea should work, I've done it many times. It's only threaded where it comes into the metal part with the 3 holes....bolts only have threads at the very end..m Bro, I'm not good with textual descriptions and shit pictures. I need to be balls deep in the actual parts and then I'm golden. What I do know is this.... You need a bigger fucking hammer and more heat. |
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Posted: 2/7/2024 5:53:59 PM EDT
[#30]
Surfing YouTube and came across this
 Won't help OP but that's a good trick to have in the tool box. GREASY RAG HACK! Damage-Free Bearing Removal. |
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Posted: 2/7/2024 6:58:01 PM EDT
[#31]
 Finish cutting through the flange at the top red line and cut through the flange at the bottom red line. Beat the shit out of the little piece of flange in the direction of the yellow arrow with a BFH and a big punch. Use a 5/8 grade 8 bolt or similar for a punch. Hopefully it'll bend inward so you can follow it with the punch and hammer and tear a chunk out of the inside big enough to get the rest loose. Repeat on the other side if necessary. |
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Posted: 2/7/2024 6:59:58 PM EDT
[#32]
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Posted: 2/7/2024 7:00:39 PM EDT
[#33]
Also more airhammer. Make sure you are rotating the hub around the same axis as the axle.
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Posted: 2/7/2024 7:16:19 PM EDT
[#34]
I bought a Tommy Puller for Subaru and Ford wheel bearing/hub assemblies. I used it on a Nissan once even though it's not designed for that. It's a bit pricey but your problem would be done in 15 minutes. Even without the hub present I think there's enough stuff in the kit to do the job.
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Posted: 2/7/2024 7:18:34 PM EDT
[#35]
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Posted: 2/7/2024 7:24:36 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Meh, on something that rusty it doesn't hurt. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Because penetrating oil in general is vastly overrated. Meh, on something that rusty it doesn't hurt. Southern fella? Nah, something that rusty ain't going anywhere with all the PB Blaster or Kroil. That needs the Blue Wrench. |
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Posted: 2/7/2024 7:25:47 PM EDT
[#37]
Nvmd.
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Posted: 2/13/2024 3:35:18 PM EDT
[#38]
@leafinthewind
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Posted: 2/13/2024 3:43:35 PM EDT
[#39]
Just buy a new knuckle.thats best when you have an aluminum knuckle and steel hub in the salt belt
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Posted: 2/13/2024 3:52:41 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Penetrating oil like Kroil. Give it time to seep in. Try hammering a cold chisel under the flange of the bearing housing before doing more drastic things. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/145837/20240206_170043_HDR_jpg-3121092_2_JPG-3121128.JPG This and keep applying and let sit overnight. Then heat and pound. |
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Posted: 2/13/2024 4:00:14 PM EDT
[#41]
You e beat on it too much already and peened the knuckle into the bearing housing. Buy a new knuckle and be done with it.
For future reference- there is a air hammer bit that is essentialy a bolt that threads into the ears and you use it on each corner successively. There is also a tool that replaces one bolt and you turn the steering and impinge on the tool to use the power steering to force it loose. Also- heat: early and often. If it ain’t glowin, it ain’t goin. |
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Posted: 2/13/2024 4:02:32 PM EDT
[#42]
Junkyard for new knuckle?
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Posted: 2/14/2024 12:13:32 AM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryBeen caught up in work....gonna tackle it again tomorrow night. |
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Posted: 2/14/2024 12:33:38 AM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Replace the truck  
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Posted: 2/14/2024 12:45:29 AM EDT
[#45]
 
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Posted: 2/14/2024 12:54:08 AM EDT
[#46]
I've done this a million times. You're not going to beat/pry it off. Soak in penetrating oil, then heat, then put bolts partially in from the backside and use the power steering to turn the knuckle - pressing the bolt against the inner C. That will push them right out. If you can't get the right combination of sockets/extensions to put on the head of the bolt, you can buy a tool. Like this - https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/hub-removal-kit-for-dodge
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Posted: 2/14/2024 1:12:08 AM EDT
[#47]
Don’t ever use penetrating oil. Bigger hammer is always the solution.
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Posted: 2/14/2024 1:40:41 AM EDT
[#48]
Quoted: Related to my sawzall blade post... Old dodge. Shattered a wheel bearing. Like badly. The bearing assembly broke...so I can't do the standard ...bolt through the lugnut hole...method. I'm left with the 3 hole mounting part and the attached interior collar that goes through the knuckle. Beat the crap out of it. Zero movement. Grinder attack then sledge. Nothing. How can I get this out? Even removing the knuckle and pressing the bearing out won't work because the bearing isn't there to press against. Before grinder attack https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/179517/20240206_170043_HDR_jpg-3121092.JPG After https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/179517/20240206_174234_jpg-3121093.JPG Edit....tried rethreading wheel bearing bolts back through partway and using a sledge and air hammer ....nothing  Heat PB blaster. Air hammer. Rinse and repeat . BTW ... what a fucking rust bucket. Do you park it on the beach ? I'd seriously consider a knuckle and ball joints too . Sealed bearings should be checked for movement on a regular basis to avoid catastrophic failures like this one . |
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Posted: 2/14/2024 2:09:23 AM EDT
[#49]
Op you need the thor air hamme. Not the parts store 401 you are likely running.
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Posted: 2/15/2024 11:25:24 PM EDT
[#50]
It's OUT!!!
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