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Here's a video of a self arrest. Fortunately, he falls into the best direction possible , into the broken trail where the snow is compacted. Falling to viewer's left would be the stuff of nightmares. Falling viewer's right, not so bad.
How the climber falls, the snow conditions, and so forth, these things make for a broad gamut of outcomes, not all of them good. What causes him to fall in the first place? He gets a spike of his right crampon caught up in the strap of his left crampon. A very common event. Though, far more common late in the day as fatigue sets in. In his case, he's fresh out of the gate, so it's disconcerting to see this trip up, though it may be attributed to distraction in talking to the passing climber and briefly losing focus on his step placements. Man nearly falls to death on Aiguille du Midi Arete, Chamonix Mont Blanc |
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They don't have many options for getting him down.
That said the reason they climb is for the danger. I guarantee they were bragging about how they survived the perilous climb while others died. |
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Quoted: I like the one from earlier this season with the body sliding right past a group and then some dumb bitch panicking and screeching about to get herself killed. https://youtube.com/shorts/h8RrAyCsEQI?feature=sharea View Quote "Ma'am, if you would, I would prefer to die without all this shrieking." |
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Most of the arrogant idiots climbing these big mountains are using fixed ropes set by these sherpas and paying guides an ungodly some of money just to say they tagged the peak. A legit climber wouldn’t be standing in line on a fixed rope, stepping over a guy dying then taking selfies on top. If they really wanted a challenge there’s plenty of rarely climbed or unclimbed mountains in Alaska and Canada and other places. Jon Krakauer (an accomplished climber himself) exposed this insanity in the 90s. Or listen to Beck Weathers, they gave him up for dead 3 or 4 times.
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Quoted: Most of the arrogant idiots climbing these big mountains are using fixed ropes set by these sherpas and paying guides an ungodly some of money just to say they tagged the peak. A legit climber wouldn’t be standing in line on a fixed rope, stepping over a guy dying then taking selfies on top. If they really wanted a challenge there’s plenty of rarely climbed or unclimbed mountains in Alaska and Canada and other places. Jon Krakauer (an accomplished climber himself) exposed this insanity in the 90s. Or listen to Beck Weathers, they gave him up for dead 3 or 4 times. View Quote On K2? News to the mountaineering world. Please tell us more about climbing 8000 meter peaks… |
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Quoted: Quote from the link: https://kristinharila.com/what-happened-on-k2-27-07-2023/ "Then at around 2:15 the accident happened. I did not see exactly what took place, but suddenly Hassan had fallen and was hanging on the rope between 2 ice anchors. He was attached to the same rope as all of us, it was pitch black and we could hear him to the left side of us, away from the path. We could also see that he was hanging about 5m down but we did not know if he slipped and fell, or if a bit of snow collapsed below him. "At first, nobody moved, probably out of shock and fear, then we realised that he was hanging upside down and was not able to climb up by himself. He must have fallen almost 5 meters and his harness was all the way down around his knees. In addition, he was not wearing a down suit, and his stomach was exposed to snow, wind and low temperature, making it extremely dangerous. With Lama and Gabriel, we first tried to get the attention of number 1, Hassan's buddy who was before him. However, it seemed he couldn't get to him either. "So the three of us set out to help him, along with number 3 in line who tried to also pull him up, clipping around the 4 people in front of us. Lama put down an additional ice anchor, I attached myself to this one and to the fixed rope as Lama climbed over to Muhammad, who was still hanging upside down. He tried helping him there alone, but it was impossible for one man to turn him around. Then, we made another plan, Lama climbed above and Gabriel went from below as I stayed next to the ice anchor since Lama was now only clipped to a rope to me. This way, we managed to turn Hassan around. He did not have any oxygen mask, neither did he have a down suit. His legs were twisted in an awkward position, most likely because of the way he fell. Gabriel gave Mohammad his oxygen and tried calming him while positioning him head up. Mohammad's friend, who was number one in line, came down to Lama to help us. We had also added a new rope to Gabriel so that we could fasten it to Hassan. "As we were trying to move Hassan up closer to the path, an avalanche went off around the corner where the fixing team was. We got message that they had problems. At this stage, we decided to split up. Gabriel stayed with Hassan and his friend in the bottleneck. Worried for the safety of the fixing team, Lama and myself went forward to see how we could help them. Lama, Gabriel, the friend and me spent 1,5 hours in the bottleneck trying to pull him up before the avalanche and distress call from the fixing team. "When we got in contact with the fixing team we realised they were okay. Lama continued to the front and I stayed behind and asked the Sherpas if they were turning around. They said yes, and as we understood it that meant there was more help going to Hassan. We decided to continue forward as too many people in the bottleneck would make it more dangerous for a rescue. Considering the amount of people that stayed behind and that had turned around, I believed Hassan would be getting all the help he could, and that he would be able to get down. We did not fully understand the gravity of everything that happened until later. "Back in the bottle neck, Gabriel had managed to make a pulling system with 3 anchors and a rope, and Hassan's friend was helping Gabriel to pull Hassan up, little by little. As they did, people were crossing them, trying to get away from the dangerous bottleneck that lies at 8200m. Everyone was exhausted, especially Gabriel who had been pulling and helping Hassan for so long. Luckily Halung Dorchi Sherpa from 8K came to help with the last meters, to pull Muhammad up to a little snow shelf in the bottleneck. Gabriel gave, again, his oxygen to Muhammad. He also gave him hot water and tried to warm his body as best as he could. We don't know why, but Muhammad was not wearing gloves, so Gabriel also tried to warm his hands. "For an hour more, Gabriel stayed and tried to help. All he could do was to stay with him and talk to him. At some point, Gabriel had almost no oxygen left and realised that if he himself wanted to come home that day, he needed to fetch more oxygen. He had to go up in order to get one as he knew his Sherpa had an extra bottle, but was much higher up. In total, I think Gabriel spent almost 2,5h with Hassan in the bottleneck while people were passing by. I don't think people understood the gravity of what was happening with Hassan as they were climbing, and that is why we see they are stepping over him to reach safety on the other side. "Gabriel stayed with them as long as he could before he had to leave to get more oxygen for his own safety. This was very very traumatic, for everyone involved and I can only imagine the physical and mental strength it took for Gabriel to do something so heroic and kind. "MingTemba, Makhpa, Lama, Nima and myself were still climbing up and we didn't know what had happened behind us, but we saw people catching up. We heard that Hassan was getting all the help he could. Very soon after we reached the summit, Gabriel joined us. I asked him if they got Hassan up and he had said yes. I asked if he was alive, and Gabriel said that he was, but that he was in a very difficult situation. We understood that he might not make it down. It was heart-breaking. It was only when we came back down that we saw that Hassan had passed and we were ourselves, in no shape to carry his body down. You need 6 people to carry a person down, especially in dangerous areas. However, the bottleneck is so narrow that you can only fit one person in front and one behind the person being helped. In this case, it was impossible to safely carry Hassan down. "Back in Base Camp, we heard that people thought no one had helped him but we had. We had done our best, especially Gabriel. It is truly tragic what happened, and I feel very strongly for the family. If anything, I hope we can learn something from this tragedy. Everyone that goes up a summit needs proper training, proper equipment and proper guidance. From what I understood, Hassan was not properly equipped to take on an 8000m summit. What happened is in no way his fault, but it shows the importance of taking all of the possible precautions so that we can help ourselves and others." View Quote If he wasn’t properly equipped it was his own fault. If you are climbing, you are responsible for your own climb. |
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If this is from inexperience and being ill-equipped, responsibility falls on the guide or permit holder who assigned Hassan to work the upper slopes.
This was a large push, multiple teams, so it's possible Hassan was assigned to fix ropes or shuttle bottles by another team, other than Harila's team. Whoever assigned this man to this work would be absolutely responsible for matters of qualification and equipment. It's not that Hassan is risking his life, his assignment risks the lives of everyone in that queue, and everyone on that particular fixed line most notably. If he was an individual party, that's one thing, but we know that he was working for someone. And whoever that someone is, that's where responsibility rests. |
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Quoted: On K2? News to the mountaineering world. Please tell us more about climbing 8000 meter peaks… View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Most of the arrogant idiots climbing these big mountains are using fixed ropes set by these sherpas and paying guides an ungodly some of money just to say they tagged the peak. A legit climber wouldn’t be standing in line on a fixed rope, stepping over a guy dying then taking selfies on top. If they really wanted a challenge there’s plenty of rarely climbed or unclimbed mountains in Alaska and Canada and other places. Jon Krakauer (an accomplished climber himself) exposed this insanity in the 90s. Or listen to Beck Weathers, they gave him up for dead 3 or 4 times. On K2? News to the mountaineering world. Please tell us more about climbing 8000 meter peaks… JohnnyLoco is largely correct. |
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Quoted: If this is from inexperience and being ill-equipped, responsibility falls on the guide or permit holder who assigned Hassan to work the upper slopes. This was a large push, multiple teams, so it's possible Hassan was assigned to fix ropes or shuttle bottles by another team, other than Harila's team. Whoever assigned this man to this work would be absolutely responsible for matters of qualification and equipment. It's not that Hassan is risking his life, his assignment risks the lives of everyone in that queue, and everyone on that particular fixed line most notably. If he was an individual party, that's one thing, but we know that he was working for someone. And whoever that someone is, that's where responsibility rests. View Quote It’s already been addressed here. He wasn’t on a line fixing team and he was told by others that he did not have the proper equipment to ascend beyond his station. Good thing he only killed himself and didn’t take a rescue party with him. |
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Quoted: Most of the arrogant idiots climbing these big mountains are using fixed ropes set by these sherpas and paying guides an ungodly some of money just to say they tagged the peak. A legit climber wouldn’t be standing in line on a fixed rope, stepping over a guy dying then taking selfies on top. If they really wanted a challenge there’s plenty of rarely climbed or unclimbed mountains in Alaska and Canada and other places. Jon Krakauer (an accomplished climber himself) exposed this insanity in the 90s. Or listen to Beck Weathers, they gave him up for dead 3 or 4 times. View Quote 8000 meter peaks don’t exist in Canada or Alaska. |
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Quoted: It’s already been addressed here. He wasn’t on a line fixing team and he was told by others that he did not have the proper equipment to ascend beyond his station. Good thing he only killed himself and didn’t take a rescue party with him. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: It’s already been addressed here. He wasn’t on a line fixing team and he was told by others that he did not have the proper equipment to ascend beyond his station. Good thing he only killed himself and didn’t take a rescue party with him. Hassan was an employee of Lela Peak Expedition. Alex Abramov’s Seven Summit Club assigned him to assist the rope fixers during the summit push. “Before the summit push, all companies provide [workers] to join the rope-fixing team,” Abramov told ExplorersWeb. “We contributed with three Pakistani HAPs. Hassan was one of them. https://explorersweb.com/k2-last-three-hours-muhammad-hassans-life |
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Quoted: This story isn’t adding up. How was he assigned as someone experienced enough to be trusted to fix ropes, but ill equipped to make the climb? View Quote Bodies evidently needed to be supplied, he was one of the ones supplied for some reason. Only he and the folks that sent him know why. With the competitive nature of the jobs that folks have mentioned he may have seen an opportunity to show his abilites and died trying. Certainly sounds like he had shit 'gear' but I reckon even experienced folks die up there with the best available gucci gear from time to time. It's an unforgiving environment and if you catch a bad break your fooked. |
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If only there were some way to avoid dying from an injury on an uninhabited mountain
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Social Media and the Narcissism it feeds is the downfall of our society.
The Attention Whore Selfie is more important than the human life that made their trek possible. First World people need a frickin' wake up call. |
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Quoted: Bodies evidently needed to be supplied, he was one of the ones supplied for some reason. Only he and the folks that sent him know why. With the competitive nature of the jobs that folks have mentioned he may have seen an opportunity to show his abilites and died trying. Certainly sounds like he had shit 'gear' but I reckon even experienced folks die up there with the best available gucci gear from time to time. It's an unforgiving environment and if you catch a bad break your fooked. View Quote Probably another low rent shady expedition group. The same type of guys that will steal other team’s O2 and gear at the advanced base camps. |
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When asked about Hassan’s apparent lack of equipment, Mr Syed said the expedition company pays money for porters to buy gear, and that Hassan was paid the agreed-upon amount.
Mr Flaemig alleged in an interview with the Austrian newspaper Der Standard that Hassan had no high-altitude experience. The German climber added: “He wasn’t equipped properly. He did not have experience. “He was a base camp porter and for the first time was picked to be a high-altitude porter. He wasn’t qualified for this.” Asked about Hassan’s gear, Ms Harila said that he did not wear a down suit and he didn’t have gloves, nor did he have oxygen Another version of the story. |
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Quoted: When asked about Hassan’s apparent lack of equipment, Mr Syed said the expedition company pays money for porters to buy gear, and that Hassan was paid the agreed-upon amount. Mr Flaemig alleged in an interview with the Austrian newspaper Der Standard that Hassan had no high-altitude experience. The German climber added: “He wasn’t equipped properly. He did not have experience. “He was a base camp porter and for the first time was picked to be a high-altitude porter. He wasn’t qualified for this.” Asked about Hassan’s gear, Ms Harila said that he did not wear a down suit and he didn’t have gloves, nor did he have oxygen Another version of the story. View Quote If he truly did not have any down pants/jacket or gloves, then his death was a forgone conclusion. |
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Quoted: When asked about Hassan’s apparent lack of equipment, Mr Syed said the expedition company pays money for porters to buy gear, and that Hassan was paid the agreed-upon amount. Mr Flaemig alleged in an interview with the Austrian newspaper Der Standard that Hassan had no high-altitude experience. The German climber added: “He wasn’t equipped properly. He did not have experience. “He was a base camp porter and for the first time was picked to be a high-altitude porter. He wasn’t qualified for this.” Asked about Hassan’s gear, Ms Harila said that he did not wear a down suit and he didn’t have gloves, nor did he have oxygen Another version of the story. View Quote Pretty much as I suspected. He wasn't qualified, he wasn't prepared, he was warned, he was told to go back, he didn't, he died. |
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Quoted: Pretty much as I suspected. He wasn't qualified, he wasn't prepared, he was warned, he was told to go back, he didn't, he died. View Quote I’m sure there’s more to the story but the actions of the climbers who stepped over him while he was still alive is inexcusable. He’s still a human life and who knows if he was pressured to go up there or just trying to make more money for his family, etc. |
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Quoted: I’m sure there’s more to the story but the actions of the climbers who stepped over him while he was still alive is inexcusable. He’s still a human life and who knows if he was pressured to go up there or just trying to make more money for his family, etc. View Quote dude... are you that dense? I've been reading about Climbing K2 since middle school. there are bodies littered all over the mountain. they cannot be brought down. its the most unforgiving environment in the world. several posters have laid this information out, in very simple sentences and you fail to comprehend any of it- instead working on the emotional droning of a 40 year old crazy cat lady who has never left San Antonio. |
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Quoted: I’m sure there’s more to the story but the actions of the climbers who stepped over him while he was still alive is inexcusable. He’s still a human life and who knows if he was pressured to go up there or just trying to make more money for his family, etc. View Quote Feel free to head over there and preposition yourself on the mountains so you can help those in need. It's the right thing to do... |
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Quoted: dude... are you that dense? I've been reading about Climbing K2 since middle school. there are bodies littered all over the mountain. they cannot be brought down. its the most unforgiving environment in the world. several posters have laid this information out, in very simple sentences and you fail to comprehend any of it- instead working on the emotional droning of a 40 year old crazy cat lady who has never left San Antonio. View Quote I’m talking about when he was still alive. They abandoned any effort to save him or rally a rescue mission. How many turned around to get help or said it would be in bad taste and disrespectful to continue on the summit climb with him dying there? Did you read about the 1939 and1953 American expeditions where they attempted to rescue their teammates on K2? You don’t know what you’re talking about. |
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Quoted: Feel free to head over there and preposition yourself on the mountains so you can help those in need. It's the right thing to do... View Quote If I was there I would, but we’re talking about people basically leaving someone to die so they can make their summit attempt, which wasn’t even as bad as Everest ‘96 when people were descending and trying to save themselves from imminent death, and even then several lost their lives trying to save other climbers. |
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Quoted: I’m talking about when he was still alive. They abandoned any effort to save him or rally a rescue mission. How many turned around to get help or said it would be in bad taste and disrespectful to continue on the summit climb with him dying there? Did you read about the 1939 and1953 American expeditions where they attempted to rescue their teammates on K2? You don’t know what you’re talking about. View Quote alive or dead. no one is carrying you down. if you can't make it on your own.... you will be known as Red Coat or Blue Glove. his name will be PakiNoGlove the situation is sad.. horrible and insane to begin with. but you buy the ticket... you ride the ride. he should have never been allowed above Base Camp. that was his Jam. |
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Quoted: alive or dead. no one is carrying you down. if you can't make it on your own.... you will be known as Red Coat or Blue Glove. his name will be PakiNoGlove the situation is sad.. horrible and insane to begin with. but you buy the ticket... you ride the ride. he should have never been allowed above Base Camp. that was his Jam. View Quote I get it, at that altitude he’s not getting carried out. It just looks bad on their part to continue the summit push, basically stepping over him while he’s dying. They’re freaking crazy anyway, other reputable teams pulled out saying the conditions were too dangerous to climb. |
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Quoted: I get it, at that altitude he’s not getting carried out. It just looks bad on their part to continue the summit push, basically stepping over him while he’s dying. They’re freaking crazy anyway, other reputable teams pulled out saying the conditions were too dangerous to climb. View Quote And they didn't set any records, and people will still die up there. if you truly feel that strongly about it maybe you should start rounding up used cold weather gear and send it over to these working folks that can use it. it may not make it past customs before being pilfered but it would be a constructive attempt. |
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Quoted: I am betting it's a mitten or some piece of outerwear that was temporarily removed and wasn't secured. Doesn't look like a tumbling human body at all. View Quote If it was a human, they were dead from G forces anyway. But I'm betting it wasn't. Not heavy enough to impart drag on the snow. A human would fall and slide; maybe tumbling a few times and stabilizing as they fell. This looked like whatever was falling didn't have much mass. |
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Quoted: If I was there I would, but we're talking about people basically leaving someone to die so they can make their summit attempt, which wasn't even as bad as Everest '96 when people were descending and trying to save themselves from imminent death, and even then several lost their lives trying to save other climbers. View Quote If you look at 2008 k2 disaster 11 people died, all in the bottleneck where this guy died, 3 of the 11 died trying to rescue. Three were tangled up in ropes, one guy tried to transfer the load and got hit by ice dead, a sherpa made contact with them started working on getting them loose and ice came down and killed all four of them. One guy fell while on the traverse and died, dude tried to assist below the bottleneck with the rescue, also fell and died. |
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The video does show the man being tended to. Unfortunately, under the circumstances, there was probably very little they could have done for him before he died and it looks like they did what they could. There was no room for a dozen people to gather around him, and the rest of the group had no choice other than to move forward single-file or turn back single-file. Either way, they had to keep moving one way or the other. The personal exhaustion at that point would have made it impossible to carry him (you can barely support your own body) and there is no “911”. My understanding is that helicopters can’t reach those altitudes.
I have trekked to ~16,000 feet (nothing as hard as mountaineering) in Nepal and before you set-out, you need to understand that YOU are responsible for your own life and safety. Proper gear, planning and recognizing your own limits are essential to survival. That being said, you will never find more narcissistic, self-absorbed individuals than true “mountaineers”. That is not meant as an insult. It is just simply a requirement for achieving these extreme ascents. |
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Quoted: When asked about Hassan’s apparent lack of equipment, Mr Syed said the expedition company pays money for porters to buy gear, and that Hassan was paid the agreed-upon amount. Mr Flaemig alleged in an interview with the Austrian newspaper Der Standard that Hassan had no high-altitude experience. The German climber added: “He wasn’t equipped properly. He did not have experience. “He was a base camp porter and for the first time was picked to be a high-altitude porter. He wasn’t qualified for this.” Asked about Hassan’s gear, Ms Harila said that he did not wear a down suit and he didn’t have gloves, nor did he have oxygen Another version of the story. View Quote It’s likely he spent the allowance he was issued buying the cheapest, used gear possible. The rest probably went to support his family. Sherpas often equip themselves with a mixture of high quality and low quality gear, much of it hand-me-downs from previous expeditions. The difference is that an experienced Sherpa knows what gear has to be the BEST and what gear simply has to be GOOD ENOUGH. |
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Quoted: I’m talking about when he was still alive. They abandoned any effort to save him or rally a rescue mission. How many turned around to get help or said it would be in bad taste and disrespectful to continue on the summit climb with him dying there? Did you read about the 1939 and1953 American expeditions where they attempted to rescue their teammates on K2? You don’t know what you’re talking about. View Quote In 1953 they tried to save Art Gilkey, but he died and they left his body up there. Climbing expeditions from the 20s to the 60s were different than from now. You can't apply the same standards of ethics to the two eras. |
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Quoted: I get it, at that altitude he’s not getting carried out. It just looks bad on their part to continue the summit push, basically stepping over him while he’s dying. They’re freaking crazy anyway, other reputable teams pulled out saying the conditions were too dangerous to climb. View Quote Reputable teams make bad decisions too. 1996 is a good example of professional guides making bad decisions. If Rob Hall and Scott Fischer had stuck to their timeliness, no one would have died and all it would have been known for is the IMAX movie. Sherpas have been known to climb higher than they were equipped for or trained for. Mountain support teams make more than base camp trekkers and summit Sherpa make more than guys who stay lower on the mountain. It's entirely likely he climbed higher than he should have because had his gamble paid off he could expect more in future climbing seasons. |
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