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Quoted: Hand plane View Quote But what one? Stanley no1 (don’t have this one- they are very rare and expensive, even the rare repros) Stanley no2 Stanley no3 Stanley no4 - everyone should have one of these Stanley no4-1/2 Stanley no5 - also should have Stanley no5-1/5 (don’t have, I don’t see the reason to have one) Stanley no6 Stanley no7 Stanley no8 Or the Stanley Bedrock versions of the 603-608, even better) Stanley 62 Stanley 162 Stanley no9 block plane - must have Stanley no60 block plane Stanley compass plane Stanley 45 multi plane Stanley 55 super multi plane Stanley 444 - these are quite rare and expensive- they cut dovetail joints like for shelving and dividers And then there are all the Stanley rabbet, shoulder, scraper planes And they are a bunch of analogs from other companies long gone and still making planes of old Stanley copies. Have a bunch of Lie Nielsen, and some Veritas block planes - they are contoured or sculpted quite nice Also the Stanley transition planes that had wooden bodies or soles but cast iron adjusters. I don’t have any of those. I do have a bunch of wooden molding planes and some hollows and rounds - a couple of those I made myself Chisels. Should have a couple good and we’ll sharpened chisels. I use a version of the scary sharp method to sharpen my edged tools. Harbour Fright sells flat granite blocks and you can get wet dry sand paper anywhere. Have a couple very fine wet stones for honing and if a blade to restore is really rough will start with a bench grinder. Saws. A circular saw and jig saw can do a lot but you need some hand saws for when you have just a few cuts to make. I prefer western style back saws. Have some older ones, but a bunch or Mark Harrells Bad Axe saws. But he since sold out the company, they are on the verge of being woke or maybe past that Also need a hacksaw and extra good blades You can get pretty deep on hammers too, just for woodworking. And the list goes on |
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Lots of tools I don’t own because I don’t work on cars. But I do have thousands of dollars of tools from working on ARs. However, a lot of those tools are specialized and can’t be used for anything but ARs and of the tools I have that could be used for other tasks I still won’t use for anything but gunsmithing projects.
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Quoted: A set of 20 10mm sockets. View Quote ![]() https://www.harborfreight.com/10mm-metric-essential-socket-set-10-piece-58957.html i have a dedicated 3/8" ratchet with 10mm deep socket for a new york reload. IYKYK |
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Quoted: But what one? Stanley no1 (don't have this one- they are very rare and expensive, even the rare repros) Stanley no2 Stanley no3 Stanley no4 - everyone should have one of these Stanley no4-1/2 Stanley no5 - also should have Stanley no5-1/5 (don't have, I don't see the reason to have one) Stanley no6 Stanley no7 Stanley no8 Or the Stanley Bedrock versions of the 603-608, even better) Stanley 62 Stanley 162 Stanley no9 block plane - must have Stanley no60 block plane Stanley compass plane Stanley 45 multi plane Stanley 55 super multi plane Stanley 444 - these are quite rare and expensive- they cut dovetail joints like for shelving and dividers And then there are all the Stanley rabbet, shoulder, scraper planes And they are a bunch of analogs from other companies long gone and still making planes of old Stanley copies. Have a bunch of Lie Nielsen, and some Veritas block planes - they are contoured or sculpted quite nice Also the Stanley transition planes that had wooden bodies or soles but cast iron adjusters. I don't have any of those. I do have a bunch of wooden molding planes and some hollows and rounds - a couple of those I made myself Chisels. Should have a couple good and we'll sharpened chisels. I use a version of the scary sharp method to sharpen my edged tools. Harbour Fright sells flat granite blocks and you can get wet dry sand paper anywhere. Have a couple very fine wet stones for honing and if a blade to restore is really rough will start with a bench grinder. Saws. A circular saw and jig saw can do a lot but you need some hand saws for when you have just a few cuts to make. I prefer western style back saws. Have some older ones, but a bunch or Mark Harrells Bad Axe saws. But he since sold out the company, they are on the verge of being woke or maybe past that Also need a hacksaw and extra good blades You can get pretty deep on hammers too, just for woodworking. And the list goes on View Quote |
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Quoted: Wrong....all three have their place. Plus, add a tracer. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Electrical outlet tester and a voltage tester. https://images.thdstatic.com/productImages/bd3e3560-e75e-527c-9fa5-a8baf1d16c9a/svn/klein-tools-electricians-tool-sets-80025-64_600.jpg Garbage. Buy a DMM. Wrong....all three have their place. Plus, add a tracer. Yep, in the garbage. Neither of those are 100% reliable, even at their intended purpose. They can lie to you. Telling you that an outlet is wired correctly when it is not, or that there is no voltage present when there is, will get you killed. |
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Quoted: Yep, in the garbage. Neither of those are 100% reliable, even at their intended purpose. They can lie to you. Telling you that an outlet is wired correctly when it is not, or that there is no voltage present when there is, will get you killed. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Electrical outlet tester and a voltage tester. https://images.thdstatic.com/productImages/bd3e3560-e75e-527c-9fa5-a8baf1d16c9a/svn/klein-tools-electricians-tool-sets-80025-64_600.jpg Garbage. Buy a DMM. Wrong....all three have their place. Plus, add a tracer. Yep, in the garbage. Neither of those are 100% reliable, even at their intended purpose. They can lie to you. Telling you that an outlet is wired correctly when it is not, or that there is no voltage present when there is, will get you killed. lol...it's ok to be wrong. Happy New Year young wrongster. ![]() |
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If you work alone get lots of clamps. They are like spare hands.
Any power tool set is a good place to start. If you do auto work add 3/8 and 1/2 impacts. Large socket set. Basic plier set. Outside that I think you start getting in to specialized tools. |
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A phone to call the handyman
![]() If I started over I'd probably get a 3/8 socket set, 11 in 1, strippers, 10" cobra pliers, 10" pliers wrench, hammer, keyhole saw, tape measure, the Klein multi bit security screwdriver, a multimeter, hacksaw, Japanese saw, punch set, some files, and a drill/impact combo kit with some bits and drivers. I'm sure there's stuff I'm forgetting that I'd want but I likely use this stuff the most I do maintenance work all day and would rather not do tons of stuff outside work so I'd keep my personal set as simple as I can for yearly tasks and not take on projects within reason. |
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I started my own tool collecting at 17/18 when I first really started wrenching on my own truck.
Got a craftsman box and top chest. I think a screwdriver set was my first purchase for the new box (still have them after all these years). Followed by a small craftsman, pliers, dyke, etc etc. As time went on I found I was buying what was needed for the job. The rest is history. I still buy the tool needed for the job if I don't have it. My first big jump into battery power tool is a Makita 18v impact for uses on a 89 XJ. Impact still running like a champ to this day! |
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Quoted: lol...it's ok to be wrong. Happy New Year young wrongster. ![]() View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Electrical outlet tester and a voltage tester. https://images.thdstatic.com/productImages/bd3e3560-e75e-527c-9fa5-a8baf1d16c9a/svn/klein-tools-electricians-tool-sets-80025-64_600.jpg Garbage. Buy a DMM. Wrong....all three have their place. Plus, add a tracer. Yep, in the garbage. Neither of those are 100% reliable, even at their intended purpose. They can lie to you. Telling you that an outlet is wired correctly when it is not, or that there is no voltage present when there is, will get you killed. lol...it's ok to be wrong. Happy New Year young wrongster. ![]() I guess you didn't read the manual. That, or maybe the manufacturer is wrong. Which is it? The tester WILL nOT detect voltage if: • the wire is shielded. • the operator is not grounded or is otherwise isolated from an effective earth ground. • the voltage is DC. • The tester MAY nOT detect voltage if: • the user is not holding the tester. • the user is insulated from the tester with a glove or other materials. • the wire is partially buried or in a grounded metal conduit. • the tester is at a distance from the voltage source. • the field created by the voltage source is being blocked, dampened, or otherwise interfered with. • the frequency of the voltage is not a perfect sine wave between 50 and 500Hz. • the tester is outside of operation conditions (listed in Specifications section). • Operation may be affected by differences in socket design and insulation thickness and type. • In bright light conditions, the LED visual indicators will be less visible. • Do not use if green LED is not illuminated. • Do not use if tester appears damaged or if the tester is not operating properly. If in doubt, replace the tester. • Do not apply more than the rated voltage as marked on the tester (1000 volts AC). • Detection above 50V is specified under “normal” conditions as specified below. The tester may detect at a different threshold at different conditions, or may not detect at all unless: • The tip of the tester is within 0.25” of an AC voltage source radiating unimpeded. • The user is holding the body of the tester with his or her bare hand. • The user is standing on or connected to earth ground. • The air humidity is nominal (50% relative humidity). • The tester is held still. ETA: Yes, even low humidity can cause them to not detect voltage. I'm actually an OLD electrician, and I didn't get that way by accident. Good luck to you. |
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I've got a ton of tools.
But they are everywhere. My next purchase is a mechanics rolling tool cart. Should have been one of the first. |
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Quoted: A respectfully demand a pic or 2 of your plane collection. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: But what one? Stanley no1 (don't have this one- they are very rare and expensive, even the rare repros) Stanley no2 Stanley no3 Stanley no4 - everyone should have one of these Stanley no4-1/2 Stanley no5 - also should have Stanley no5-1/5 (don't have, I don't see the reason to have one) Stanley no6 Stanley no7 Stanley no8 Or the Stanley Bedrock versions of the 603-608, even better) Stanley 62 Stanley 162 Stanley no9 block plane - must have Stanley no60 block plane Stanley compass plane Stanley 45 multi plane Stanley 55 super multi plane Stanley 444 - these are quite rare and expensive- they cut dovetail joints like for shelving and dividers And then there are all the Stanley rabbet, shoulder, scraper planes And they are a bunch of analogs from other companies long gone and still making planes of old Stanley copies. Have a bunch of Lie Nielsen, and some Veritas block planes - they are contoured or sculpted quite nice Also the Stanley transition planes that had wooden bodies or soles but cast iron adjusters. I don't have any of those. I do have a bunch of wooden molding planes and some hollows and rounds - a couple of those I made myself Chisels. Should have a couple good and we'll sharpened chisels. I use a version of the scary sharp method to sharpen my edged tools. Harbour Fright sells flat granite blocks and you can get wet dry sand paper anywhere. Have a couple very fine wet stones for honing and if a blade to restore is really rough will start with a bench grinder. Saws. A circular saw and jig saw can do a lot but you need some hand saws for when you have just a few cuts to make. I prefer western style back saws. Have some older ones, but a bunch or Mark Harrells Bad Axe saws. But he since sold out the company, they are on the verge of being woke or maybe past that Also need a hacksaw and extra good blades You can get pretty deep on hammers too, just for woodworking. And the list goes on I'll see what I can do later today. My shop is a mess. I guess my new years resolution is to clean and organize |
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Work brings skills. Projects enhance them.
When you do the project yourself, the tools end up being free and your overall savings can be significant. This of course assumes a project that is home shop doable without computers or milling machines. I changed spark plugs recently and saved $300. I already had the tools. |
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Mechanics tools (wrenches, ratchets, sockets, screwdrivers, hex, torx, etc)
Air compressor Sanding tools Saws Drills and bits Equipment to sharp blades Measuring devices DVM Wood and metal files Chisels Quality painting tools |
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Aside from every hand tool a available, Id say a big compound sliding miter saw.
Followed by: - Portable-ish table saw -I don't use it a ton, but my Dewalt planer has turned out a lot of nice wood for hime projects -Pressure washer w/driveway cleaning attachment -Cutting torches I’d love to have a TIG welder, but really cannot justify it |
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Quoted: I guess you didn't read the manual. That, or maybe the manufacturer is wrong. Which is it? The tester WILL nOT detect voltage if: • the wire is shielded. • the operator is not grounded or is otherwise isolated from an effective earth ground. • the voltage is DC. • The tester MAY nOT detect voltage if: • the user is not holding the tester. • the user is insulated from the tester with a glove or other materials. • the wire is partially buried or in a grounded metal conduit. • the tester is at a distance from the voltage source. • the field created by the voltage source is being blocked, dampened, or otherwise interfered with. • the frequency of the voltage is not a perfect sine wave between 50 and 500Hz. • the tester is outside of operation conditions (listed in Specifications section). • Operation may be affected by differences in socket design and insulation thickness and type. • In bright light conditions, the LED visual indicators will be less visible. • Do not use if green LED is not illuminated. • Do not use if tester appears damaged or if the tester is not operating properly. If in doubt, replace the tester. • Do not apply more than the rated voltage as marked on the tester (1000 volts AC). • Detection above 50V is specified under “normal” conditions as specified below. The tester may detect at a different threshold at different conditions, or may not detect at all unless: • The tip of the tester is within 0.25” of an AC voltage source radiating unimpeded. • The user is holding the body of the tester with his or her bare hand. • The user is standing on or connected to earth ground. • The air humidity is nominal (50% relative humidity). • The tester is held still. ETA: Yes, even low humidity can cause them to not detect voltage. I'm actually an OLD electrician, and I didn't get that way by accident. Good luck to you. View Quote And a DMM won't detect voltage if the battery is dead, so what? If you are really that old, then you know better. Inductive current sensors have been used in automation over 30 years now. Anything can fail, even your Fluke. I'll admit the wigglers are not allowed for us anymore....DMM only. But for homeowners, they are just fine. My cheap stud finder even has an inductive sensor to keep you from drilling into a circuit. Outlet testers are great for homeowners, very useful and easy way to identify breakers. Wire tracers are worth their weight in gold too, and they are cheap. If you are worried about getting lit up, you are already doing it wrong. Arc flash for everything over 110. Glad I don't do field work anymore. The lawyers have ruined all the fun. Not everything is life and death. To say they are all just garbage is short sighted, and wrong. ![]() |
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I think I may invent an app that does not allow you to call someone to come to your house to do easy projects or fixes. Hence forcing people to learn how to do stuff.
I have a bunch of co-workers that pay ridiculous amounts of money calling contractors and handyman outfits to do some pretty easy stuff. Grass cutting too. Im blown at at how much people pay to have someone else cut their grass, then say they “don't have time”, while they are spending all weekend watching sports on their 85” television… |
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What i use the most.
Table saw Small drill press, Belt sander Wood chisels. 60 different types of woodworking clamps. ![]() |
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Quoted: And a DMM won't detect voltage if the battery is dead, so what? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: I guess you didn't read the manual. That, or maybe the manufacturer is wrong. Which is it? The tester WILL nOT detect voltage if: • the wire is shielded. • the operator is not grounded or is otherwise isolated from an effective earth ground. • the voltage is DC. • The tester MAY nOT detect voltage if: • the user is not holding the tester. • the user is insulated from the tester with a glove or other materials. • the wire is partially buried or in a grounded metal conduit. • the tester is at a distance from the voltage source. • the field created by the voltage source is being blocked, dampened, or otherwise interfered with. • the frequency of the voltage is not a perfect sine wave between 50 and 500Hz. • the tester is outside of operation conditions (listed in Specifications section). • Operation may be affected by differences in socket design and insulation thickness and type. • In bright light conditions, the LED visual indicators will be less visible. • Do not use if green LED is not illuminated. • Do not use if tester appears damaged or if the tester is not operating properly. If in doubt, replace the tester. • Do not apply more than the rated voltage as marked on the tester (1000 volts AC). • Detection above 50V is specified under “normal” conditions as specified below. The tester may detect at a different threshold at different conditions, or may not detect at all unless: • The tip of the tester is within 0.25” of an AC voltage source radiating unimpeded. • The user is holding the body of the tester with his or her bare hand. • The user is standing on or connected to earth ground. • The air humidity is nominal (50% relative humidity). • The tester is held still. ETA: Yes, even low humidity can cause them to not detect voltage. I'm actually an OLD electrician, and I didn't get that way by accident. Good luck to you. And a DMM won't detect voltage if the battery is dead, so what? ![]() |
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Quoted: If you work alone get lots of clamps. They are like spare hands. View Quote It wasn't a box, it was a crate. I got 48 American made C clamps, Wilton/Armstrong/etc, ranging in size from 4" to 20" for $50 + premium. ![]() |
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Quoted: Couple years ago I tossed a low bid on a box of c-clamps at an industrial auction and forgot about it until I went to pickup a lathe I won. It wasn't a box, it was a crate. I got 48 American made C clamps, Wilton/Armstrong/etc, ranging in size from 4" to 20" for $50 + premium. ![]() View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: If you work alone get lots of clamps. They are like spare hands. It wasn't a box, it was a crate. I got 48 American made C clamps, Wilton/Armstrong/etc, ranging in size from 4" to 20" for $50 + premium. ![]() Great freakin' score. I bet you still come up one short, tho'. ![]() |
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Any and all tools he knows how to use (or is willing to learn), has time to use, has a need to use, and room to store. No need for any more or any less. That is different for everyone.
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Basic used often tool stuff:
Sae/metric 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" socket and wrench set, Couple vise grips, Set of crescent wrenches, Set of channel lock pliers, Slip joint pliers, Small, med & lrg needle nose pliers, Linesman pliers, Side cutter pliers, 12" &24" pipe wrenches, Set of screwdrivers, 16 & 22oz rip or claw hammers, 1 1/2lb sledge hammer, 8lb sledge hammer, 12" combo square, 24" frame square, 6" rafter square, Chalk line, 12", 24" & 48" crowsfoot/wrecking bars/nail remover, Chisel set, corded 3/8 or 1/2 drill, Corded 7 1/4" skill saw Corded sawzall, Corded angle grinder, 8" to 10" drill press, 2 or more 50' 14ga, preferably 12ga outdoor extension cords, 16' tape measure, Drill bits, Phillip/slotted bits, Small air compressor and hoses, Small mig or fluxcore welder & helmet, and consumables, Sae/metric Allen wrenches, Teflon, black and grey tape, Wire strippers & crimper pliers, Set of Butt end connectors, 4" bench vice, Several 4" &6" c-clamps, Hatchet 1 1/4lb, 3lb single bit axe, 3 1/2lb double bit axe, 14" to 18" bow saw, Lots more as needed tools |
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Every man should have a multimeter, preferably some version of a Fluke.
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A sharp knife. Not a display case queen.
A good 16 oz hammer. 16 foot measuring tape Decent screwdrivers Pliers, dykes, needle nose, side cutters, end nipper, channel lock. 2 foot level, pocket level. Speed square. Crosscut saw. That would be a good start. |
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Find myself using the cordless Oscillating Multi-Tool more and more.
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Got it home Thursday and put it together. Still nowhere near organizing it.
Replacing a Stanley FatMax and 3 other tool boxes with it and will probably wind up using one of the boxes for extra stuff I rarely use. First brand new box I have bought in about 40 years, usually pick them up used. ![]() ![]() |
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18” bar chainsaw
The largest cfm backpack blower Battery sawzall Battery 1/2” impact with a good no skip inch and metric socket set Small generator |
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Triple-spline and E(external) Torx socket bits. . . . because, you never know when you might have to work on a BMW.
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double flare brake line tool. a good one. cheap ones suck.
actually seriously though, full set of sae and metric gear wrench reversible ratchet wrenches klien 11-1 screwdriver knipex cobra 7" and 10" knipex pliers wrench 7" and 10" Milwaukee cordless port-a-band Milwaukee M18 fuel drill and impact 1/4" and 1/2" drive set of quality sockets and ratchets set of wiha screw drivers good set of allen wrenches and a worm drive circular saw. pretty solid start that will last ( other than batteries) the rest of your life. |
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Quoted: Let's say you were starting over again as a young man, what tools would you acquire? I'm curious if I'm missing out on anything cool. View Quote Good welder, good grinder. Good ratchet set. Good welding hood, good grinding mask. Good respirator. 1/4 body 3/8 head ratchet. Ratcheting wrenches. Good old school clamps (typically petersen/dewitt/vice grip from ebay). Milwauke 2767-20 impact gun. Milwaukee 12v right angle grinder. If I had to throw away all my tools, but keep a few. The above is what I would pick. |
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