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Posted: 7/7/2020 2:19:39 AM EDT
[#1]
Froglube and Slide glide. But have some military from my M-1's also.
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Posted: 7/7/2020 12:58:26 PM EDT
[#2]
I just remembered this. Last year I ran out of 238 and bought a couple tubes of green lucus. I keep a hand pump grease gun hanging by my oil barrels for quick grease ups. The pump had 238 in it before I put the green lucus in. After a wile the green lucus started dripping out the bottom and made a mess. Never had grease run out before. Wonder if it was the lucus mixing with the 238 making it runny.
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Posted: 7/7/2020 1:04:20 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I just remembered this. Last year I ran out of 238 and bought a couple tubes of green lucus. I keep a hand pump grease gun hanging by my oil barrels for quick grease ups. The pump had 238 in it before I put the green lucus in. After a wile the green lucus started dripping out the bottom and made a mess. Never had grease run out before. Wonder if it was the lucus mixing with the 238 making it runny. Yep. That would be a possible side affect of grease incompatibility. @D_man has far more experience in this topic than I do. |
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Posted: 7/7/2020 1:09:11 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Ive read moly grease is bad for bearings as it wont allow them to rotate, they winding up sliding instead? Which is weird because Fords recommended grease for everything is moly grease  So moly is a solid particle. There are different types of moly, of different sizes and different qualities. Most older technology moly greases use larger moly particles, shaeffers 238 even says this and shows it off. The larger particles can build up and cause premature wear. Lower melting point moly can gum up on bearings. Etc. larger solid particles in bearings are bad. Especially high speed bearings and small bearings like needle bearings in water pumps. In a tie rod or ball joint? Yeah you can use moly. Not a huge deal. Trailer axle bearing? I wouldn’t recommend it. |
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Posted: 7/7/2020 2:10:20 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I can't find anything about Engine Shield. So no comment on that. FP10 is owned by Otis now. Weapon shield is just a base oil, an EP additive of some sort (no product data sheet, so just reading the MSDS), a lubricity / anti scuff agent, and a corrosion inhibitor. Assuming they didn't go too exotic, it's probably like a ISO 5 or 10 oil. So nothing wrong with it, probably works pretty well. But I doubt it's anything super exotic. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: @Foxtrot08 What do you think about the FP-10/WeaponShield/EngineShield lubes? The guy who made FP-10 went on to make the Weapon Shield oil. Any thoughts on that? I can't find anything about Engine Shield. So no comment on that. FP10 is owned by Otis now. Weapon shield is just a base oil, an EP additive of some sort (no product data sheet, so just reading the MSDS), a lubricity / anti scuff agent, and a corrosion inhibitor. Assuming they didn't go too exotic, it's probably like a ISO 5 or 10 oil. So nothing wrong with it, probably works pretty well. But I doubt it's anything super exotic. Cool. Thank you. 
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Posted: 7/7/2020 2:26:45 PM EDT
[#6]
Artic Silver in the past... This last time I used Coolermaster, because it came with the heatsink and I was out of AS
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Posted: 7/7/2020 9:42:31 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Mystik JT6 HT is probably the best, widely distributed, moderately priced grease on the market. Here’s the thing about grease and failures... People rarely recognize premature wear from the wrong grease / wrong amount of grease. Why not? Because they chalk it up to something they did and because getting down to it, actually finding what failed, why, is hard. Let’s take one of the most basic farm implements, that a lot of people have. The disk It’s nothing more than cutting wheels on an axle that spin in bearings. Yet people have to replace these bearings all the time. They just chalk it up to a disk being a disk. Using the right grease, with a proper maintenance program, you’d probably never have to replace the bearings. Mower deck spindles. We’ve seen arfcom posts about this. Just peoples mower deck spindle going out... why? Well two reasons. Either you hit something and snapped it. Or the bearing ran out of lubricant. Didn’t grease enough? Well either grease more (clearly not happening) or get a better greased. Excavator pins are probably the big one. Along with PTO shafts in trucks. People who buy a used mini excavator or backhoe probably aren’t going to keep track of the hours they have on it before they need to replace a pin on their front end loaded or bucket. Why? Homeowner usage. People rarely take that much care in their maintenance tracking. PTO shafts on trucks. Carrier bearings and U joints just need replaced right? Well... after how long? It’s not that using the wrong grease will hard stop things from working... Using the wrong grease just shortens the life span. Now given, sometimes it will hard stop. Put an aluminum complex grease in an electric motor. That’s... a great way to spend money. Edit: To continue. Using the right grease in an electric motor will save you energy. Using the right grease in an excavator or truck can make it swing faster, smoother. Or gain fuel economy. Along with extending life of what your lubricating. Greasing is where the majority of lubrication failures happen. Which is why industries have been trying to move away from it. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Lots of farmers, contractors and truck drivers out there. Lots of homeowners with some property that might have a backhoe or a skidloader, or just a tractor. Lots of people who old trucks that can be greased. Or have replaced parts with ones that take grease. All "every day Joe" people. Lucas red and tacky has too light of a base oil. Only lives up to 1/2 it's name, it's red. That's about it. like I said, I'll bite on the science. Tell me something that available everywhere I can switch to. I don't really care as long as it's not stupid expensive and adds some value. but in all the trailers I own(ed), all the buggies I have built, driven hard, and wrecked, all the everything. I can't say cheap ass Lucas grease ever let something fail. Mystik JT6 HT is probably the best, widely distributed, moderately priced grease on the market. Here’s the thing about grease and failures... People rarely recognize premature wear from the wrong grease / wrong amount of grease. Why not? Because they chalk it up to something they did and because getting down to it, actually finding what failed, why, is hard. Let’s take one of the most basic farm implements, that a lot of people have. The disk It’s nothing more than cutting wheels on an axle that spin in bearings. Yet people have to replace these bearings all the time. They just chalk it up to a disk being a disk. Using the right grease, with a proper maintenance program, you’d probably never have to replace the bearings. Mower deck spindles. We’ve seen arfcom posts about this. Just peoples mower deck spindle going out... why? Well two reasons. Either you hit something and snapped it. Or the bearing ran out of lubricant. Didn’t grease enough? Well either grease more (clearly not happening) or get a better greased. Excavator pins are probably the big one. Along with PTO shafts in trucks. People who buy a used mini excavator or backhoe probably aren’t going to keep track of the hours they have on it before they need to replace a pin on their front end loaded or bucket. Why? Homeowner usage. People rarely take that much care in their maintenance tracking. PTO shafts on trucks. Carrier bearings and U joints just need replaced right? Well... after how long? It’s not that using the wrong grease will hard stop things from working... Using the wrong grease just shortens the life span. Now given, sometimes it will hard stop. Put an aluminum complex grease in an electric motor. That’s... a great way to spend money. Edit: To continue. Using the right grease in an electric motor will save you energy. Using the right grease in an excavator or truck can make it swing faster, smoother. Or gain fuel economy. Along with extending life of what your lubricating. Greasing is where the majority of lubrication failures happen. Which is why industries have been trying to move away from it. A lot of those, ag and construction applications in particular, fail bearings from contamination ingress. The best grease in the world won't do any good if it is filled with dirt and water. Why do you say that about aluminum complex greases in electric motors? Polyurea's and lithiums are the goto's there with polyurea being the better option. I don't really see any point in them for bearings but I would think they would do as well as a lithium but at a greater cost. |
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Posted: 7/7/2020 9:43:59 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'll bet my left nut that is rebadged grease that you can get way cheaper without the green label.  Quote HistoryQuoted: I'll bet my left nut that is rebadged grease that you can get way cheaper without the green label. I would guess there is a 50-50 chance it is Mobil Polyrex EM. |
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Posted: 7/7/2020 10:04:51 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I don't have any equipment that needs much grease, except for the occasional drop on a gun, and various tractor parts. So it really doesn't matter for me. Having said that, I bought some blue marine grease to use in a bullet-lube recipe and several years later still have several tubes of it left, and not a drop of oil has leaked out. The lucas RnT that I bought for me grease gun - when I needed it to pump a stuck bullet out of a muzzleloader barrel - got spilled onto a piece of plastic (the gas tank for my generator) and now 3 months later there's a red oily sheen across it around where I left the glob of grease. This tells me the lucas grease might tend to dry out under pressure? Grease is supposed to do that. Think of grease like a sponge full of oil. The thickener is the sponge, the oil is what lubricates. You need the oil to come out of the sponge, but not too fast and not too slow. The hotter the grease is, the faster the oil will bleed out. Now, you need the correct thickness of oil for whatever you are doing. (base oil viscosity) Pet peeve of mine: For how high of a temperature a grease can take, don't look at the drop point. The drop point is where you basically destroy the grease, right now. If you try and operate anywhere near there, the grease will not last very long. |
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Posted: 7/7/2020 10:46:03 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It’s multi-part. PFPE as the soap/thickener. PTFE as the base oil. Additives dialed in to meet its needs. But it’s literally like $2500 for 5 gallon bucket. One of the more expensive greases I’ve seen. It’s extremely heat resistant. It’s also basically fire proof. So it would work great in cans. Just too expensive to use. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: What about stuff like krytox? I've used it where it's called for in science equipment and O2 regulators. IIRC it's PTFE based, with space-qualified grades. It's very expensive; does that cost buy any advantage like long-term stability? Similar stuff - tetra grease. Is it good stuff? I've suspected it is some grade of krytox repackaged but I really don't know much about it. PFTE / PFPE greases are an animal in their own regard. Super synthetics so to speak. Extremely expensive, no super down side to them. Fairly new to the market place. Not widely adopted outside of niche industries where flammability, radiation, or extreme environments (space, deep under water, etc) require something like that. Just too expensive in any large quantities to use or be widely adopted. The cost vs reward curve gets skewed in those situations. In a situation where something is absolutely not serviceable... well yeah. Go for it. Is it a multi part suspension with oil/soap/additive/etc, or a homogeneous material? Given the small amounts needed for a handgun, or even most rifles, the cost isn't such a problem. To put it in perspective I've got two bottles of cherrybalmz that have lubed a bunch of guns, despite the fact I looked at them and estimated they would run out very quickly. krytox might be very interesting if a grade exists that's suitable for running under high temp, high fouling conditions common to suppressors. BTW I've always marveled at the fact oil companies maintain grease catalogs that run to hundreds of pages, which implies there are very fine points to be learned. My old toyota truck called for no less than 4 different types of grease for the drive train. It’s multi-part. PFPE as the soap/thickener. PTFE as the base oil. Additives dialed in to meet its needs. But it’s literally like $2500 for 5 gallon bucket. One of the more expensive greases I’ve seen. It’s extremely heat resistant. It’s also basically fire proof. So it would work great in cans. Just too expensive to use. At high temps, the fluorine-carbon bond breaks and fluorine is released. One should avoid inhaling or even touching these by-products. ETA, PFPE oil is incompatible with, pretty much everything. What ever it is being applied to will need to be cleaned of any other lubricants. Mineral spirits are recommended. |
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Posted: 7/7/2020 10:58:22 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Moly can be counter productive in high speed applications. It’s a barrier lubricant. Using it in a needle bearing application or high speed bearings, you can cause premature wear. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Yep. Polyurea Greases are awesome I will say. What is your opinion on Moly greases? Pros? Cons? Depends on the application. Excavator running a jackhammer? Underground mining machine? Big front end loader loading line stone out? Absolutely needed. For the ball joints on your 1985 Chevy front end? Not needed. For the U joint on your tractor? Not needed. I like bringing a howitzer to a knife flight.  Moly can be counter productive in high speed applications. It’s a barrier lubricant. Using it in a needle bearing application or high speed bearings, you can cause premature wear. We would call it and graphite solid lubricants, but yeah, they can be bad. At high temps, moly can break down and IIRC the sulfur compounds can attack bearing steel and weaken it. In bearings that are going slow and not very hot and not able to build up a film, they can help. |
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Posted: 7/7/2020 10:59:27 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Ive read moly grease is bad for bearings as it wont allow them to rotate, they winding up sliding instead? Which is weird because Fords recommended grease for everything is moly grease Moly doesn't cause skidding, under-loading a bearing causes skidding. |
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Posted: 7/7/2020 11:01:49 PM EDT
[#13]
Quoted: For me TW25B is by far the best grease that you can use. I have not found any other that can stand the time or heat. What do you use ? You haven’t tried Cherrybalmz then. I used TW25B but the Teflon just sucks in so many ways. It can’t stand the heat....you didn’t get it hot enough. |
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Posted: 7/8/2020 12:41:34 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: A lot of those, ag and construction applications in particular, fail bearings from contamination ingress. The best grease in the world won't do any good if it is filled with dirt and water. Why do you say that about aluminum complex greases in electric motors? Polyurea's and lithiums are the goto's there with polyurea being the better option. I don't really see any point in them for bearings but I would think they would do as well as a lithium but at a greater cost. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Lots of farmers, contractors and truck drivers out there. Lots of homeowners with some property that might have a backhoe or a skidloader, or just a tractor. Lots of people who old trucks that can be greased. Or have replaced parts with ones that take grease. All "every day Joe" people. Lucas red and tacky has too light of a base oil. Only lives up to 1/2 it's name, it's red. That's about it. like I said, I'll bite on the science. Tell me something that available everywhere I can switch to. I don't really care as long as it's not stupid expensive and adds some value. but in all the trailers I own(ed), all the buggies I have built, driven hard, and wrecked, all the everything. I can't say cheap ass Lucas grease ever let something fail. Mystik JT6 HT is probably the best, widely distributed, moderately priced grease on the market. Here’s the thing about grease and failures... People rarely recognize premature wear from the wrong grease / wrong amount of grease. Why not? Because they chalk it up to something they did and because getting down to it, actually finding what failed, why, is hard. Let’s take one of the most basic farm implements, that a lot of people have. The disk It’s nothing more than cutting wheels on an axle that spin in bearings. Yet people have to replace these bearings all the time. They just chalk it up to a disk being a disk. Using the right grease, with a proper maintenance program, you’d probably never have to replace the bearings. Mower deck spindles. We’ve seen arfcom posts about this. Just peoples mower deck spindle going out... why? Well two reasons. Either you hit something and snapped it. Or the bearing ran out of lubricant. Didn’t grease enough? Well either grease more (clearly not happening) or get a better greased. Excavator pins are probably the big one. Along with PTO shafts in trucks. People who buy a used mini excavator or backhoe probably aren’t going to keep track of the hours they have on it before they need to replace a pin on their front end loaded or bucket. Why? Homeowner usage. People rarely take that much care in their maintenance tracking. PTO shafts on trucks. Carrier bearings and U joints just need replaced right? Well... after how long? It’s not that using the wrong grease will hard stop things from working... Using the wrong grease just shortens the life span. Now given, sometimes it will hard stop. Put an aluminum complex grease in an electric motor. That’s... a great way to spend money. Edit: To continue. Using the right grease in an electric motor will save you energy. Using the right grease in an excavator or truck can make it swing faster, smoother. Or gain fuel economy. Along with extending life of what your lubricating. Greasing is where the majority of lubrication failures happen. Which is why industries have been trying to move away from it. A lot of those, ag and construction applications in particular, fail bearings from contamination ingress. The best grease in the world won't do any good if it is filled with dirt and water. Why do you say that about aluminum complex greases in electric motors? Polyurea's and lithiums are the goto's there with polyurea being the better option. I don't really see any point in them for bearings but I would think they would do as well as a lithium but at a greater cost. I was being sarcastic. Aluminum grease in an electric motor is a great way to cook an electric motor. Thus spending lots of your money. |
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Posted: 7/8/2020 12:46:38 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What does the application call for? Thats generally what i use. This, I think all i really have is some high temp white lithium grease for barrel nuts. |
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Posted: 7/9/2020 9:37:48 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thanks, that puts my mind at ease, and chart saved. Are polyurea greases advantageous over lithium for general purpose applications? Unless its easy to clean out the old grease it doesn't make sense to switch I wouldn't think, but if it is or starting new, is a polyurea better than lithium? If course then there's the shear stable variety which adds to the confusion. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/148484/EBC42645-8552-4870-B302-42DBB0D18A57-1404194.gif The best answer I can give you is “maybe” On the polyurea / lithium side of things. But probably. But if you cleaned it out, should be good to go. Polyurea Grease’s are getting extremely popular. See John Deere. I’m here to help. Grease is something I really enjoy. I’d like to get my cls stle in grease some day. We’ll see. Thanks, that puts my mind at ease, and chart saved. Are polyurea greases advantageous over lithium for general purpose applications? Unless its easy to clean out the old grease it doesn't make sense to switch I wouldn't think, but if it is or starting new, is a polyurea better than lithium? If course then there's the shear stable variety which adds to the confusion. Ball bearings yes, roller bearings are historically iffy. The newer ones are supposed to be better now with roller bearings. Gears, are out of my wheel house. |
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Posted: 7/25/2020 4:58:57 PM EDT
[#17]
Flipping through my local Big R sale flyer, and they have Mystik JT6 High Temp for $1 off, so $2.99 a tube. Sale ends on the 27th.
https://www.bigronline.com/warren-distribution-mystik-jt6-hightemp-grease-114065.html O'Really that's the price! is over five bucks a tube. |
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